There is a long list of things that fail more often than expected on the early models but if it has gotten to 12 years of age and is still moving then most of them have probably been addressed at least once. The first thing I would look for is maintainence records. The Jaguar dealer can provide a printout of all warranty repairs. Beyond that you are going to have look to previous owners.

Specific issues that are known to be problems are:

Nikasil cylinder coating failure - oil in duct to throttle body, compression
Secondary Cam chain tensioners failure - remove valve cover and look for an aluminum one, not plastic
Throttle body failure - restricted performance, DTCodes
Transmission failure - proper shifts, any record of fluid/filter service?
Waterpump failure - overheating, blown head gasket, tensioner failure, nikasil failure
Front wheel bearing failure
Front suspension failure - tire wear
Convertiable top hydraulic hose failure - leaks out of overhead console
Various electronic unit failure - seat module, anti lock brake module, ECU, TCU

Other than that these are wonderful cars!

If the paint and interior are in reasonable shape andthe engine and transmission in working order you can easily fix the rest considering the mentioned purchase price. I did mention you. I might have second thoughts if you are going to take it to dealer/independent shop for repairs.

 

TP is correct. If you do the work... maybe OK. Set aside $3-4000 for parts and upgrades. If you can't do the work, this car will be a dealer inspired money pit.

 

TP (< ha ha) got most of them, but also consider

- telescoping/tilting steering wheel units / horrible stripping plastic gear sounds, then no movement
- CCV and vent tube corrosion / DTC code "emission leak - small"
- headrest up/down / motor runs but headrest goes nowhere

 

Yeah, I know . . . I could have added several more but I didn't want to discourage the guy.

Couple more thoughts . . . if the engine does not meet compression specifications on all cylinders because of high mileage, lack of maintainance, bent valves due to tensioner failure, Nikasil failure orhead gasketdue to waterpump/thermostat overheating then the $5600 is a couple thousand too high. If the transmission does not shift correctly now or a month from now a rebuild is $2500.

On the other hand, it may be a real steal. My first car, 2000 XK8 at $11k,was bought cheap because the owner had $10k in backed up repairs and always had work done at the dealer. With $1k in parts, $1K in tires and 6 months of hobby labor found that I had an engine that met new car compression specifications, a transmission that had been dealer replaced 18k miles before anda complete front end rebuild by the dealer 12k miles earlier and even a new battery. There had been $19k of dealer repairs done to that car over the previous 20k miles. Wish I could claim to be smart enough to have known all that before purchase.

 

Test Point you make it sound so easy to look if i have a aluminum chain tensioner, i was looking and i looks as if i have to take off the belt, pulleys, and the valve cover to expose this piece. is there an easier way?

 

You do have to remove a valve cover unless you have a fiberoptic camera. That does involve removing the coil packs but that is not difficult. The cover gaskets are really seals and can probably be reused unless thereare signs of oil leaks. No belts, pulleys involved.

The first time I pulled one I was concerned too, like home surgery on one of the children. Nothing to it. Remove the air filter to throttle body duct if you choose the right side. While off check for cracksat the bellows section bottom. The coolant reservoir for the left.

 

Sonny, have you spoken to the owner yet? The car is 2000 miles away from the unpublishedlandline. Last ad I saw like this had been lifted by the "seller" directly from an eBay listing. I don't know what people hope to gain by this sort of stuff, but I don't think either of us will be buying that car.

 

Sho' 'nuff, that car is listed on eBay right now by a dealer in Lake Bluff, Illinois. His 'Buy It Now' is $8995, which is about $2K too high. The person who listed it in Michigan on Autotrader is a fraud, and used the dealer's photos (except the ones which show his dealer plate).

I wish someone would explain the benefit ofthis practice to me.What's also bafflingis that Autotrader allows this to happen repeatedly, and has not done anything in response to the email I sent them this morning. Time to turn off the computer, anymore it seems like just a vacuum for valuable time.