Well just changed trans fluid and filter, replaced the two front rad hoses and greased the half shafts. Tks to Rev Sam (ZF 6HP29 I think ) and the forum it went as I expected and it took longer than I thought. I do have some observations if anyone is going to do either of these tasks. As for the trans in a previous post someone suggested to makes sure all the torx screws are loose as you do not want to get them almost all and then have a few stripped. I would take that one step further and loosed the drain plug and also the fill plug. If you have all these free than you know your good to go. If you drain and then find out some screws are stripped then you cannot use the car till you get those screws out. I did not. The fill plug was the issue. In the ZF 5HP24 trans its located at the back of the pan (on the side ) on the right side of the car. I used a 8mm 3/8 drive and a 8mm wrench as per Rev Sam video. This plug was really tight and I actually bent the 8mm wrench. It is a tight location. With extensions you cannot get the rachet on. I then used a 8mm 3/8 drive and a 3/8 knuckle. This length allowed the ratchet to get between the exhaust and the car. You then can get the torque required to free the fill plug. You have to position the knuckle for good twisting action. As far a filling no problem and when its up to temp I found it easier to just reach up with the plug in your hand and screw into place. If you do this you will figure out the position of your body and hand. You will not burn your hand if carefull and a hand tight turn is good enough to seal the hole. Then let exhaust cool and tighten. I drained and fill and drained and fill and then dropped the pan. I am glad I did this as the fluid was black and the filter was really black. The magnets were not bad. While I was at it I heat painted the pan. The coolant hoses were horrible. That left one is tight. I removed the rad enough to get some vise grips on the clamp. I replaced them with normal screw clamps. This actually took along time as I tried to get around lifting the rad ( well pushing it back ). I should of just removed the rad right of the bat. Other than the rad it was fairly straight fwd. The half shafts were a snap and if you got your car up you might as well do them. I hope there are some tips in here that someone will find useful. Glad I changed it. I used Castrol import trans fluid. And used 12 quarts when it was all said and done. I may drain and fill again next summer.

 

That deserves a and probably a or two to celebrate.
Careful with screw clamps on plastic coolant components. Factory uses them for two reasons:

1. quick to fit on production line
2. give a known tension

It's the second that's important when substituting screw clamps. Very easy to overtighten on plastic radiator stubs.

Graham

 

I watched the trans fluid change video about 5 times trying to motivate myself to jump in. Where did you purchase your pan/filter? Was it the plastic aftermarket or an OEM pan? Once I purchase my pan/filter, I guess Im all out of excuses.

 

Hey there

I got my filter at rock auto.com ( 14 cdn dollars I think ) actually the shipping was more expensive. Now the Rev Sam video I watched did not have the transmission in it that I have. I have a ZF 5HP24 in my car ( 99 xk8 ) and there are some differences. One being its a different set up for the filter. Very easy as it is just held in place by two bolts. And easy to put in. If you have the same trans as the video I guess you could check out rock auto. My cover is just that so I did not need a new one. I am glad I did it as what came out was like a 50's movies science fiction creature. The car is running and shifting good and seems smoother but that could be just me. Oh and in the original write up I said I removed the rad which I meant to be the rad fan unit. Good luck.

 

Graham:;

Tks for the info. Now I know why they used these clamps. I did notice the plastic and I judged what I figured was tight enough. I find the clamps I have if you over tighten they break ( cheap I guess ). But would not want to break the rad !!. No leaks and car is running good.

Howard

 

I had trouble getting the pan off of my 99 xj8. The pan was hung up on the dual exhaust. I noticed a exhaust cross brace toward the rear of the transmission, after I removed the two 12mm hanger bolts, it gave me enough wiggle room to slide off the pan. If working on a "sealed for life" 5hp, be sure to fill to top of fill hole, put the cap on, start the car, go through the gears, and while running, remove fill cap, and fill to top of threads again. I suggest using a hex driver with a 3" extension to avoid burning your hands on the hot exhaust pipes.

 

Hi,
job well done. Out of interest, when you did fluid change, did you have to run the box through gearchanges, or did you just run the engine up to temp.


best wishes

steven

 

The instructions are to put in D and R for 3 sec. each if I remember correctly. Interesting that PJag65 had clearance problem with exhaust. My pan came right off, but I did remove the cross brace for easier access to the fill plug.
RJ_____________
97 XK8 Conv. 85K mi

 

To load the torque converter, you need to load the trans. I didnt spin the tires, but I did go through all of the gears with my foot on the brake.