Can anyone tell me where the keyless entry control module is located on a 2000 xk8?

 

The Security Control Module (SCM) has the reciever in it. It is located in the trunk, mounted to the bottom of the fusebox.

Before you start digging into that, what is the problem you are trying to solve?

 

When I bought my car it came with one keyless entry remote. The remote looks brand new and I verified it is the correct part # for my car, but it doesn't work and won't take the programming. I don't know if it is a problem with the remote or with the module. I read that you can ground the module to test it. I bought a remote starter and I'm afraid it won't work because I'm sure it runs through the factory module.

 

First thing to try would be to check the batteries in the remote fob and clean the contact buttons on the printed circuit board inside the remote with ispropryl alcohol. Also if there is an Advance Auto near you, they have a reciever test device that can test whether your fob is putting out a signal.

I do not know what you mean by grounding the module to test it.

If you install a remote starter you also will need a transponder key bypass device and will have to store your key in it. BTW, the transponder and transponder key sensor are separate and are in the dash/steering column area.

 

The car only came with 1 black key and 1 green key. Can I use the valet key in the transponder key bypass?

 

I am not 100% sure, but I think it will work.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

I took my remote to advanced auto today to have it tested. The lock and unlock buttons didn't work but the other two did work. Is this common? I'm guessing there is no way to fix this.

 

Very common. Sounds like dirty contacts on the printed circuit board in the remote fob. Did you clean them with alcohol as described in the post above? Also clean the black rubber disks behind the rubber buttons.

 

I cleaned everything twice and I got all the buttons to work except the lock button. Any other suggestions?

 

Yes. Carefully compare the gold plated foil contact areas on the circuit board of a working and a non-working button under a bright light with a magnifier. Basicaly it is two cocentric circles with some spikes that get shorted together by the conductive rubber disk.

I had seen one where a bit of foil delaminated and was out of position and shorting out the button. I was able to just cut the offending bit away with the corner of a razor and it worked fine.

Also compare and make sure that there is no remaining black debris that the cleaning missed. If neccessary, very gently scrape it away.

Finally make sure the black disk on the back of the rubber button is still there and has not fallen off. Give it a swipe or two with 400 or 800 grit sandpaper.

Note the above is for the older style fobs with the carbonized rubber disks. The newer ones have mechanical switches and this does not apply.

 

Taking apart and cleaning my 2005 S-Type key fob's circuit board and rubber pad with alcohol and a couple of Q-Tips has restored its functions every time I've done it. I believe I've had to do it twice in four years of ownership, so that averages out to once every two years. I'm hard on these key fobs because when I do my weekday morning hikes, my keys are in my pants pocket and when I come off the trails I am soaking wet with sweat regardless of whether it is 90 degrees or 10 degrees outside. I should zip-lock my keys in a plastic bag prior to putting them in my pocket. Maybe I'll start doing so on my New Years Day hike....

 

After cleaning it several times, I got all the buttons to work. I had already done some research to make sure I have the correct remote for my year car. After all this I still can't get the programming to work. Could the sensor in the car be bad?

 

When programming remotes, the programming procedure has to be gone through 5 times in total.
For instance, if you have 2 remotes, programme the first one once and the second one four times.

You've only got one remote, try programming it 5 times.

Failure to fill up all 5 data slots when programming remotes, normally results in unsuccessful programming.

It's in the FAQ section under:

Remote Keyless Transmitter (key fob) Programming

(sorry, i don't know how to provide direct post links)

 

Once the car is in program mode and I push the lock button it waits about 5 seconds and the car beeps twice, which is exactly what it does if it is in program mode and I do nothing. If the remote is working then the only thing I can think of is that the car isn't receiving the signal. I would break down and take it to a jag dealer but the closest one is 2 hours away.

 

It looks as though you may not be programming the remote correctly.

What exactly do you do to put the car in programming mode?

Normally you would test the remote by pressing the buttons on it, after exiting programming mode by turning off the ignition, getting out of the car and closing the door.

 

Hold bright lights on insert key and turn 1 position, release lights and flash them 4 times, the car beeps once and light by shifter flashes once, then press the lock button on remote. Nothing happens until the programming mode times out and the car beeps twice. I've tried it once and I've tried it 5 times.....regardless it never works. I believe it is supposed to beep after I press the lock button to let me know the programming worked.

 

It sounds like you covered all the bases now:

-Verified part number of fob is correct for an '00.
-Cleaned fob and verifed that all buttons work at the auto parts store.
-Entered programming mode successfully and pressed the fob button five times. I assume you tried this a few times without success.

Next look at the SCM under the fusebox. Looking from the top, near the battery, verify that the knurled chrome antenna cable connector is actually plugged into the SCM. You should be able to see it without removing anything.

If that is OK then the SCM is the likely cuprit. If you remove the floor of the boot over the spare, and lift the carpet on the left side panel you should find a rectangular label with a table. Find the SCM entry. Next to it will be the SCM part number and program code (called the VCATs) code.

You can use these numbers to get a replacement SCM on ebay or from a used parts dealer for $100+/-. If you get it from the dealer you can add a zero onto that price.

If you replace the SCM, be sure to disconnect the battery first!

 

Is there a way to test it before I replace it?

 

Yes, but I believe only with the dealer's or a Jag repair shop's IDS/WDS computer system.