Locks went crazy!
#1
Locks went crazy!
I immediately ran to the computer and checked this forum and found similar stories, but none exact. Most dishearteningly I didn't find any solutions, I was wondering if anybody has any. Here's what happened:
I was walking away from the car in a store parking lot and when I hit the lock button, it didn't chirp. I wasn't too far away and thought it was odd, so I hit it again and chirp, it worked. When I came out of the store 10 minutes later the alarm was going off. I hit the unlock button - once didn't work, but I may have been too far away, but then the second hit of the unlock button stopped the alarm.
When I got into the car I put it in drive and both locks cycled between lock and unlock 3 times. The cycling continued and I have figured out what causes it: when the car is in drive, both doors lock. When I put it in park, and open the driver's door, that is supposed to trigger the unlock on the passenger door too, and it doesn't... that stays locked. So when I start the car, the passenger door is locked and both side door locks cycle 3 times when I put it in drive and ends with both doors locked.
After reading previous posts, I tried to unlock the passenger door manually and see what happened, but even though it was unlocked, when I put it into drive it still cycled 3 times.
Then I tried my key fobs and zero happens with them. Nothing can't get locks, trunk, or lights. No noise, nada.
Then I went to the battery, and luckily I just bought a new one for my truck, so I hooked that up. Same problem, no difference. I even waited a while between hooking it up to try to give the computer a couple of minutes to power down.
So now I am out of ideas? Anybody have any? Or even better, I did find many lock stories when I searched... anybody find solutions?
Thanks,
Nick
I was walking away from the car in a store parking lot and when I hit the lock button, it didn't chirp. I wasn't too far away and thought it was odd, so I hit it again and chirp, it worked. When I came out of the store 10 minutes later the alarm was going off. I hit the unlock button - once didn't work, but I may have been too far away, but then the second hit of the unlock button stopped the alarm.
When I got into the car I put it in drive and both locks cycled between lock and unlock 3 times. The cycling continued and I have figured out what causes it: when the car is in drive, both doors lock. When I put it in park, and open the driver's door, that is supposed to trigger the unlock on the passenger door too, and it doesn't... that stays locked. So when I start the car, the passenger door is locked and both side door locks cycle 3 times when I put it in drive and ends with both doors locked.
After reading previous posts, I tried to unlock the passenger door manually and see what happened, but even though it was unlocked, when I put it into drive it still cycled 3 times.
Then I tried my key fobs and zero happens with them. Nothing can't get locks, trunk, or lights. No noise, nada.
Then I went to the battery, and luckily I just bought a new one for my truck, so I hooked that up. Same problem, no difference. I even waited a while between hooking it up to try to give the computer a couple of minutes to power down.
So now I am out of ideas? Anybody have any? Or even better, I did find many lock stories when I searched... anybody find solutions?
Thanks,
Nick
#2
Do a hard reset on the computers first...I know you may have disconnected the battery, but thats what we like to call a 'soft' one. Remove the negative cable and briefly touch it to the postive. That clears all of the remaining capacitors...and memory. (remember to reprogram your windows)
Check it after that. I've had some weird glitches, no alarm activation with my key, no locking, lights remaining on inside the car, amongst others...a hard reset and it was cured. That was 2.5 years ago and I haven't gotten a new battery at all.
Check it after that. I've had some weird glitches, no alarm activation with my key, no locking, lights remaining on inside the car, amongst others...a hard reset and it was cured. That was 2.5 years ago and I haven't gotten a new battery at all.
#3
#5
Better -- but worse
I had some time after work to go to the garage and really delve into the issue. I played with the lock positions, put in gear and opened doors a million different combinations and I hit one that work, and I honestly don't remember what was where. But a bunch of on, off, drive open cycles and it seems fine.
So then I thought maybe the transmitters would work.... and nope. So I did the process to mate them to the car and still nothing. I believe the car is reading them when in learn mode because I get the two chips confirming so after 5 button pushes, but when I take the key out of the ignition and try to use the transmitters still nothing.
I did a hard reset after the handle locks were working and the key fobs weren't, then tried to program again, but that didn't change anything.
Like you said, good chance its the security module. But in light of new info with locks working any other suggestions or things to try? I am an hour and a half from the closest dealer and they can't get me in until next friday, when I am supposed to be leaving for a 10 day road trip with the car. Not to mention we had issues last year over a bad coil that they didn't want to replace and kept telling me was fine... until they actually looked at it. Long story.
Funny/worse part is, I would be fine with the locks not locking when car is in drive because sometimes that is annoying anyway. I really just wanted the key fob to work, but I got the opposite. Oh well.
PS. Checked the following fuses:
Engine compartment left hand side: #3 Security sounder, etc.
Luggage Compartment #10 Security and locking control module (I was really hoping this one was blown)
Fascia Driver #15 Driver's door module
Fascia Passenger #2, 4 and 15
Anything I overlooked?
So then I thought maybe the transmitters would work.... and nope. So I did the process to mate them to the car and still nothing. I believe the car is reading them when in learn mode because I get the two chips confirming so after 5 button pushes, but when I take the key out of the ignition and try to use the transmitters still nothing.
I did a hard reset after the handle locks were working and the key fobs weren't, then tried to program again, but that didn't change anything.
Like you said, good chance its the security module. But in light of new info with locks working any other suggestions or things to try? I am an hour and a half from the closest dealer and they can't get me in until next friday, when I am supposed to be leaving for a 10 day road trip with the car. Not to mention we had issues last year over a bad coil that they didn't want to replace and kept telling me was fine... until they actually looked at it. Long story.
Funny/worse part is, I would be fine with the locks not locking when car is in drive because sometimes that is annoying anyway. I really just wanted the key fob to work, but I got the opposite. Oh well.
PS. Checked the following fuses:
Engine compartment left hand side: #3 Security sounder, etc.
Luggage Compartment #10 Security and locking control module (I was really hoping this one was blown)
Fascia Driver #15 Driver's door module
Fascia Passenger #2, 4 and 15
Anything I overlooked?
Last edited by jnporcello; 03-31-2010 at 07:49 PM.
#6
Do a hard reset on the computers first...I know you may have disconnected the battery, but thats what we like to call a 'soft' one. Remove the negative cable and briefly touch it to the postive. That clears all of the remaining capacitors...and memory. (remember to reprogram your windows)
Check it after that. I've had some weird glitches, no alarm activation with my key, no locking, lights remaining on inside the car, amongst others...a hard reset and it was cured. That was 2.5 years ago and I haven't gotten a new battery at all.
Check it after that. I've had some weird glitches, no alarm activation with my key, no locking, lights remaining on inside the car, amongst others...a hard reset and it was cured. That was 2.5 years ago and I haven't gotten a new battery at all.
#7
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#8
I now have the car back from the dealer. They diagnosed the problem as the security control module (good call H2O boy). They said when they opened it up there was condensation in there. This is the part that makes my blood boil -- they said that because it is due to moisture, my Select Edidtion warranty won't cover it. First, why the h#@ll would they tell jag that and second, how did moisture get int here in the first place? They want to soak me $1200 for a new one.
Questions for you guys:
I don't think the modules are all 100% interchangeable, but I was told by Coventry West that if I get one with the same numbers, I can swap it out. Does anybody know any more about the interchangeability of them? Second, coventry west doesn't have a used one in stock. Any other ideas where to look? Of course the dealer told me I had to get it from them or it would never work. I'm sure there is a way aroundtheir $1200 non warranty solution. Oh, and by the way, that reminds me, anyone know how to get in contact with people at the select edition warranty so I can dispute it?
Questions for you guys:
I don't think the modules are all 100% interchangeable, but I was told by Coventry West that if I get one with the same numbers, I can swap it out. Does anybody know any more about the interchangeability of them? Second, coventry west doesn't have a used one in stock. Any other ideas where to look? Of course the dealer told me I had to get it from them or it would never work. I'm sure there is a way aroundtheir $1200 non warranty solution. Oh, and by the way, that reminds me, anyone know how to get in contact with people at the select edition warranty so I can dispute it?
#9
Not sure about a SCM my buffalo resident... thats the first one I've heard of that has had this problem. Other modules (ABS, TCM, ECM) have been interchanged, and also heard of them being rebuilt. You could try that, but you'd be w/o your secuirty module, and my guess...w/o a starting car. Since this isn't a common problem, If it were me, I'd try to source a parts SCM, be sure to call so you can tell them your part number, get it excatly the same and try the swap. It most likely would need programming to your car by the dealer, and keys...so that's an additional cost you need to consider in your decision.
Or, call another Jag dealer.
Or, call another Jag dealer.
#10
That's what's funny too. The car starts, runs, and locks. I can lock the door with the key and I even get the confirmation chirps. Its just that nothing works with the key fob. And like I said, I think the car is reading them b/c when I put it into learn mode, it does the confirmation chirp after 5 presses.
Another question I'm looking into if I can't get the dealer to do it: Coventry West said that there is a sticker in the trunk that has a 3 digit or letter (I forget) code for the SCM. There are a few different codes out there with the same part # and this 3 digit code will let it be compatable with my car. He says its in the trunk under the carpet somewhere. My problem is that I have removed every single piece of trim and spare tire in the trunk and can not find the sticker. Anybody else know where it may be?
Another question I'm looking into if I can't get the dealer to do it: Coventry West said that there is a sticker in the trunk that has a 3 digit or letter (I forget) code for the SCM. There are a few different codes out there with the same part # and this 3 digit code will let it be compatable with my car. He says its in the trunk under the carpet somewhere. My problem is that I have removed every single piece of trim and spare tire in the trunk and can not find the sticker. Anybody else know where it may be?
Last edited by jnporcello; 04-09-2010 at 10:34 AM.
#12
Same problem here!
Nick,
In my car there is a sticker in the trunk, between the rear lights, right behind the spare tire. Its has numbers for 10 modules on it.....at least, I think it does. It mentions the VIN of the car and below it the following modules: KTM, TCM, PSM, PDM, DDM, SLM, IPK, BPM and ECM. Behind the three letter code of each module is a number consisting of 3 letters, 4 numbers, 2 letters/3 numbers (for example: LNC2665AA/001).
Did you fix the problem yet?
As I mentioned on the other forum, my car has almost the same problem. I tried to fix it today by checking for any loose wires, corroded contacts or blown fuses. Found nothing. Then I tried a hard reset (disconnecting the negative wire from the battery and touching the positive with it for a couple of seconds). It did not change a thing.
When I open the doors with the key-fob, they cycle open/close three times before they stay open. When I drive away, only the passenger door locks - the drivers door remains open. When I unlock the passenger door from the inside by moving the door handle, both doors cycle open/closed three times before they stay open. Closing the doors with the key-fob works fine and activating the alarm works fine too.
The problem started after the car had been in winter storage since October last year. The battery had been connected to a trickle charger all the time. When waking up the car after previous winter storage periods, I had already noticed that I could not deactivate the alarm or open the doors with the key fob anymore, the first time I tried to open it. I had to open the doors with the key first, which would set of the alarm. Next I would have to deactivate the alarm with the key fob. After that, the key fob used to work fine again.
This year I had the same problem when I first tried to open the car after several months of hibernation (the car - not me!). Unfortunately, this time the problem did not fix itself after opening the door with the key once like in previous years. I cannot imagine that the problem is caused by moisture, because the car has been stored for months in a dry and heated garage.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to solve this problem, I would be happy to hear them!
Regards, Jelle
In my car there is a sticker in the trunk, between the rear lights, right behind the spare tire. Its has numbers for 10 modules on it.....at least, I think it does. It mentions the VIN of the car and below it the following modules: KTM, TCM, PSM, PDM, DDM, SLM, IPK, BPM and ECM. Behind the three letter code of each module is a number consisting of 3 letters, 4 numbers, 2 letters/3 numbers (for example: LNC2665AA/001).
Did you fix the problem yet?
As I mentioned on the other forum, my car has almost the same problem. I tried to fix it today by checking for any loose wires, corroded contacts or blown fuses. Found nothing. Then I tried a hard reset (disconnecting the negative wire from the battery and touching the positive with it for a couple of seconds). It did not change a thing.
When I open the doors with the key-fob, they cycle open/close three times before they stay open. When I drive away, only the passenger door locks - the drivers door remains open. When I unlock the passenger door from the inside by moving the door handle, both doors cycle open/closed three times before they stay open. Closing the doors with the key-fob works fine and activating the alarm works fine too.
The problem started after the car had been in winter storage since October last year. The battery had been connected to a trickle charger all the time. When waking up the car after previous winter storage periods, I had already noticed that I could not deactivate the alarm or open the doors with the key fob anymore, the first time I tried to open it. I had to open the doors with the key first, which would set of the alarm. Next I would have to deactivate the alarm with the key fob. After that, the key fob used to work fine again.
This year I had the same problem when I first tried to open the car after several months of hibernation (the car - not me!). Unfortunately, this time the problem did not fix itself after opening the door with the key once like in previous years. I cannot imagine that the problem is caused by moisture, because the car has been stored for months in a dry and heated garage.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to solve this problem, I would be happy to hear them!
Regards, Jelle
#13
OK, so here's the rest of the story. My dealer refused to cover the SCM. I was taking the car on a 2 week road trip and called a dealer in Charlotte, NC and told them the story. They said they would be happy to take a look at it while I was down there, and from what I told them it should be replaced under warranty. (This was after I was looking in the boot for the number and was going to replace it myself. That sticker that was mentioned was not anywhere in the trunk. I removed every piece of covering and the spare and no luck with the sticker.)
The dealer in charlotte said they could read it from the computer, and that is how they ordered the correct SCM. They replaced it under select warranty and since then things work correct now with regard to the remote.
The dealer in charlotte said they could read it from the computer, and that is how they ordered the correct SCM. They replaced it under select warranty and since then things work correct now with regard to the remote.
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