Jaguar XK8 AJ26 to AJ28 engine swap?
#1
Jaguar XK8 AJ26 to AJ28 engine swap?
Hey guys,
It wasn't even a month and I had to park my XK8 at the service shop as the engine broke something We still haven't checked what exactly, as the shop is pretty busy at the moment. I'm hoping for a broken tensioner, the shop are more inclined at something broken inside the block (rod or smth... not sure about the correct translation). I noticed a knocking sound in high revs (3000+) at first while the car was driving perfectly fine. I managed to get to the shop and the car started stalling right when I was parking, after which it was unable to start as if the engine was locked (not sure about the correct term). The shop managed to start it and was still knocking, but this time on idle too (previously you couldn't hear it on idle). The knocking is heard from cylinder 2 (I think... the one closest to the right headlight) and where the upper tensioner is. I'll post a video at the end of the post.
So I'm already getting ready for all the option and trying to familiarize myself with the specifics around Jaguar engines, compatibility, naming conventions, etc. Ideally I would want to keep my AJ26 engine and repair it, but if it proves too costly I might consider other options. The cheapest one (around me) actually is to get a working 2000-2002 S-Type and source the engine from it. This way I can test and check the engine before buying the car, not that that helped a lot with the XK8 . Still such cars here are between 1000 and 2500 euro. But through my research I saw all option for swapping with AJ27 or 4.2 engines, but I couldn't find info about AJ28 which seems to be the one in the S-Type. Obviously AJ28 requires some other stuff with it, similar to AJ27 when swapping an AJ26, which will be ok, I think when I'm getting a whole donor car Would it be okay, or there is some crucial incompatibility
Note: Yes I considered LS swap, but here it is not that easy to source such engine and gearbox, also I don't like the 4 speed box (drove the similar one in the T6 S80 Volvo) and third... Doesn't really fit the XK8
The knocking sound video:
It wasn't even a month and I had to park my XK8 at the service shop as the engine broke something We still haven't checked what exactly, as the shop is pretty busy at the moment. I'm hoping for a broken tensioner, the shop are more inclined at something broken inside the block (rod or smth... not sure about the correct translation). I noticed a knocking sound in high revs (3000+) at first while the car was driving perfectly fine. I managed to get to the shop and the car started stalling right when I was parking, after which it was unable to start as if the engine was locked (not sure about the correct term). The shop managed to start it and was still knocking, but this time on idle too (previously you couldn't hear it on idle). The knocking is heard from cylinder 2 (I think... the one closest to the right headlight) and where the upper tensioner is. I'll post a video at the end of the post.
So I'm already getting ready for all the option and trying to familiarize myself with the specifics around Jaguar engines, compatibility, naming conventions, etc. Ideally I would want to keep my AJ26 engine and repair it, but if it proves too costly I might consider other options. The cheapest one (around me) actually is to get a working 2000-2002 S-Type and source the engine from it. This way I can test and check the engine before buying the car, not that that helped a lot with the XK8 . Still such cars here are between 1000 and 2500 euro. But through my research I saw all option for swapping with AJ27 or 4.2 engines, but I couldn't find info about AJ28 which seems to be the one in the S-Type. Obviously AJ28 requires some other stuff with it, similar to AJ27 when swapping an AJ26, which will be ok, I think when I'm getting a whole donor car Would it be okay, or there is some crucial incompatibility
Note: Yes I considered LS swap, but here it is not that easy to source such engine and gearbox, also I don't like the 4 speed box (drove the similar one in the T6 S80 Volvo) and third... Doesn't really fit the XK8
The knocking sound video:
#2
The BASIC BLOCK is the same on ALL 4.0 engines. The intake cams, oil pan, torque converter drive plate etc. etc. etc are different but those parts from the AJ26 will bolt onto the AJ28 block.
I am doing a swap similar to yours. I am using a 2002 AJ28 block for an AJ27 engine to install in a 2000 XJ8.
bob
I am doing a swap similar to yours. I am using a 2002 AJ28 block for an AJ27 engine to install in a 2000 XJ8.
bob
#3
Well I guess if I'm sorting out a whole car I might as well do a full swap with all the "upgrades", although I do prefer to stay with the Nikasil engine if it is not in bad shape and can be repaired... Unfortunately I can't source a cheap enough option for a 4.2 swap which would be the best option if I need to swap, I think.
But otherwise what you are saying is that if the damage is anywhere inside the block, I should be fine with just swapping that. Still that would mean servicing the heads, chains and everything, so I don't know if it won't be better to do this on a newer engine...
But otherwise what you are saying is that if the damage is anywhere inside the block, I should be fine with just swapping that. Still that would mean servicing the heads, chains and everything, so I don't know if it won't be better to do this on a newer engine...
#4
#6
Sounds a bit smooth for bent pistons. You can remove the cam covers and see if the valve buckets are dropped anywhere. If there is a broken chain you can remove the exhaust cam on that side (along with broken chain pieces) and run a compression check. (realistically you could run a compression check NOW- any damage would have happened during revving.
#7
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#8
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#9
There is a *possibility* that it is running smooth when revved and rough at idle that there is/are piston(s) lightly touching SLIGHTLY bent vales- I had an XJR with this condition and made a worse but similar noise that had dropped valve seats from an overheat- a quick view into the spark plug hole with a borescope verified the problem.
Is it the same when it is cold vs hot?
Is it the same when it is cold vs hot?
#10
In the video the car is hot. The engine was running perfectly smooth on idle and with no noticeable issues when revving except the noise. Same when driving her. At the time of the video after every rev to hear the noise the engine will return to idle then immediately cut off. Half an hour later, the engine behaved the same, but it wasn’t cutting off after revving.
As I said it drove perfectly to the shop as if nothing was wrong with it and started cutting off on idle as soon as I stopped at the shop. I couldn’t start it anymore and stopped trying. It was behaving as if there was no juice in the battery and the starter was having a hard time with cranking the engine. I didn’t have anything to check the battery at the time, but the onboard voltmeter was showing a bit under 13V. Two days later at the shop they tried to start it again and it was turning but again having a very hard time, this time sounding like a very bad belt squeaking. Later on they told me that they managed to start it and now the knocking can be heard clearly on idle. They haven’t had the time to take a look at the car since then, as my other car is in the shop too for complete refurbishing of timing chains, belts and rolls, gearbox, torque converter and a turbo so at least I’ll be on a roll
Still I have found a very cheap (1000 euro) S-type with a faulty gearbox, which I have to look at next week, and I’ll push the shop to check the chains and the cylinders first thing on Monday, or I’ll just go do it myself
As I said it drove perfectly to the shop as if nothing was wrong with it and started cutting off on idle as soon as I stopped at the shop. I couldn’t start it anymore and stopped trying. It was behaving as if there was no juice in the battery and the starter was having a hard time with cranking the engine. I didn’t have anything to check the battery at the time, but the onboard voltmeter was showing a bit under 13V. Two days later at the shop they tried to start it again and it was turning but again having a very hard time, this time sounding like a very bad belt squeaking. Later on they told me that they managed to start it and now the knocking can be heard clearly on idle. They haven’t had the time to take a look at the car since then, as my other car is in the shop too for complete refurbishing of timing chains, belts and rolls, gearbox, torque converter and a turbo so at least I’ll be on a roll
Still I have found a very cheap (1000 euro) S-type with a faulty gearbox, which I have to look at next week, and I’ll push the shop to check the chains and the cylinders first thing on Monday, or I’ll just go do it myself
#11
Make sure the battery is charged before they try to start it. If the voltage drops below about 10.8 during cranking the ECU will not allow it to start. But it would probably be better if they just took the cam covers off and checked the chains/tensioners instead. Also, be aware that the voltmeter is very inaccurate, like the oil and temp.
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kainy (07-07-2018)
#12
Today my mechanic opened the lids on the engine and sadly (in my case) the chains and the tensioners are perfectly fine. Some gasket or filter, I do not remember, on the other head was completely destroyed and probably caused some rattle too, but basically the engine is locked due to one piston hardly moving, with the cause not clear before full disassembly. As here this kind of labour and parts sourcing is both very time consuming and not very cost effective I decided too keep looking for an engine. Swap with a newer engine is too a relatively expensive treat, where also my mechanics are not jaguar specialist and there none around to do this job time and cost effectively.
But I managed to source a relatively cheap AJ26 engine with the chains removed and no papers (both bringing the price down). It has been sitting like that for about 3 years so it will definitely not be a plug and play job, but I always considered in that case that the chains would be replaced and the heads will be serviced (new gaskets, bolts, seals, valves if needed, etc.)
So this is the main plan now. I’m still on for tomorrow to look at a cheap s-type v8, which has the advantage of a running engine and I still might decide to embark on this adventure
Still the plan is to then rebuild the old engine completely, slowly, cheaply, but with high quality
I now need to find a good source (in Europe) for the chains kit
But I managed to source a relatively cheap AJ26 engine with the chains removed and no papers (both bringing the price down). It has been sitting like that for about 3 years so it will definitely not be a plug and play job, but I always considered in that case that the chains would be replaced and the heads will be serviced (new gaskets, bolts, seals, valves if needed, etc.)
So this is the main plan now. I’m still on for tomorrow to look at a cheap s-type v8, which has the advantage of a running engine and I still might decide to embark on this adventure
Still the plan is to then rebuild the old engine completely, slowly, cheaply, but with high quality
I now need to find a good source (in Europe) for the chains kit
#15
This is the running engine that I have found (only one :P) which is a 97'. Hasn't been run in the past 2 years, more than just to move the car around the lot, and 3 years prior that its been doing couple of thousand miles per year. At least that is what I'm getting from the MOT history. Currently the engine is at 133k miles. I can't get anybody to come and listen to it. The car runs fine, although I couldn't road test it, only around the lot. I know that mic sound probably won't cut it, but if somebody can catch anything it will still help
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