Wow thanks for checking that for me! I thought the pin layout was for female so I think that probable caused my problem... meanwhile have managed to get my Autoenginuity scanner up and limping enough to give me the pump code failure! Kinda what I expected but I hate tearing into thing unless they are actually broken.

 

Ah, more data. Good.

I think it would still be worth running through the resistance measurements to try to distinguish a "wheel" problem v. an "abs box" problem. The fault codes are only as good as the programmer who assigned them ... for example: ain't no code for "cold solder joint in the abs box" but that is one of the most common problems.

 

The sodler joint issue manifests itself as a C1095. There are also four addtional codes for each of the four wheel speed sensors. I still plan on checking the wheel speeds sensors (via the ohm meter) because I want to know how to do this quickly if the light ever comes on again.

 

Thanks; I did not know about the C1095. Looks like that programmer was better than I thought!

 

I did check the sensors. Correct pin layout helped Sensors all tested normally. Thanks again.

 

I was getting the messages without any pattern regarding miles or amount of time the car was being driven. I cleaned the sensors and charged the battery. Nothing changed. Then, I turned off the sport mode button. I have not received any messages since.

 

Just to add more options...I just went through this very exercise with my 06 XKR, I finally took it to the dealer to have the codes read, it turned out to be a bed sensor on the left front. Had no problem since, and all the rest of the sytem is really clean now! Be aware that this repair cost around $550 though, the sensor alone was $350! If I had no warranty, I would have just paid the Dealer for the diagnostics and done the very simple work with a used sensor I got from the usuals myself.

 

When you disconnect the hydraulic lines, do you need to bleed brakes after? Or is this all "above" the actual lines so that bleeding is not necessary?

 

Shoot me if I'm stupid but can my car be operated without the module in place? I'm considering sending ABS module out for rebuild but only have this one car. Like i said shoot me if this is dumb, but give me the answer before you do

 

Depending on the year of the XK, but the anwser is probably no, it can't be operated. The ABS module is on the CAN network. If it doesn't see the module in line, the car will not operated, Although i'm not 100% sure. Just disconnect the module and see if the car runs.

 

You can undo the module from the hydraulic unit, without undoing the lines.

 

Just to add another element to the equation, my dealer pulled a code indicating the electrical connection between the sensor and the ABS module was at fault. Not the expensive sensor, but the 3 foot "whip" that goes from the sensor through the wheel well into a connector at the top of the strut tower. A $45 part if you look around ($95 at the dealer) and 1/2 hour of easy work semed to clear up my problem.

I paid the dealer for the diagnosis, but you might be able to find which wheel is at fault using the testing procedure noted here. If it's intermittent, though, you'll have to find a good comprehensive code reader...

I also bought a fresh battery and cleaned the sensors as described here.

 

I guess $45 is not so bad to quiet down this pest of a system, at least for a while. Mine was good for the last 18 months or so but is starting to get cranky again.

Does anyone know how the code generator goes about distinguishing a problem with the sensor itself (which is just a coil, I think) from a problem with the wiring leading to it?

 

Thanks again everyone. This has been a good teaching thread. I've been too busy to do any testing but I will get to it. I'm only concerned about driving in the rain w/o ABS, so hasn't been a top priority yet.

After seeing a sensor cost around $375 new, I just bid $50 and purchased a used one on Ebay. Don't even know if that's the problem, but thought I'd better grab it for that. A spare on the shelf is a good thing for "Peace of Mind" too.

When I find the problem I'll let you know.

Dennis07, I just read it could be the cable...after I bought the sensor. Where did you get that for $45?

 

Steve,

That cable purchase wasn't me ... see the post before mine.

Given your symptoms, I'm going to crawl out on a limb here and say I think your problem IS the wiring ... one of those ~ 3 foot stubs that connect the sensors to the rest of the harness. Likely an intermittent open circuit, and a front one is much more likely than a rear to be the culprit since the fronts have to flex much more in use.

This has worked for me: Open the 25-pin connector near the ABS box and put your ohm meter on the connector pins for, say, the left front wheel (pins 17 & 18). Something like 1k ohms should appear. Then the drill is to wiggle the wiring and connectors near the wheel sensor while watching the meter. It will jump of course if you cause an open circuit. RF pins are 3 & 4 if needed. With a little luck it's one or the other.

 

Hi all.

As with all electronic faults a fully charged battery is a must before starting to check for faults.
-If your ABS/Track warning is on and off, I think you have a bad connection somewhere, not a bad ABS module.
-Check large connector at the module and small connectors at the wheels. Spray sparsly with electronic cleaner.
-Check resistance from large connector to sensors. Should be approx. 1 or 2 kohm depending on model year. Be aware that front wheel sensors should be checked while turning steering fully from side to side, as you may have a wire just about to break.
-Resolder connections inside module regardless how they look. It is very hard to see a bad solder. (It is the two large connections going from module to ABS pump.)