XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Jaguar XK8 AJ26 to AJ28 engine swap?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-05-2018, 08:12 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default Jaguar XK8 AJ26 to AJ28 engine swap?

Hey guys,

It wasn't even a month and I had to park my XK8 at the service shop as the engine broke something We still haven't checked what exactly, as the shop is pretty busy at the moment. I'm hoping for a broken tensioner, the shop are more inclined at something broken inside the block (rod or smth... not sure about the correct translation). I noticed a knocking sound in high revs (3000+) at first while the car was driving perfectly fine. I managed to get to the shop and the car started stalling right when I was parking, after which it was unable to start as if the engine was locked (not sure about the correct term). The shop managed to start it and was still knocking, but this time on idle too (previously you couldn't hear it on idle). The knocking is heard from cylinder 2 (I think... the one closest to the right headlight) and where the upper tensioner is. I'll post a video at the end of the post.

So I'm already getting ready for all the option and trying to familiarize myself with the specifics around Jaguar engines, compatibility, naming conventions, etc. Ideally I would want to keep my AJ26 engine and repair it, but if it proves too costly I might consider other options. The cheapest one (around me) actually is to get a working 2000-2002 S-Type and source the engine from it. This way I can test and check the engine before buying the car, not that that helped a lot with the XK8 . Still such cars here are between 1000 and 2500 euro. But through my research I saw all option for swapping with AJ27 or 4.2 engines, but I couldn't find info about AJ28 which seems to be the one in the S-Type. Obviously AJ28 requires some other stuff with it, similar to AJ27 when swapping an AJ26, which will be ok, I think when I'm getting a whole donor car Would it be okay, or there is some crucial incompatibility

Note: Yes I considered LS swap, but here it is not that easy to source such engine and gearbox, also I don't like the 4 speed box (drove the similar one in the T6 S80 Volvo) and third... Doesn't really fit the XK8

The knocking sound video:
 
  #2  
Old 07-05-2018, 09:15 AM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wise County,TX
Posts: 12,092
Received 8,075 Likes on 4,870 Posts
Default

The BASIC BLOCK is the same on ALL 4.0 engines. The intake cams, oil pan, torque converter drive plate etc. etc. etc are different but those parts from the AJ26 will bolt onto the AJ28 block.

I am doing a swap similar to yours. I am using a 2002 AJ28 block for an AJ27 engine to install in a 2000 XJ8.

bob
 
  #3  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:03 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Well I guess if I'm sorting out a whole car I might as well do a full swap with all the "upgrades", although I do prefer to stay with the Nikasil engine if it is not in bad shape and can be repaired... Unfortunately I can't source a cheap enough option for a 4.2 swap which would be the best option if I need to swap, I think.

But otherwise what you are saying is that if the damage is anywhere inside the block, I should be fine with just swapping that. Still that would mean servicing the heads, chains and everything, so I don't know if it won't be better to do this on a newer engine...
 
  #4  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:21 AM
RJ237's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Douglasville Ga.
Posts: 8,680
Received 2,799 Likes on 2,236 Posts
Default

Until you get the heads off and check for piston damage due to valves it's all guess work. My guess is that a secondary tensioner failed, the chain skipped a couple of teeth, and valves met pistons.

The lower end is very robust, so I would not expect bearing failure.
 
  #5  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:29 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Fingers crossed
 
  #6  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:57 AM
dsnyder586's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 2,134
Received 542 Likes on 423 Posts
Default

Sounds a bit smooth for bent pistons. You can remove the cam covers and see if the valve buckets are dropped anywhere. If there is a broken chain you can remove the exhaust cam on that side (along with broken chain pieces) and run a compression check. (realistically you could run a compression check NOW- any damage would have happened during revving.
 
  #7  
Old 07-06-2018, 05:00 PM
Truck Graphics's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 517
Received 157 Likes on 105 Posts
Default

I agree with dsnyder586....sounds fairly smooth...more like a stationary piece of metal is touching a rotating bit, than a knock or major engine damage....Keep your fingers crossed (and pop off those valve covers). You might luck out.
 
  #8  
Old 07-06-2018, 05:57 PM
michaelh's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,150
Received 2,380 Likes on 1,544 Posts
Default

Mmm. Rattle/knock much more obvious when engine accelerating (under load) than when on the overrun (not).

IMO not deep enough for bottom end but something horrid at piston/small end. Tear down will give you the answer & fingers crossed for you that it isn't so.
 
  #9  
Old 07-07-2018, 12:49 PM
dsnyder586's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 2,134
Received 542 Likes on 423 Posts
Default

There is a *possibility* that it is running smooth when revved and rough at idle that there is/are piston(s) lightly touching SLIGHTLY bent vales- I had an XJR with this condition and made a worse but similar noise that had dropped valve seats from an overheat- a quick view into the spark plug hole with a borescope verified the problem.

Is it the same when it is cold vs hot?
 
  #10  
Old 07-07-2018, 01:14 PM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

In the video the car is hot. The engine was running perfectly smooth on idle and with no noticeable issues when revving except the noise. Same when driving her. At the time of the video after every rev to hear the noise the engine will return to idle then immediately cut off. Half an hour later, the engine behaved the same, but it wasn’t cutting off after revving.

As I said it drove perfectly to the shop as if nothing was wrong with it and started cutting off on idle as soon as I stopped at the shop. I couldn’t start it anymore and stopped trying. It was behaving as if there was no juice in the battery and the starter was having a hard time with cranking the engine. I didn’t have anything to check the battery at the time, but the onboard voltmeter was showing a bit under 13V. Two days later at the shop they tried to start it again and it was turning but again having a very hard time, this time sounding like a very bad belt squeaking. Later on they told me that they managed to start it and now the knocking can be heard clearly on idle. They haven’t had the time to take a look at the car since then, as my other car is in the shop too for complete refurbishing of timing chains, belts and rolls, gearbox, torque converter and a turbo so at least I’ll be on a roll

Still I have found a very cheap (1000 euro) S-type with a faulty gearbox, which I have to look at next week, and I’ll push the shop to check the chains and the cylinders first thing on Monday, or I’ll just go do it myself
 
  #11  
Old 07-07-2018, 03:22 PM
RJ237's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Douglasville Ga.
Posts: 8,680
Received 2,799 Likes on 2,236 Posts
Default

Make sure the battery is charged before they try to start it. If the voltage drops below about 10.8 during cranking the ECU will not allow it to start. But it would probably be better if they just took the cam covers off and checked the chains/tensioners instead. Also, be aware that the voltmeter is very inaccurate, like the oil and temp.
 
The following users liked this post:
kainy (07-07-2018)
  #12  
Old 07-11-2018, 11:46 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Today my mechanic opened the lids on the engine and sadly (in my case) the chains and the tensioners are perfectly fine. Some gasket or filter, I do not remember, on the other head was completely destroyed and probably caused some rattle too, but basically the engine is locked due to one piston hardly moving, with the cause not clear before full disassembly. As here this kind of labour and parts sourcing is both very time consuming and not very cost effective I decided too keep looking for an engine. Swap with a newer engine is too a relatively expensive treat, where also my mechanics are not jaguar specialist and there none around to do this job time and cost effectively.

But I managed to source a relatively cheap AJ26 engine with the chains removed and no papers (both bringing the price down). It has been sitting like that for about 3 years so it will definitely not be a plug and play job, but I always considered in that case that the chains would be replaced and the heads will be serviced (new gaskets, bolts, seals, valves if needed, etc.)

So this is the main plan now. I’m still on for tomorrow to look at a cheap s-type v8, which has the advantage of a running engine and I still might decide to embark on this adventure

Still the plan is to then rebuild the old engine completely, slowly, cheaply, but with high quality

I now need to find a good source (in Europe) for the chains kit
 
  #13  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:37 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Can anyone recommend what brand chains kit is the one to get aside from the OEM one, or there is no quality aftermarket replacement?
 
  #14  
Old 07-13-2018, 10:06 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Is this guide applicable to a AJ26 to AJ28 swap?
 
  #15  
Old 07-20-2018, 07:34 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

This is the running engine that I have found (only one :P) which is a 97'. Hasn't been run in the past 2 years, more than just to move the car around the lot, and 3 years prior that its been doing couple of thousand miles per year. At least that is what I'm getting from the MOT history. Currently the engine is at 133k miles. I can't get anybody to come and listen to it. The car runs fine, although I couldn't road test it, only around the lot. I know that mic sound probably won't cut it, but if somebody can catch anything it will still help

 
  #16  
Old 07-25-2018, 05:02 AM
kainy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Posts: 84
Received 30 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Never mind, I got the car Now onto finding a shop to do the swap, which prooves harder that it should be...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Righand
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
12
04-17-2019 08:23 AM
NIgor
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
5
09-06-2016 02:45 AM
Kupferglanz
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
4
04-24-2014 02:39 AM
dsnyder586
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
26
02-05-2014 05:19 PM
MarkR
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
11
04-29-2013 01:20 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: Jaguar XK8 AJ26 to AJ28 engine swap?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:31 AM.