Low Engine Coolant warning
#21
#22
Well I do have a Dillon 550 and my reloads are for 9mm & 45. I did have a 38sp but sold it. As for the toys, I seem to make my neighbors and children are jealous. This is the shooting range my son and I go to weekly. http://www.silvereagle-group.com/
#23
Us 'good ol' southern boys' just have to go outside to shoot.
http://pcsc.us/
Perhaps we could get jimC64 to open a shooting forum off the server.
http://pcsc.us/
Perhaps we could get jimC64 to open a shooting forum off the server.
#24
I really prefer to shoot outdoors, but this looks like a really nice Indoor Range! I too have the Dillon 550, I just haven't had to reload in so many years that I'll need to refresh my memory. I have pretty good reloading records, so I can look them up. Sad to say, but I have many more guns than I do justice to as I just don't shoot all that often anymore.
#25
I was a member of the Izaac Walton in Va but elected to go to the indoor range. It is dry and the temperature was just right for an old man like me. As for the reloading I am new to it. At one time I had many guns but today only a few. The one I like the most is my Kimber Pro Carry 45 with a Kimber 22 conversion. Tom it looks like you have a nice place to shoot. As for the country boy I am a misplaced Philadelphia city boy from the streets of north phila. Va became home in 1970 after my return home from Vietnam. Thanks Brian!
#26
#27
The PCSC has a great activities. I wish that they posted some of their pictures though as I bet that it is gorgeous there.
I shot a Kimber .45 years ago and it was SWEET! I have a tricked out Colt Gold Cup that I love, but the Compensator makes it too large for concealed carry.
I think that Test Point could teach us both a good bit about reloading. I have not been very active in Shooting lately. As a kid, those were some of the best times that I had............Shooting, Cleaning Guns and Reloading for them with my Dad. Scavenging discarded Brass was one of my favorite activities, right up there with digging lead out of the backdrops to melt down and re-cast.
Have fun with the Expansion Tank. You can play with it to your heart's content and toss it when you are done.
Brian
I shot a Kimber .45 years ago and it was SWEET! I have a tricked out Colt Gold Cup that I love, but the Compensator makes it too large for concealed carry.
I think that Test Point could teach us both a good bit about reloading. I have not been very active in Shooting lately. As a kid, those were some of the best times that I had............Shooting, Cleaning Guns and Reloading for them with my Dad. Scavenging discarded Brass was one of my favorite activities, right up there with digging lead out of the backdrops to melt down and re-cast.
Have fun with the Expansion Tank. You can play with it to your heart's content and toss it when you are done.
Brian
#28
Well I made several tests and had it apart to figure it out. I have nothing conclusive yet but I am working on it. I was able to make it give a false reading only one time but will continue my test until it does it again. I found the probe is a bit interesting and trying to figure out how it reads and how it could send a false read.
And now you know why I have no time to reload!
And now you know why I have no time to reload!
#29
Anyone that enjoys guns can go to my nephews web page www.coltautos.com a little history on colt or my friends shop at www.csarms.com for Antique and Collectors Arms and Militaria. Enjoy the read!
#30
I just finished my evaluation on the coolant tank and will post my results on my page. I am unable to verify this until I get my car back. However, I believe if you remove the probe from the tank and clean it and the tube it goes in it may eliminate the false readings. I prematurely cleaned the probe after a test to reinstall and all my test from that point changed as a result. FYI, I am not done yet!
#31
#32
Test Point,
The switch you found is a reed switch. It consists of two contacts (small metal reeds) Some are mercury wetted. They are enclosed in a glass tube to prevent corrosion. They come as normally open N/O, or normally closed N/C. They are activated by a magnetic field. Sensitivity to the magnetic field is measured in Ampere Turns (AT) In the XK8 use, one side of the switch goes to ground, the other to FC26-23 in the major instrument cluster.
When the switch closes it places a ground on FC26-23 indicating low coolant. (XK8 wiring Diagram). I would appreciate it if you could give me any numbers you find on the reed switch.
I would like to identify it, as reed switches a very cheap $.75 to $10 or so for the real high capacity ones.
The switch you found is a reed switch. It consists of two contacts (small metal reeds) Some are mercury wetted. They are enclosed in a glass tube to prevent corrosion. They come as normally open N/O, or normally closed N/C. They are activated by a magnetic field. Sensitivity to the magnetic field is measured in Ampere Turns (AT) In the XK8 use, one side of the switch goes to ground, the other to FC26-23 in the major instrument cluster.
When the switch closes it places a ground on FC26-23 indicating low coolant. (XK8 wiring Diagram). I would appreciate it if you could give me any numbers you find on the reed switch.
I would like to identify it, as reed switches a very cheap $.75 to $10 or so for the real high capacity ones.
#33
I am going to start cutting the tank the probe once I am convinced that I did all I could while it is together. Is this switch that you have Tom a standard for a given year? Can I get a photo of it? Looking at my probe I am unable to identify what makes it work. I also want to look at the bobber to see how that falls into play.
#34
I don't know about standard but the '02 tank that was leaking had the same reed switch as the '00 that I bought from a recycling yard.
A photo would be a little difficult but I may take it apart for a shot if the weather is bad as forecast tomorrow.
The magnet is a ring that floats while sliding up/down on the tube that covers the reed switch.
A photo would be a little difficult but I may take it apart for a shot if the weather is bad as forecast tomorrow.
The magnet is a ring that floats while sliding up/down on the tube that covers the reed switch.
#35
You made me do it! I just pulled (cut) the cover off the probe and it appears to be a reed type in a glass bulb. No need for your photo. I am going to look into the bobber. I used a magnet tonight to change the characteristic of the probe but it would not change it. Will give you an update when I have it! What is puzzling me is that it changed without the bobber moving and then after cleaning it worked just fine every time.
#36
Hey guys,
I'm also getting "low engine coolant" message! Actually it'll appear for about 10 secs only when I slam the gas. It showed up 3 times today during my 30 mins drive back home.
I was changing the oil at the dealership last week and they detected a leak in the "heater hoses in the back of the engine" which are only reachable by removing the supercharger, that's why it's gonna cost $1200 on labor and $300 on parts! I really hope that's not the actual problem!
They told me to keep an eye on it and keep topping it up as a temporary solution if I don't wanna pay that much to replace the hoses, however, the coolant is expensive, like $60 for a gallon (orange colored), they said.
I checked the coolant and it does seem low on coolant, yet there is no water/coolant underneath the car when it's parked!
Any thoughts!
Thanks a lot
Sam
I'm also getting "low engine coolant" message! Actually it'll appear for about 10 secs only when I slam the gas. It showed up 3 times today during my 30 mins drive back home.
I was changing the oil at the dealership last week and they detected a leak in the "heater hoses in the back of the engine" which are only reachable by removing the supercharger, that's why it's gonna cost $1200 on labor and $300 on parts! I really hope that's not the actual problem!
They told me to keep an eye on it and keep topping it up as a temporary solution if I don't wanna pay that much to replace the hoses, however, the coolant is expensive, like $60 for a gallon (orange colored), they said.
I checked the coolant and it does seem low on coolant, yet there is no water/coolant underneath the car when it's parked!
Any thoughts!
Thanks a lot
Sam
#37
............ They told me to keep an eye on it and keep topping it up as a temporary solution if I don't wanna pay that much to replace the hoses, however, the coolant is expensive, like $60 for a gallon (orange colored), they said.
I checked the coolant and it does seem low on coolant, yet there is no water/coolant underneath the car when it's parked!
Any thoughts! ...............
I checked the coolant and it does seem low on coolant, yet there is no water/coolant underneath the car when it's parked!
Any thoughts! ...............
The Jaguar V8 is super sensitive to overheating. A leaking hose can turn into a burst hose followed by rapid overheating. There's too many reports on the forum of destroyed engines resulting from this for you to be complacent about it. Continual 'topping up' is very much a temporary fix and not a solution.
The hose your dealer has identified is a common failure. Many members have repaired this with a length of pipe and worm drive clip rather than buy a new hose. This is a perfectly satisfactory solution but still involves a lot of parts removal to get to the hose.
Graham
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Sam 2002XKR (07-20-2013)
#38
From your description, it's not a faulty coolant level sensor issue you have but a genuine coolant loss.
The Jaguar V8 is super sensitive to overheating. A leaking hose can turn into a burst hose followed by rapid overheating. There's too many reports on the forum of destroyed engines resulting from this for you to be complacent about it. Continual 'topping up' is very much a temporary fix and not a solution.
The hose your dealer has identified is a common failure. Many members have repaired this with a length of pipe and worm drive clip rather than buy a new hose. This is a perfectly satisfactory solution but still involves a lot of parts removal to get to the hose.
Graham
The Jaguar V8 is super sensitive to overheating. A leaking hose can turn into a burst hose followed by rapid overheating. There's too many reports on the forum of destroyed engines resulting from this for you to be complacent about it. Continual 'topping up' is very much a temporary fix and not a solution.
The hose your dealer has identified is a common failure. Many members have repaired this with a length of pipe and worm drive clip rather than buy a new hose. This is a perfectly satisfactory solution but still involves a lot of parts removal to get to the hose.
Graham
Now I know it's a serious issue with which I need to deal promptly
#39
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Sam 2002XKR (07-20-2013)
#40
Sam,
My 2002 XKR was getting the low coolant warning light about every 2-3 months, and I would find that I had to add less than a cup of coolant to top off and turn the sensor off. I never had any drips in my driveway, but could always smell a faint odor of coolant. We traced the leak to the same clump of heater hoses beneath and behind the supercharger. The fittings were leaking, there weren't any holes. We replaced them, and I haven't had any problems in more than a year and a half. As for the orange (long life) antifreeze, $60 per gallon is crazy, you can buy it in any auto parts store for less than a 1/3 of that price, and $1200 is too much to pay, as well. Find a reliable independent, as I did, and price it again.
My 2002 XKR was getting the low coolant warning light about every 2-3 months, and I would find that I had to add less than a cup of coolant to top off and turn the sensor off. I never had any drips in my driveway, but could always smell a faint odor of coolant. We traced the leak to the same clump of heater hoses beneath and behind the supercharger. The fittings were leaking, there weren't any holes. We replaced them, and I haven't had any problems in more than a year and a half. As for the orange (long life) antifreeze, $60 per gallon is crazy, you can buy it in any auto parts store for less than a 1/3 of that price, and $1200 is too much to pay, as well. Find a reliable independent, as I did, and price it again.
The following users liked this post:
Sam 2002XKR (07-20-2013)