I'm going to try to make this as detailed and short as possible... A few months back on a Thursday I drove to a gas station with the gas level being one line above E. The car drove there fine with no problem, but after I filled up my car it would no longer start. I had it towed to my house, disconnected the battery over night and it started with no problem. I went out that following Saturday, car drove fine all day on the freeway, and later that night doing about 70 mph on the freeway, my engine stopped - with a 'Fail Safe' Mode message on the dash! Luckily I was able to safely 'coast' to a hotel which happened to be off the service road. Tried restarting it for over an hour to no avail..
(after this had happened I searched this forum and learned that it wasn't good to let this particular vehicle's gas level go down to a certain level -fine)...

The next day I had the car towed to my mechanic, issue turned out being a fuel pumped- fine.

Car drove fine for a little over a month after the fuel pump replacement. Until one day with a half of tank I decided to go to the gas station to fill up. After I filled up- you got it, my car didn't start. Had it towed to the same mechanic, and you guessed it- it was the fuel pump. It's been about 2 weeks since I've gotten my car back, and it's been driving until this morning....

Got up this morning, and it's about 34f outside (other months it had been between 78-87f), started my car and after 1 minute got an Engine Stall error. I hate to believe that it's the fuel pump again, and I'm officially at my wits end.

Could there be something else causing this beside the fuel pump? Possibly something that may be causing the wires to fry on the pump??? I'm no mechanic, but do you think it's something that I can fix myself? I really like this car, and don't want to get rid of it, but......

Also, are there any members in the Dallas area that could possibly help me with this?

Please help!

1999 XK8

 

Good day,

I'm gonna ask the obvious here... Does you Mechanic test to see if the power is getting to the pump? Or does he just replace it due to it not running when the key is on?! If I had to guess, it would be the relay that controls the pump... Although my initial guess would have been the crank sensor... Swap the relays in the trunk around... I think it is R3 for the fuel pump, but swap them all to a different position to cover all bases... If the pump doesn't give you any more issues (over a two week period), replace the relay...

Good luck and let us know what you discover...

Cheers!!

 

bluexk8ragtop- thanks for your quick reply. My mechanic claimed to have check the power to the fp, but when he had done a pressure test he said that no pressure was detected. So he replaced the fuel pump. As far as in the relays....funny that you mentioned that. I actually checked the fuses, and relays earlier today. In fact, earlier I swapped the R4 relay (fuel pump) with another another relay as you just suggested- .....ended up having the same issue. Someone else mentioned the crank sensor a while back. Is the crank sensor something that I can fix myself if that's the issue. Trying to stop from going broke over here.


By the way. I've read that it could possibly be a filthy throttle body, a tbs, crank sensor, fuel pump (replaced 2x within 2 months), etc.... I don't have the means of checking these things, unless it's something simple that I can get to.
The car turns over when the ignition is engaged/cranked, but acts as if there's no gas.

 

Well, there are only two things that will keep a mechanically sound car from running; lack of fuel or spark... The fuel pump is a given... The CPS will kill your spark... So, I'm guessing it has something to do with the fuel system as your mechanic says no fuel pressure when it won't start... So now the questions is, what kind of pump is he using? Used?! Inferior quality parts that don't totally agree with the Jaguar electrical system after a few months?! I would run direct 12V to the pump if it does it again and see what happens... And my reason is this: I have a driver side window issue... I'm getting 12V to the motor, but the door module won't pass the necessary current to spin the motor... I was chasing my tail when I first diagnosed the problem... It wasn't until I straight wired the motor to 12V from the battery that it would spin... Could it still be my window motor?! Sure, but I'm going with the door module first...

Good luck!!

Cheers!!

 

I'm not sure if they're talking about the same pump, but you may find the following link interesting
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-pumps-78107/

 

That link is for a completely different pump used in 2003 and later models.

 

Couldn't be something triggering the fuel pump cut out switch could it?

I think once activated, the switch has to be reset by pressing it back in by hand, so it's a long shot given the symptoms, unless maybe it has a faulty wire leading to it that's intermittently breaking the circuit.

Have you tried, or can you try, pulling the plugs when it won't start to see if you are getting a spark?

If you are that would at least eliminate the cps killing the spark.

The cps is easy to get to as long as you have a trolley jack, a pair of axle stands and a torx screwdriver bit (T30)

It's under the centre of the car, at the back of the engine, in the forward face of the flywheel housing, and is held in with just the T30 screw.

If you don't want to get a new one, then removing it and a spray with some residue free electrical contact cleaner might help.

I know i should keep quiet when competent people are on the case, it just reminds me of an issue i had with a previous car (a Ford) that would happily crank, but not pump fuel.

 

Try this to see if you've got fuel pressure
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
If you don't have ready access to a gauge wrap some cloth round the valve and depress the 'tit' - you should get a healthy squirt of fuel.