To me it seems that the way to go would be to get plain vanilla rotors (holes not needed for a non racer like myself?) and then get the best brakepads possible to max stopping power and pad/rotor life:

These are the best value rotors I found (2000 XK8):
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ake_rotor.html
Winhere Brake Rotor - Front
Retail Price: $147.25
Your Price: $35.94
Part Number: W0133-1612728
Notes: 325mm - Non Brembo, Non Cross Drilled

EBC Redstuff pads, $87 on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EBC-B...ht_1649wt_1165

Total: $157 + shipping! Stock components quoted from a mechanic was $425 - 300 for the rotors and 125 for the pads. This would probably even give me less stopping power. I'd still use a mech to do the job though.

 

Do the brakes yourself, they are really easy to do.

 

Ditto
Do the job yourself and save another couple of hundred, very easy job.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone

 

Any comments on the parts? Do I need any special tools?

 

Tools: Jack, Jack stands, a couple of wrenches (don't remember size), large screw driver, pliers and that's about all. You might need a BIG hammer because the rotors tend to get stuck on the hub and you need to beat on them to get them free. Also some copper grease to put on the hub so the new rotors don't get stuck like the old ones. It really is a very easy job. There may be a thread or sticky on here that will give you better instructions.

 

Should I get a torque wrench? JITS state 140nm some of the bolts.

 

Watch the brake fluid level too.

As the pads get used up the fluid level drops, and sometimes people top it off. Then when you put on the new pads, and push the caliper pistons back in, this extra fluid overflows from the master cylinder and makes a mess.

I also like to bleed the brakes during a brake job, it's a good time to get fresh fluid through the system. It also forces you to check the fluid level for the overflow mentioned above.

 

Jagosaurs: I'm with you on getting the best pads you can afford. The brakes will last longer, stop quicker (with less pedal effort) and make your rotors last longer.

I've noticed substantially cleaner wheels since switching to ceramic pads on my daily driver car. However, XKR owners and/or aggressive drivers might consider staying with what the factory came with new--semi-metallic.

Yesterday, I ordered a set of Wagner Thermoquiet pads @ $54.99/$59.99 for each axle from OReilly's to replace my original pads with 59K miles. (Note: I just bought the XK8.) A also found $30 in mfr. rebates--bringing my net cost down to $40/$44.99. I've talked with many mechanics that swear by Wagner as having few "comebacks"--and they're just easier to install.

Where I differ from you is in the rotors. I once had a week old Taurus SHO, and I completely heat warped the rotors on a single 25 mile mountain road. I learned the hard way that cheap rotors warp quickly, cost you time and money (in the shop) having the rotors turned, and won't last nearly as long as they should. Cheap rotors are bad investments--as you'll also have to have new pads more often.

Example: OReilly sells a XK8 $64 budget rotor--probably Chinese made. However Wagner rotors are only $8 higher--a small difference for much higher quality.

Sometimes paying just a little more for quality parts will save you many times over in performance, durability and ultimately lower cost on a mile by mile basis.

 

EXTREME DANGER:

ALWAYS PUMP THE BRAKES BACK UP BEFORE DRIVING AFTER DOING A BRAKE JOB!!! YOU WON'T HAVE ANY BRAKES UNTIL THE PADS GET PRESSED BACK UP AGAINST THE ROTORS.

 

I got a complete set of rotors and ceramic pads from R1 Concepts Inc. for my XKR last November. They were having a one day only "Black Friday" sale of 25% off on all brake parts. I'm glad I got them when I did as my brakes are starting to squeal now. They will be replaced and fluid flushed within the next few weeks. I replaced the brakes on my 04 XJ8 with parts from R1 and have been very pleased with them. Damn those rotors are heavy!!!

 

Ditto on the Wagner Thermoquiet pads - they're probably the best aftermarket pad available for the normal-to-spirited driver.

Also ditto on the rotors. If they're not Brembo or made in the U.S. or Canada they're going to be cheesy, in comparison.

Flushing the brake fluid every couple years is also a good idea. However, don't risk breaking a frozen bleeder screw in order to accomplish. If one feels like it's taking more oomph to loosen than it should just leave it be and move on to the next one.

A torque wrench isn't a bad idea but not really necessary unless you have very little experience. Just try to apply as much torque, by feel, tightening as you did loosening the fastener. The first few years of a mechanic's life is learning how much force an object can/should take. That and learning how to repair things that excessive force broke.

 

Haha, found the winhere rotor at auto parts warehouse

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...ust&Ns=price|0

$5, haha, what about EBC rotors?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller

 

But help, can't find any rotors that'll fit a 2000 XK8, almost all I can find are for 97-99

In fact, the only ok quality front rotors I can find are these: http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-GD9...2000&carId=001

$200/pair, not too bad.

 

Couple comments:

I agree on cheap rotors, they will not hold up. Been there, done that . . . on a Taurus. Adequate rotors for a Taurus are not manufactured. I think I paid about $60 for OEM (ea), made in GB rotors for the XK8. About $50 for Wagner ceramic pads.

Might try looking at Advance AP as they have a 15% off an order of $100 . . . plus . . . a $50 coupon for your next $100 purchase promo . . . through March 5. PLUS the Wagner pads are 20% off . . . plus free shipping. Such a deal! (no affilication . . . blaw, blaw, blaw). http://webmail.ellijay.com/zimbra/mail#7

Make sure you get the 325mm rotors, assuming you, most likely, have that size. Both NAPA and O'Rilley had the wrong size in their computer.

. . . and . . . loosen the lug nuts a turn or two and rock the car to break the corrosion between the rotor and hub . . . or plan on using a sledge hammer.

That is a 'couple' comments . . . right?

 

http://www.r1concepts.com/jaguar-xk8-2000-brakes.htm

 

R1 Concept only has the premium front rotors at 262 a pair


Advance AP only has rear rotors

Can I shop for rotors according to dimensions instead of brand? Perhaps I can broaden my selection that way?

 

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto...ml?3593=116498 These ¤56 eurospares seem OK. Some say they are brembo.

BTW, which wagner pads do you get? On Amazon I find three different ones:

Wagner MX688 ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set
Wagner MX810 ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set
Wagner MX394A ThermoQuiet Semi Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set

 

I got a great deal from wwwbrakeperformance.com check them out

 

Before you XK8 owners order these
...unless I'm mistaken:
325mm is for "standard" (single piston calipers) on XKRs
300mm rotors are used on XK8s

Some of you more knowledgeable techs can verify or refute this please.

 

Jagosaurus:

Are you sure you even need new rotors?

I'm hoping that I can just have my OEM rotors turned/resurfaced--since my brake pads appear to have never been replaced. I'll get out my micrometer tomorrow and check the rotor thickness.

FYI: I was charged a total $120 labor on my last brake pad replacement--including turning the rotors on the car. I supplied the parts. Like everyone says, it's just not that bad of a job. I'll also clean the ABS sensors while the wheels are off--a 5 minute job.