This means bad shocks, doesn't it?
#21
I drilled a 1/4" hole through the flat part of the tongue that ends up on the inside of the coil. Jack the car, remove the wheel, pry the fourth coil from the top apart with a looong pry bar purchased from Harbor Freight, wedge in the insert and hit it with a hammer. Twist into final position with a 1/2" ratchet wrench. Tie with zip tie after positioning them by hand 60° apart (facing out) by prying the coils apart slightly. They clear the tires with plenty of space. They do raise the car by 1 inch so only add them if you're down to 14.5" clearance or so.
I am convinced when I replaced my coils springs this summer I was given the coupe springs which have a softer rate than the convertible version. If so, it would account for why the spacers do not give me the full inch.
I pulled them back off (what's the point in leaving them on) and maybe I can get my $10 back. Come spring, I am going to bite the bullet and replace the springs again with real Jag coils. Hopefully that will fix the ride height.
#22
Don't think any of the national chains carry the upper shock mounts. Online is your best bet as the Jag dealers are right proud of this part.
At 14" you have more of an issue than just upper shock mounts.
As mentioned above, you should also check your lower shock bushing (hint: you can often buy a new shock which includes the bushing for not much more than the bushing by itself).
At 14" you have more of an issue than just upper shock mounts.
As mentioned above, you should also check your lower shock bushing (hint: you can often buy a new shock which includes the bushing for not much more than the bushing by itself).
Left Side - Somewhat off center
Right Side - Way off center
So according to this thread, shock mounts are definitely perished. I then read up, in the forum stickys, on the procedure to change them. Realized that this could be a long drawn out process as I would likely discover more things wrong and you've confirmed this is likely the case.
I think I will order the mounts on line as you recommend. Still thinking about possibly going ahead and ordering some shocks with bushings as well. Any recommendations as to a source for a decent shock set with bushings?
Update: I've looked through the microfiche. Seems the upper shock mount is MJA2170AD. There are a couple of non-dealer sources. Some offer upgrade kits (my metal bits seem ok) for about the same price - thoughts on these????
The shock (ahem, damper) assembly is MJA2141DG and according to the drawing, includes the bushing. One source has the difference between the bushing and the shock with bushing at $80. If I'm wrong about the bushing being included, please tell me!
Last edited by beg3yrs; 01-03-2015 at 05:18 PM.
#23
Thanks for the info. Went out and got a view from the engine bay:
Left Side - Somewhat off center
Right Side - Way off center
So according to this thread, shock mounts are definitely perished. I then read up, in the forum stickys, on the procedure to change them. Realized that this could be a long drawn out process as I would likely discover more things wrong and you've confirmed this is likely the case.
I think I will order the mounts on line as you recommend. Still thinking about possibly going ahead and ordering some shocks with bushings as well. Any recommendations as to a source for a decent shock set with bushings?
Left Side - Somewhat off center
Right Side - Way off center
So according to this thread, shock mounts are definitely perished. I then read up, in the forum stickys, on the procedure to change them. Realized that this could be a long drawn out process as I would likely discover more things wrong and you've confirmed this is likely the case.
I think I will order the mounts on line as you recommend. Still thinking about possibly going ahead and ordering some shocks with bushings as well. Any recommendations as to a source for a decent shock set with bushings?
I just ordered shocks here: Jaguar XK8 1997 2006 Set of 2 Front Shock Absorber BE5 6726H0 | eBay
There are top shock mounts available on ebay too. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of ebay, no real reason, I just prefer Amazon or other real on line retailers, but ebay certainly has a good selection, and items are typically very competively priced.
#24
I just ordered shocks here: Jaguar XK8 1997 2006 Set of 2 Front Shock Absorber BE5 6726H0 | eBay
There are top shock mounts available on ebay too. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of ebay, no real reason, I just prefer Amazon or other real on line retailers, but ebay certainly has a good selection, and items are typically very competively priced.
There are top shock mounts available on ebay too. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of ebay, no real reason, I just prefer Amazon or other real on line retailers, but ebay certainly has a good selection, and items are typically very competively priced.
#25
On the shocks and mounts, have you tried Autopartswarehouse. Our sponsor SNG has been doing a good deal on the mounts. Lots of places have these items and SNG gives us Forum members 10%.
On the Poly mounts, not heard of any long term (10,000 mile) reports, I would properly go that route, but that's me.
Wayne
On the Poly mounts, not heard of any long term (10,000 mile) reports, I would properly go that route, but that's me.
Wayne
#26
Scott, there are many posts going back years on the forum about the correct shock for non CATS being the BE5-6726-H0...I am pretty confident about this being the correct part.
#27
I'm going to take these parts to my local Jag specialist (non-dealer) who has done good work for me in the past. I just don't trust myself to identify any other issues I may have in that area. Yes, I'm
#28
heat EXPANDS & cold CONTRACTS
when it's HOT outside, the air in the tires will have expanded a bit, pushing the tire OUTWARDS, no doubt enough to rub SOONER than before.
after driving for a while, the heat from that will heat the air in the tires and do the same thing, PUSH THE TIRE OUTWARDS, enough to rub SOONER.
when it's HOT outside, the air in the tires will have expanded a bit, pushing the tire OUTWARDS, no doubt enough to rub SOONER than before.
after driving for a while, the heat from that will heat the air in the tires and do the same thing, PUSH THE TIRE OUTWARDS, enough to rub SOONER.
#29
Caution using spacers
For those of you using spring spacers; don't think you have found a cheap fix that has no consequence. The spacers do load the spring adversely causing the spring to fail. Only use spacers when you are prepared to drive slowly and corner gently. You do not want a spring to break in the middle of a high speed turn. All it would take is an unseen pothole. This is probably the worst idea I have ever read in this forum. If a bush is worn out only replacement will repair it. If you must drive the car with spacers take it easy.
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johns427 (01-05-2015)
#30
For those of you using spring spacers; don't think you have found a cheap fix that has no consequence. The spacers do load the spring adversely causing the spring to fail. Only use spacers when you are prepared to drive slowly and corner gently. You do not want a spring to break in the middle of a high speed turn. All it would take is an unseen pothole. This is probably the worst idea I have ever read in this forum. If a bush is worn out only replacement will repair it. If you must drive the car with spacers take it easy.
+1
#31
Thanks for the good advice guys, it stands to reason that the spacers create a major stress concentration on the springs. The springs are quite robust so I'm hoping I don't have a problem down the road. I may try a different approach with a 360° 1" rubber spacer on the top of the coil and remove the twist-in spacers.
#32
#33
Thanks for the good advice guys, it stands to reason that the spacers create a major stress concentration on the springs. The springs are quite robust so I'm hoping I don't have a problem down the road. I may try a different approach with a 360° 1" rubber spacer on the top of the coil and remove the twist-in spacers.
you cut suspension, that works to the cars whole body.
PS: Sorry for my "english"
#34
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RJ237 (01-05-2015)
#35
Steve,
Except for having a larger center hole, I am using this type of spacer now to help the ride height. Works very well, but limited.
I agree with the previous posters that the AutoZone knuckle spacers are at best a temporary fix, not a permanent one. I removed the ones I tried the same day.
Just waiting until warmer weather to replace my too-soft (not worn out) springs.
Except for having a larger center hole, I am using this type of spacer now to help the ride height. Works very well, but limited.
I agree with the previous posters that the AutoZone knuckle spacers are at best a temporary fix, not a permanent one. I removed the ones I tried the same day.
Just waiting until warmer weather to replace my too-soft (not worn out) springs.
Last edited by Jag#4; 01-05-2015 at 07:10 PM.
#36
Thanks Steve,
I was going to search for your original post but you saved me. I made my spacers from a 3/8" thick cutting board, and like Mike, increased the center hole so that I could get a socket on the shock nut.
This spacer can be inserted without removing the shock/ spring assembly; just remove the three mount bolts and slide it in.
I was going to search for your original post but you saved me. I made my spacers from a 3/8" thick cutting board, and like Mike, increased the center hole so that I could get a socket on the shock nut.
This spacer can be inserted without removing the shock/ spring assembly; just remove the three mount bolts and slide it in.
Last edited by RJ237; 01-05-2015 at 07:20 PM. Reason: add sentance
#38
#39
Toaster, your English is fine. I realise the twist-in spacers stiffen the spring rate, but driving the car with the spacers has improved the ride and handling markedly.
I had a 1968 289 Mustang in the far distant past (1974) and used similar spacers when I put a 351W in it. They raised the car up just enough to counter the heavier engine and I never had a problem with it.
John S.
I had a 1968 289 Mustang in the far distant past (1974) and used similar spacers when I put a 351W in it. They raised the car up just enough to counter the heavier engine and I never had a problem with it.
John S.
#40
No spring compressor needed.
You need to jack up the front of the car and put on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the lower shock mount nut, leave the bolt in place for now, then remove the three nuts on the top of the shock tower in the engine bay. Don't worry about the whole thing falling out and onto the floor, it won't. Next, pull the upper control arm bolt out, but you can leave the ball joint attached. If you are not familiar with this procedure and have never replaced your upper control arm bushings, be aware of the shims placement (see Rev Sam's video for guidance) when you pull the control arm bolt, the shims will fall away - they need to go back in the same orientation. As you remove the control arm bolt, and are watching for the shims falling (not to be confused with the washers), be careful not to let the entire hub to flop toward you, putting stress on the brake hose. You are from the north east, so unless your control arm bolt has been out in the last year or two, it likely will be difficult to remove due to salt corrosion. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to remove, there are plenty of posts about this on the forum. Once the bolt is out, set the control arm back in place and stick the bolt in one end just a little to hold the hub up, then remove the lower shock bolt. Pull the control arm bolt out again, hold the hub with your knees or something else, pivot the control arm toward the back of the car and around the the shock, then pull the shock and spring assembly out. Place the control arm back in place and stick the bolt back in enough to keep it there. Now you have the shock and spring assembly out in one peice. As I said, you don't need a spring compressor if all you are doing is placing a shim on top of the shock mount. However, if your shock mounts are bad, you should replace them, and to do that, you need a spring compressor. A couple of more points, if your upper control arm bushings are suspect, replace them now while it is apart. If you never have had these bushings out, best bet is to completely remove the control arm from the car, by popping the ball joint. Consider power flex bushings as replacements, I don't notice any ride difference, but very good improvement in tramlinig as compared to new factory bushes. Also, check the shock lower mount bushing, this is a common failure. If worn, it will affect ride height and can be felt in the ride and steering wheel on rough surfaces. So, if your car hasn't had any of this work done, you are likely looking at upper shock mounts, upper control arm bushings, and shocks (not much more $ than lower shock bushing).
Last edited by SteveJacks; 01-06-2015 at 06:05 AM.