Inner Tie Rod Help
#21
If you are able to get a large adjustable wrench on it,,, they should not be high torqued connections,,, give the wrench some quick taps with a hammer that is heavy enough to do most of the work for you and it should spin off. It's a covered thread and like one of the members here said, once free, usually it can easily be turned off by hand.
Jus say'n
#22
It's a very large fitting and heat travels. The steering wrack is full of seals. IMHO,,, the amount of heat you would you need to apply to a connection that large would be a LOT, to make a difference. If you do heat it up,,, extend the steering so the arm/knuckle is as far away from the rack housing as you are able to get it...
If you are able to get a large adjustable wrench on it,,, they should not be high torqued connections,,, give the wrench some quick taps with a hammer that is heavy enough to do most of the work for you and it should spin off. It's a covered thread and like one of the members here said, once free, usually it can easily be turned off by hand.
Jus say'n
If you are able to get a large adjustable wrench on it,,, they should not be high torqued connections,,, give the wrench some quick taps with a hammer that is heavy enough to do most of the work for you and it should spin off. It's a covered thread and like one of the members here said, once free, usually it can easily be turned off by hand.
Jus say'n
#23
I had a really rough time with a Jaguar and the arms BeFo....
When I was really leaning into it, with the arm and shaft full extended, I noticed flexing in the shaft, or maybe it was just a matter of leverage and forces produced by leaning on it with the shaft fully extended than I was comfortable with (considering the rack mounts and seals)... I felt better turning on the large fitting (no heat) with the "nutt" ( for lack of a better word) as close to the rack assembly as possible. I simply didn't want the force being exerted on the extended arm to travel that way into the seals of the shaft/rack connecting point OR on the rack bushed attachment point on the subframe. All that to say - when I turn my inner steering rods off,,, I leave the "nutt" right close into the rack assembly.
Blah blah blah... I'll hush now.
You got it Brother... Sounds like it wants to fight ya!
#24
Not to sound stupid or like a broken record, but you can actually see the flat sides on the far end of the tie rod end against the rack right? I'm only asking because the way your posts read makes it sound like you are trying to latch on to the rounded part. Again not trying to be ignorant, just wanted to verify. I've only ever had to use the clamp type on one of my cars and it was due to the tie rods not having any flat spots. I did mine laying on a stone driveway with a floor jack and jack stands.
The following 2 users liked this post by JayJagJay:
Johnken (03-19-2020),
Timeisrelative (03-19-2020)
#27
Understood... Is there loctite on yours?
I had a really rough time with a Jaguar and the arms BeFo....
When I was really leaning into it, with the arm and shaft full extended, I noticed flexing in the shaft, or maybe it was just a matter of leverage and forces produced by leaning on it with the shaft fully extended than I was comfortable with (considering the rack mounts and seals)... I felt better turning on the large fitting (no heat) with the "nutt" ( for lack of a better word) as close to the rack assembly as possible. I simply didn't want the force being exerted on the extended arm to travel that way into the seals of the shaft/rack connecting point OR on the rack bushed attachment point on the subframe. All that to say - when I turn my inner steering rods off,,, I leave the "nutt" right close into the rack assembly.
Blah blah blah... I'll hush now.
You got it Brother... Sounds like it wants to fight ya!
I had a really rough time with a Jaguar and the arms BeFo....
When I was really leaning into it, with the arm and shaft full extended, I noticed flexing in the shaft, or maybe it was just a matter of leverage and forces produced by leaning on it with the shaft fully extended than I was comfortable with (considering the rack mounts and seals)... I felt better turning on the large fitting (no heat) with the "nutt" ( for lack of a better word) as close to the rack assembly as possible. I simply didn't want the force being exerted on the extended arm to travel that way into the seals of the shaft/rack connecting point OR on the rack bushed attachment point on the subframe. All that to say - when I turn my inner steering rods off,,, I leave the "nutt" right close into the rack assembly.
Blah blah blah... I'll hush now.
You got it Brother... Sounds like it wants to fight ya!
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