Some bad news and some good news:

I had a lengthy conversation with Burgess this morning. The switch used in our cars is an OEM specific switch that was made only for Jaguar.

You won't find the V4NCSE through any distributors, its made specifically for automotive applications and in order for Allied, Mouser...etc to get any they'll have a minimum order qty of at least 500 units. That would be for a base model switch without the Jaguar specifics (terminals...etc)

The representative I spoke with was very helpful and gave me the PN for the closest readily available switch, Burgess V4NST7YC-UL is going to be the best bet for a replacement. Dimensionally its the same but the terminals, travel, and housing materials vary a little bit. You can purchase these through Allied here: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8040026

There will be some issues with using this switch: First there are no mounting posts like on the jaguar part, this should not be a big problem , self tapping sheet metal screws and some small washers should work and hold it in the correct position. You're going to have to solder and then seal the terminals yourself, again not a big deal. The biggest unknown is the switch travel. The "E" on the end of the V4NCSE signifies extended travel. This gives the switch 1.5mm more travel than the standard models. Hopefully the standard switch travel will still be enough to allow it to open and close as it should with the motion of the door latch.

Now that we have a PN and a source, who wants to be the guinea pig to see if we can make this thing work?

 

I do not have a problem with my door switches so I would need an old door mechanism and a new micro switch and I would take on the retrofit. I designed a tool for the F4 and AC-130 gunships I can take this on.. Does anyone have an old door latch?

 

I've got a jacked up switch that needs replacing...any fellow Virginians want to make a weekend project? I'll offer my 2002 XKR door as the guinea pig...



Dave

 

Good researching guys. I'll have to think about what I'm gonna do.

 

Hi Vagear, Gus, Reverend, DavidS, H2OBoy, I called my local independent Jag shop today, and the tech was really optimistic about putting in the Burgess microswitch and doing whatever it took to get it rigged up and working properly! He said he used one for some reason on his Jag many years ago and it worked great! I asked him about the extended travel of the pivot point on the OEM switch and he said it wouldn't be anything they couldn't handle. So I ordered three on line from Allied (you only pay the $25 minimum if you order over the phone) for $6 each, and they should be here end of the week. I ordered extras in case one broke enroute, or the shop had to canabilize one for research before installation.

I should get it into the shop next week, and will let you know what the verdict turns out to be.

Thanks for all the help, Rusty

 

We'll be waiting to hear the outcome!

 

Wound up having to get a new door latch kit because the affected microswitch in the door latch was buried too deep in the latch to remove and replace without destroying the latch itself. Found one for $297 from these folks: http://www.gaudinjaguarparts.com/par...?siteid=214626

Kit included new handles, latch, and cables, etc in between. Was also informed that there are three microswitches in the latch, of which only one is accessable for R&R.

Wish the news was better, but it's my only car and couldn't have it down much longer.

Thanks again,
Rusty

 

well, some guys are going to be pretty disappointed to hear that.

 

I knew when the shop called hours before it was to be ready, that the mission was in trouble.

 

Not to worry! I asked for the latch and the switches and with a little time and luck who knows…. This is not the end.

 

Went out Priority Mail today, Gus.

R.

 

Rusty,
I got the door latch and had an opportunity to check it out and like most things I could not put it down. I took it to the shop and I found the switch that was not working and found the reason why. It was out of adjustment! Yes out of adjustment! I also found out how to remove the switches; however, I had to sacrifice the old switch in order to figure it out. I also found that the new switches you provided do work. I will be making a procedure on a how to when I am done. I will also send it back to you in hopes you may sell it and recoup a portion of the new switch.

 

Jagbits.com has the Door Ajar Switch, OEM part. Jagbits stock no: C2N1908. It fits XK8 and R from 2003 to 2006, VIN 30645 and on. The price is 26.57

 

Thanks for checking it, Gus.

 

I repaired it with your switch and will be sending it to you in the morning.

 

Cool! Were you able to bench test it somehow?

 

Yes! It tested well for 40 times of open and close operation.

I am putting the door latch in the mail to you. My repair should work just fine, I tested it over 40 times to be sure it will work consistently and it did. The only problem I had was finding a screw small enough to hold the switch you provided in place. What I found was a Teflon screw and at that I had to countersink the head of the screw to enable the proper reinstall of the latch. You may want to consider a small pop-rivet to replace the screws. Not sure it is necessary but it would not hurt. I made a PDF on it if you wish to see what I did. It does look like water did get in to the switch area.

 

cool gus! are you going to offer a 'latch w/ switch' part exchange service? You'd obviously have to get a driver and passenger switch to start your little side-bidness.

You rock once again. I knew the alpine DVD update disappointment would not keep you down and out. lol

 

Great work Gus! I'm really glad to see that the $5 switch from Allied works with minimal modification and the lever travel is adequate. I think after soldering and adding heat shrink a small amount of silicone would make that repair as water resistant or better than the original.

 

The switch had to be adjusted and a small part of the arm needed to be cut but that was adjusting it to work in this application. Not knowing the properties of the switches I felt this one was water resistant not water proof. Now to explain that; I had a watch repaired and the man told me that it would no longer be water proof but would be water resistant, I asked him to explain. He said to be water proof it had to be tested to 300meters, I told him for me it would be an unscheduled event and the watch would be the least of my worries at 300 meters and to fix the watch to be water resistant!