I Hate Windows!!
#21
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Some bad news and some good news:
I had a lengthy conversation with Burgess this morning. The switch used in our cars is an OEM specific switch that was made only for Jaguar.
You won't find the V4NCSE through any distributors, its made specifically for automotive applications and in order for Allied, Mouser...etc to get any they'll have a minimum order qty of at least 500 units. That would be for a base model switch without the Jaguar specifics (terminals...etc)
The representative I spoke with was very helpful and gave me the PN for the closest readily available switch, Burgess V4NST7YC-UL is going to be the best bet for a replacement. Dimensionally its the same but the terminals, travel, and housing materials vary a little bit. You can purchase these through Allied here: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8040026
There will be some issues with using this switch: First there are no mounting posts like on the jaguar part, this should not be a big problem , self tapping sheet metal screws and some small washers should work and hold it in the correct position. You're going to have to solder and then seal the terminals yourself, again not a big deal. The biggest unknown is the switch travel. The "E" on the end of the V4NCSE signifies extended travel. This gives the switch 1.5mm more travel than the standard models. Hopefully the standard switch travel will still be enough to allow it to open and close as it should with the motion of the door latch.
Now that we have a PN and a source, who wants to be the guinea pig to see if we can make this thing work?
I had a lengthy conversation with Burgess this morning. The switch used in our cars is an OEM specific switch that was made only for Jaguar.
You won't find the V4NCSE through any distributors, its made specifically for automotive applications and in order for Allied, Mouser...etc to get any they'll have a minimum order qty of at least 500 units. That would be for a base model switch without the Jaguar specifics (terminals...etc)
The representative I spoke with was very helpful and gave me the PN for the closest readily available switch, Burgess V4NST7YC-UL is going to be the best bet for a replacement. Dimensionally its the same but the terminals, travel, and housing materials vary a little bit. You can purchase these through Allied here: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8040026
There will be some issues with using this switch: First there are no mounting posts like on the jaguar part, this should not be a big problem , self tapping sheet metal screws and some small washers should work and hold it in the correct position. You're going to have to solder and then seal the terminals yourself, again not a big deal. The biggest unknown is the switch travel. The "E" on the end of the V4NCSE signifies extended travel. This gives the switch 1.5mm more travel than the standard models. Hopefully the standard switch travel will still be enough to allow it to open and close as it should with the motion of the door latch.
Now that we have a PN and a source, who wants to be the guinea pig to see if we can make this thing work?
#22
#23
#24
#25
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some bad news and some good news:
I had a lengthy conversation with Burgess this morning. The switch used in our cars is an OEM specific switch that was made only for Jaguar.
You won't find the V4NCSE through any distributors, its made specifically for automotive applications and in order for Allied, Mouser...etc to get any they'll have a minimum order qty of at least 500 units. That would be for a base model switch without the Jaguar specifics (terminals...etc)
The representative I spoke with was very helpful and gave me the PN for the closest readily available switch, Burgess V4NST7YC-UL is going to be the best bet for a replacement. Dimensionally its the same but the terminals, travel, and housing materials vary a little bit. You can purchase these through Allied here: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8040026
There will be some issues with using this switch: First there are no mounting posts like on the jaguar part, this should not be a big problem , self tapping sheet metal screws and some small washers should work and hold it in the correct position. You're going to have to solder and then seal the terminals yourself, again not a big deal. The biggest unknown is the switch travel. The "E" on the end of the V4NCSE signifies extended travel. This gives the switch 1.5mm more travel than the standard models. Hopefully the standard switch travel will still be enough to allow it to open and close as it should with the motion of the door latch.
Now that we have a PN and a source, who wants to be the guinea pig to see if we can make this thing work?
I had a lengthy conversation with Burgess this morning. The switch used in our cars is an OEM specific switch that was made only for Jaguar.
You won't find the V4NCSE through any distributors, its made specifically for automotive applications and in order for Allied, Mouser...etc to get any they'll have a minimum order qty of at least 500 units. That would be for a base model switch without the Jaguar specifics (terminals...etc)
The representative I spoke with was very helpful and gave me the PN for the closest readily available switch, Burgess V4NST7YC-UL is going to be the best bet for a replacement. Dimensionally its the same but the terminals, travel, and housing materials vary a little bit. You can purchase these through Allied here: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8040026
There will be some issues with using this switch: First there are no mounting posts like on the jaguar part, this should not be a big problem , self tapping sheet metal screws and some small washers should work and hold it in the correct position. You're going to have to solder and then seal the terminals yourself, again not a big deal. The biggest unknown is the switch travel. The "E" on the end of the V4NCSE signifies extended travel. This gives the switch 1.5mm more travel than the standard models. Hopefully the standard switch travel will still be enough to allow it to open and close as it should with the motion of the door latch.
Now that we have a PN and a source, who wants to be the guinea pig to see if we can make this thing work?
I should get it into the shop next week, and will let you know what the verdict turns out to be.
Thanks for all the help, Rusty
#27
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wound up having to get a new door latch kit because the affected microswitch in the door latch was buried too deep in the latch to remove and replace without destroying the latch itself. Found one for $297 from these folks: http://www.gaudinjaguarparts.com/par...?siteid=214626
Kit included new handles, latch, and cables, etc in between. Was also informed that there are three microswitches in the latch, of which only one is accessable for R&R.
Wish the news was better, but it's my only car and couldn't have it down much longer.
Thanks again,
Rusty
Kit included new handles, latch, and cables, etc in between. Was also informed that there are three microswitches in the latch, of which only one is accessable for R&R.
Wish the news was better, but it's my only car and couldn't have it down much longer.
Thanks again,
Rusty
#29
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#32
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Rusty,
I got the door latch and had an opportunity to check it out and like most things I could not put it down. I took it to the shop and I found the switch that was not working and found the reason why. It was out of adjustment! Yes out of adjustment! I also found out how to remove the switches; however, I had to sacrifice the old switch in order to figure it out. I also found that the new switches you provided do work. I will be making a procedure on a how to when I am done. I will also send it back to you in hopes you may sell it and recoup a portion of the new switch.
I got the door latch and had an opportunity to check it out and like most things I could not put it down. I took it to the shop and I found the switch that was not working and found the reason why. It was out of adjustment! Yes out of adjustment! I also found out how to remove the switches; however, I had to sacrifice the old switch in order to figure it out. I also found that the new switches you provided do work. I will be making a procedure on a how to when I am done. I will also send it back to you in hopes you may sell it and recoup a portion of the new switch.
#34
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#37
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Yes! It tested well for 40 times of open and close operation.
I am putting the door latch in the mail to you. My repair should work just fine, I tested it over 40 times to be sure it will work consistently and it did. The only problem I had was finding a screw small enough to hold the switch you provided in place. What I found was a Teflon screw and at that I had to countersink the head of the screw to enable the proper reinstall of the latch. You may want to consider a small pop-rivet to replace the screws. Not sure it is necessary but it would not hurt. I made a PDF on it if you wish to see what I did. It does look like water did get in to the switch area.
I am putting the door latch in the mail to you. My repair should work just fine, I tested it over 40 times to be sure it will work consistently and it did. The only problem I had was finding a screw small enough to hold the switch you provided in place. What I found was a Teflon screw and at that I had to countersink the head of the screw to enable the proper reinstall of the latch. You may want to consider a small pop-rivet to replace the screws. Not sure it is necessary but it would not hurt. I made a PDF on it if you wish to see what I did. It does look like water did get in to the switch area.
Last edited by Gus; 09-02-2010 at 09:18 AM.
#39
#40
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The switch had to be adjusted and a small part of the arm needed to be cut but that was adjusting it to work in this application. Not knowing the properties of the switches I felt this one was water resistant not water proof. Now to explain that; I had a watch repaired and the man told me that it would no longer be water proof but would be water resistant, I asked him to explain. He said to be water proof it had to be tested to 300meters, I told him for me it would be an unscheduled event and the watch would be the least of my worries at 300 meters and to fix the watch to be water resistant!