Well designed is subjective. The bend over the rear axel may not pose a significant restriction but it is an inelegant solution to the problem.

I was not really expecting a difference in the power, the test was for curiosity and also good engineering practice, to test changes so that you know which ones actually matter.

 

Bump

Charlie can you show some more details of your oil catch can setup?

Is the factory PCV valve still in place, or it's gone? I can't really see in that picture in the 1st post of the thread.

Thanks

 

I installed a catch can after seeing what Charlie had done to his car. It is amazing how much oil is being sucked back into our engines. I went about 5000 miles & had about 8 ounces of oil sitting in the can. When I look at these newer 5.0 liter engines apart the intakes & charge coolers are covered in oil. I only wish I had done it years ago. It is a great upgrade for all our cars.

 

Some comments in this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...an-yet-138452/ specifically about synthetic oil and detonation, have me wondering if my detonation problems might be solved by fitting a catch can.

There is enough space on the right hand drive XJR next to the brake master cylinder to fit one, and it will be out of sight under the plastic panels. Just need to figure out what to do with the PCV valve and adapt the hoses to the Norma fittings.

This is all new to me so i'm trying to find out as much as I can about it.

 

The can came with a fitting that had an integrated check valve but it was a metal on metal seal made a tink tink tink tink noise while at idle.

Drove me INSANE so I replaced the fitting with a strait through one and put the factory check valve back on.

Can is from: https://www.rxperformanceproducts.com/

They were a little slow to manufacture the can but it is very well made an they gave me the replacement fitting for free when I called and asked about the noise.

The hose that comes across the front and runs beside the check valve is the full load breather. I did not put a catch can on that side at all, and just plumbed the line into intake tube. Have never seen the first bit of oil in that one.



The OEM quick connect fittings on the factory molded plastic tubes are actually just a hose barb. If you are careful in taking the tubes off you can reuse the fittings with a standard hose and clamp.



You can't really see the bottom of the can easily, but the drain fitting is tucked into a rubber bush that used to hold the air box. I made up a simple sheet metal bracket with a single bold to keep it in place. The bracket is mounted with the same screws as the intercooler water pump.

The catch can bolt goes into a slot on the bracket so that all you need do is loosen the bolt a bit and raise the can up to get a cup under it for draining. No need to take it out of the car even. Most of the time I use a zip loc bag to drain it into and then seal it up.

The bracket is just sheet metal painted black. It was a quick hack to get the can in there and figure out the fit but it's out of the way and not very noticeable so I haven't gotten around to making a pretty one.

As JgaXkr said, there is a lot more oil being digested than you might expect.

 

Thank-you for the pictures and explainations Charlie.

So when you say check valve, it's the PCV valve (black round plastic one on the cam cover).

 

Yes, the black flying saucer looking thing on the valve cover.

The fitting is rather large, I think I used either 3/4 or 5/8 hose to connect to the PCV valve quick connect, and then adapted it down to the catch can size with a hardware store barb fitting.

 

I see you are using the programmable Abaco MAF sensor, may I ask you to tell us how it worked for you? Was it difficult to set it to work right?
Great project overall, both technically and esthetically!

 

I have had no problems with the Abaco meter and programming it is pretty easy with a USB cable.

Getting it set up right was not too difficult but did take some time as it was an empirical process. I started by recording the stock MAF g/sec and Voltage output to create a base transfer function. This was not very good but was close enough that the car would run.

I then did a series of drives and recorded the fuel trims and different constant speeds on strait and level terrain, adjusting the transfer function bit by bit until the fuel trims were close to zero.

You can use that method for flows up to about 100g/sec, which is into the more or less linear region of the transfer function. From there I just extrapolated it the rest of the way up.

I am glad to share the calibrations that I have, but it will be for a supercharged 4.2L so won't directly apply to the other variants.

 

Bravo! Well desired reward after the tremendous work involved in the tear down and install. So glad to see Andre's mech tech have outside proof of the explosive power gain. Jeesh...like running Nitrous all the time! Incredible. Wish the dyno run could capture full power from start to red line, instead of the gentle toe in 3rd-4th gear mid rpm....it's got to a huge hp gain that's not being shown.

I always forget to look and research for myself but, wouldn't the dyno boxes that bolt to your axles (after you remove your wheels) work better since they completely remove wheel spin and (can't remember this part, to long since we modified any new "Rs" after getting caught by Jag) allow the use of first gear?

Have those fallen out of favor or were they not accurate?


Having just taken off all the supercharger stuff chasing a vacuum leak, all I can say is "Respect!" for your much tougher job.

I'm still in the taking baby steps mode. Can't test my porting results until I sort out the 722.6, which will be starting soon, with a new electrical conductor plate install and fresh trans oil. I'm just too damn slow...still haven't got the water injection on either...


Alright time to let loose the dogs of war and get dirty with my old Jag.

 

Charlie,

I was looking over your photos and noticed you went from a pro-m looking MAF in the beginning to an abacco. What injectors are you running? Im doing a few things to my xkr over the winter including the later model blower with recoated rotors & smaller pulley and a bored TB . Already have a larger custom intake and wanted to finish it off with either the prom or abbaco maf. I also have a 05 4.2 xkr motor which will eventually make its way in but for now I also have those injectors I can use, Figured maybe someone has a MAF transfer function curve that will work with the aabaco and either the 4.0 or 4.2 injectors. If not I may just go for the Pro M and stick with the 4.0 injectors. What did you do? thanks!

 

Spot on. I started with a Pro-M meter, but the transfer function was not right for the 4.2 ECU. Rather than pay them $100 a pop to reprogram it while I did guess and check to see if the transfer function was right, I bought an Abaco meter that I could program myself.

The transfer function I run today is one that I made up on my own through empirical testing. I started by logging the stock g/s and MAF Vout over OBD to get a starting point and refined it from there.


Using the stock 4.2 injectors, but in reality they are too small. This was one of the learnings as I went, that I really should have gotten some aftermarket larger injectors. As it is today with the twin screw and the 4.2L the AFR is too lean at the top end and I HAVE to run the mater meth injection to keep it safe.

I don't like depending on that system and some day when I get around to it I will upsize the injectors, just have been dragging my feat since the car runs great and it is such a PITA to get at them.

I have a set of heads that I was thinking to get ported and if I do that and the top of the motor apart, I'll do the injectors too.


It's a bit easier with the 4.0 as the fuel system allows increasing the pressure to make up for the injectors that are too small. This is not easily done on the 4.2 with it's single ended fuel system that regulates the pressure by modulating the pump speed.

Andre has had good results using the 4.2 injectors (which have a bit better spray pattern) and higher fuel pressure in conjunction with the 4.0 ECU.

I have one for the Abaco meter and am glad to share it with you if interested. It's for a 4.2, so would need some tweaking for the 4.0, but it's easy to reprogram those meters and make your own curves if you have some understanding of what you're doing.

The O2 sensor is actually a wide band and while you can't get the AFR under WOT from the standard OBD data, you CAN do it if you have the WDS or SDD software and know how to convert the current to AFR.

Drop me a PM with your email address if you are interested in the Abaco curve.

 

just wondering , Did I miss the xk8 twin screw kit ?

 

Did you ask avos?