Nearly at 60K miles. Updates to fixes over the last year or so.

28/ Fixed steering auto up/down i.e. re-bend the spring washer $0
29/ Replace the purge vent valve $70
30/ Replace headliner and A pillars used grey passion suede big improvement over original. 2 cans 3M headliner glue $30 2 yards foam backed passion suede $40
31/ Painted brake calipers $10 paint
32/ 2nd set rotors and pads $200
33/ New battery this cleared that abs/trac issue on start up $130
34/ Added parrot blue tooth works great $100 eBay.

Still love the car hence its still in the garage. I plan to hang onto this car until 100K so at 2K miles a year I guess it will be in the garage for another 20 years LOL

 

Not really much of any expenses compared with any other car at 60K. By the way Sunnyvale is a nice place--my kids and grandson are there.

Doug

 

We love our '00 XKR. I fortunately used to be a vehicle Tech so do all of my own work, in a year and 5k of driving, we had less issues with our last '99 Porsche Boxster!

Parts costs are a pain as they are overpriced, but it comes with the territory I guess.
Finding a good Jag parts breaker is essential too.

 

Qwitzerbelleachen ! I have a 10 year old XK8 convertible with 45K on the clock. Not only looks great, but has been trouble free (aside from normal maintenance ) over the whole
period. Sounds like you are abusing your beast ! Should we call the SPCA ?

 

My XJ8 VDP was really reliable and was extremely gentle on my pockets compared to my Chrysler I owned and an Acura TL I had too.

 

I'm happy with my '98 convertible so far, but have owned it only 3 days and it's already cost several hundred dollars in miscellaneous parts. Then I found receipts for over $4000.00 in repairs hidden in the upper slot in the glove compartment. That and the fact that it has a brand new top means that my purchase price is less than the previous owner's repair costs.

John S.

 

Yes most parts can be had at a fair price you just need to scour eBay.

If you own these cars you must do the work yourself as they tend to be labor intensive as with any sports car where its all crammed into a tiny space!

 

Love my Jag so far, but anyone trying to argue they are relatively reliable compared to other cars.....well, are you serious ?


Looking at the service records and adding in the failed parts I have replaced so far in the last two months since I acquired the car, My well maintained 2000 XK8 has had far more failed parts than all our other cars combined for the last 30 years (honestly) and we keep our cars for typically 180,000 to 210,000 miles. As has been said these are great cars for a skilled do-it-yourselfer but it would be very unwise to think you can keep one going and pay someone else to repair it without great financial pain.

 

This thread is quite a read. Anyway...
2010 XKR, 59,000 miles:
Fails/Breaks
Broken glow-in-the-dark emergency inside-trunk release handle, $1.50
Missing/Lost
Two emergency key blades with cutting, $33.00
Consumables
Tires (one TPMS Sensor)
Gas
Oil
Filters
Brake pads and rotors

..... and that's about it.
So TOTAL repairs and unscheduled maintenance costs in Five Years:
$34.50
And that, my friends, is a Modern Jagggggg.....

 

You're very fortunate thus far. As your 2010 XKR continues to age, I believe you'll see your required maintenance and repair costs increase significantly (as most of us with the previous generation have experienced). Time will tell....

 

Back when I still worked for a living, I had a 1998 XKR coupe as a company car. In the three years I ran it, the only thing that went wrong was a broken cooling hose, replaced under warranty.

The depreciation was staggering though, fortunately paid for by the company. Cee Jay's 2010 XKR has lost around $45,000 in value from purchase to today,which puts the $34.50 repair bill into context

 

Mine has not been unreliable, but still the biggest lemon I have ever owned, but then, it was cheap to buy.


Looks like you just can't have your cake and eat it!

 

Most of the large costs incurred on my first XK8 were self inflicted by going to the dealer for service. Since switching to an independent my costs have gone down. However I did spend 1200 on the tensioner fix. I consider it insurance. 1200 now or 9000 later. Having said that I bought the car knowing that it would cost me between 2-4000 per year to keep on the road. Not a bad price to pay when everyone that sees you in it either comments or looks at you as if to say WOW I wish that were mine... Lets also keep in mind that the earlier Jags were an electrical nightmare. Which is probably why they are so rare now. If you want dependable buy a Honda or Toyota. However I have never once had someone say "Nice car"while driving my wife's Camry.

 

If you're able to do your own work, and have the right attitude towards preventative and predictive maintenance, these are very affordable to own. I've posted it up recently but my XKR has been around 500 a year in expenses but that's parts only, no labor. I am a software engineer but my speciality is maintenance management. A good attention to detail, and the right attitude towards maintenance can make most cars very usable.

I owned a C4 Corvette, a 1987 Convertible. It cost me more per mile and per year than my Jaguars have. I bet I did 4 k worth of labor a year on that car.

These really are fairly easy cars to work on. My Audis have been significantly more of a PITA in terms of doing stuff on them.

 

Some people are unlucky so post here.

I look to be lucky: STR, bought at 5 years old, had it nearly 7 years, I've done 55000 miles.

Non-service parts: DCCV, one (used) brake caliper.
Vaguely service parts: some coolant hoses

Main costs:
fuel (lots)
tyres (a few)
oil
filters
brake discs & pads
various fluids (brake, coolant)
etc.

One of the cheapest cars I've owned - but ONLY if you ignore the fuel. (What? A 400HP car uses plenty of fuel? Who would've known?)

This should jinx it but I've not had to replace any bulbs or even the wiper blades.

May be worth mentioning we have a tough annual inspection (MoT) here, which tests brakes, suspension, corrosion/rust, safety belts, lights (incl. headlight aiming & beam patterns), emissions, you name it.

 

My 2000 XK8 had many nitnoid problems, but nothing substantial;
Cup Holder repair DIY; $0
Dome Light Push Button DIY; Molded new with Craft Store kit; $12
Driver Vanity Mirror Door DIY; a penny worth of epoxy and a piece of scrap aluminum; $0
Leak in the Convertible Top Front Latch; $350 and a bunch of cleanup.
Torn Driver Seat Bolster; $225
Preventive Maintenance of Chain Tensioners, ...??? Can't remember.
Total maybe a grand??? The inside Rear View Mirror rattled after awhile, but I never did fix it due to fear of cracking the windscreen.
I sold it at 66,000 miles to get the 2010. 2000 is a MUCH nicer looking car from the outside, but the newer one completely dominates it everywhere else.
VERY GLAD I've owned both, still miss the 2000 quite often.

 

So, I consider brake rotors, pads, filters, fluids, hoses, belts to be normal maintenance, that said (all bought new except Jag which was given to me used):


1989 Chevy Van 190,000 miles
Motor Mounts

1997 Chevy S10 Pickup 135,000 miles
wiper circuit card
alternator

2000 Chevy K2500 76,000 miles
power steering pump (leak)
dash vent broken

2001 Chevy Blazer 146,000 miles (now has LSV8 engine)
intake gaskets

2004 BMW 325i 184,000 miles
sunroof guide
headliner slightly sagging
fuel pump
evap purge valve
minor oil leak

2000 Jag XK8 95,000 miles
MAF (twice)
2 ignition coils
replace faulty BCM (required 3 dealer visits)
cam chain tensioners
4 more ignition coils
Nav unit failed (no display, replacing with 3 gauge unit)
injector cleaning (2 were failed)
occasional misfire codes (no cause determined yet)
couple of minor oil leaks
blown fan fuse (no cause determined)
headliner sagging and A pillar material deteriorated (replaced all)
evap purge valve
possible catalyst failure (incomplete monitor)
key fobs work only occasionally
(on the plus side, no apparent Nikasil problem, and ZERO rust)

 

What about the Vette and Rolls? Just curious.

p.s. the Blazer has a new engine. Old one die or just a performance upgrade?

 

Didn't really consider that vintage cars were relevant for reliability comparison, but since you asked, after I restored the worn bits on the Vette about 15 years ago it has had no failures but only gets driven about 2000 miles per year (now at 112,000 miles). Very simple engine, no electronics, and inexpensive parts. I rebuilt the differential and replaced rear axle bearings on the RR this year, and the GM designed (RR built) transmission was replaced in 1965, I have detailed service records going back to 1955 so other than that and a bad tube (valve) in the radio I believe everything else is original (128,000 miles).


Blazer was strictly a performance upgrade with the original 190 hp V6 being inadequate for a relatively heavy 4x4. more than double the HP now with improved MPG and lower emissions. Original was reliable to over 100,000 miles though.

 

Don't expect to hit a no-defect bonanza with a Porsche! I spent more time laying under mine than I spent in the driver's seat. Still loved it!

As to my son's 55k mile 01 xkr, thank goodness he has me as a mechanic or he'd long ago been compelled to part ways. Lots of mostly minor and annoying issues (as documented and experienced by many of us). We love the car, and being jag lovers are content to accept the bad with the good.

Hmmm. Maybe we've been trained to accept that. Haha