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Along these lines. jeje, what is the model year of your car?
As a short story, my MY 2001 had had the INST fix from the TSB on manufacture (2001 vin 18534), but at least two of the joints on the INST connector looked like crap (and all of the joints on the gear illumination module and several on the ABS module. The gear illumination module connector appeared to have been soldered by a toddler after consuming an energy drink.). Don't know whether that fixed anything since I systematically resoldered every joint from ABS to the INST through the gear illumination module trying to find my intermittent problem that ended up being the ECM rebooting at random times. Different codes, however, pointed at the ECM in that case (U2500, P1637, P1797 among others).
My XKR is a 02/2001.
I checked the INST panel (there has been a Jag bulletin, http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/...%20failure.pdf ) but not concerned.
I will check the gear module, when waiting the ABS module : nothing to lose!!!?
My XKR is a 02/2001.
I checked the INST panel (there has been a Jag bulletin, http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/...%20failure.pdf ) but not concerned.
I will check the gear module, when waiting the ABS module : nothing to lose!!!?
Yours (manufactured the same month as the earliest of mine) should have been manufactured after the fix to the primary INST problem.
The gear illumination module is below the shifter. So, the only thing you have to lose is time...
Console out as per Rev Sam's video. It really is a 5 minute job, T30 torx, hotel keys or credit cards (I find cutting them in half makes it quicker when you know where the tabs are), #2 phillips head screwdriver
The rest is more involved. Then take off the shift knob. (Protect the bolt with tape or something to prevent scarring from the wrench, twist bolt down releasing the knob, screw off knob and bolt).
Then remove the two connectors to the shift fascia, remove the shift fascia and disassemble. It's in the middle of the assembly, and that thing on the edge of the board is not a connector. The wires are soldered to the board. Helpful thread below
Though this is probably not the source of your problem, if you decide to do this, you might want to replace the two incandescent lightbulbs on the board that provide the backlighting for the J-gate, as opposed to the gear shift indicators that are LEDs. They are quite likely dead as indicated by the blackish color and lack of function, and they need to be desoldered and new ones resoldered. Suggestions for the bulbs are in the thread above.
There have been issues even with 'new modules' (e.g. madhatter). However, the first line of defense is to look at the whole CAN bus (the electronics connecting ABS, ECM, TCM and the Instrument Panel). You need the ABS module connected to the system. As noted above by fmertz, if the module is not connected, the electronics do not work. The ODBII connector is under the left side of the dash near the bonnet latch. Looks like this
From CAN Network Integrity Check without WDS
– With the ignition switched OFF, connect a voltmeter between pin 6 (CAN high [+]) and pin 14 (CAN low [-]). A reading of around 60 Ω indicates a good CAN bus:
< 60 Ω indicates a short circuit on the bus
> 60 Ω indicates high resistance on the bus (e.g. around 120 means that the ABS module is likely not electrically connected to the rest of the bus)
– Disconnect the Voltmeter from the DLC and switch to the voltage scale.
– Switch the ignition ON to position II.
– Connect the DVOM between DLC pin 6 (CAN high [+]) and ground. The measured value should be 2.7 V
– Connect the DVOM between DLC pin 14 (CAN low [-]) and ground. The measured value should be 2.5 V
Hey man....
Wondering where this diagram can be found and if there is any other/more information/specs on the other pins...?
When last working on the scuba diving xkr,,, the one stopped taking readings.... Need to figure out why. I neeeeeds it
Hey man....
Wondering where this diagram can be found and if there is any other/more information/specs on the other pins...?
When last working on the scuba diving xkr,,, the one stopped taking readings.... Need to figure out why. I neeeeeds it
Probably more useful than a diagram, the ODBII connector is called the 'Data Link Connector' in the electronics manuals. Figure 21.1 in the 2002 MY Electrical Guide.
But, the network is generally simple. A bus (set of wires with terminators at both ends) with various things hanging off of it. At some point you may want to get a CAN logger or a scope to give you a clue about what is happening and what is not happening. OBD code and car function diagnosis seems really difficult when large numbers of things go wrong, not just a couple of things.
Last edited by crbass; 01-03-2020 at 04:28 PM.
Reason: Correcting model year
Probably more useful than a diagram, the ODBII connector is called the 'Data Link Connector' in the electronics manuals. Figure 21.1 in the 2002 MY Electrical Guide.
But, the network is generally simple. A bus (set of wires with terminators at both ends) with various things hanging off of it. At some point you may want to get a CAN logger or a scope to give you a clue about what is happening and what is not happening. OBD code and car function diagnosis seems really difficult when large numbers of things go wrong, not just a couple of things.
Understood
Kinda understood, lol
And
Understood
I have been on the fence about the scope (honestly it's a money thing) but I have a friend who may be loaningme this weekend. I want to solve this fueling problem... Then,,, a new learning curve with the scope. I've been getting instructions on YouTube... I'll look into the CAN Logger...
Not at all! Totally differents : one UK, the other deutsch
So, next trick is to check the CAN wiring from ABS to ECM and power to the ABS, and to confirm that the codes are exactly the same as before (i.e. you reset and the exact same codes came back, no more, no less). Power is probably a worthwhile check, but for the CAN bus continuity...
... you've already determined that the bus is properly terminated on both sides, including in the ABS which is some kind of check of the wires. So, it is still likely that either the ABS is not talking (or talking properly), or the ECM and TCM are not receiving. If you have the same codes, they still seem to indicate the ABS.
Do you have access to any kind of CAN bus tool like an oscilloscope or sniffer that reads SAE J1939 signals? If so, you could look for the ABS heartbeat first. If that's not showing up, or has a different value than 14, as happened recently around here with several ABS modules that Mad Hatter had, then the ABS is still the problem. If that's transmitted, then you can look at the other ABS signals, or the ECM signals, etc.
However, perhaps the first order of business is to determine if the module you put in the car is 'known good'. Did it come from an XK8 (i.e. is it programmed for an XK8) and been shown to work in an XK8? These Ate-Teves ABS modules are everywhere, but XK8 programming is specific.
Note added: Did you do the CAN bus resistance check again with this module?
Well, it is very difficult to find a "known good" ABS module. I'm trying to find another XKR to try my current module on it.
When you say "it has to be programmed", that means that even if the reference is OK (LNF2210AD for me), there can be programming difference in accordance to the specific car model ?
Another point : how to check the CAN wiring between ABS and ECM? I apologize but I'm not sure I would be able to use an oscilloscpoe without a huge amount of lessons!!!
Well, it is very difficult to find a "known good" ABS module. I'm trying to find another XKR to try my current module on it.
When you say "it has to be programmed", that means that even if the reference is OK (LNF2210AD for me), there can be programming difference in accordance to the specific car model ?
Another point : how to check the CAN wiring between ABS and ECM? I apologize but I'm not sure I would be able to use an oscilloscpoe without a huge amount of lessons!!!
Yes, understand on the "known good". With the right part number from Jag, I'd expect it to be okay. With the right part number from a similar model, same. From an online vendor, it may not be particularly clear. Good strategy to try the module in another car of your era.
The CAN wiring is easier. You are familiar with the ABS side connector, the ECM side connector is accessed in the box on the right hand side of the engine compartment, under the small cover towards the windshield. The electrical diagram is in Figure 21.1 in the 2001 electrical guide. The connector for the ABS has two CAN pins, 5 (yellow wire) and 15 (green wire). The easiest thing would be to bridge these two connectors with a small piece of wire (i.e. connect them together electrically). Then go to the ECM side for the input CAN pins 24 (yellow) and 15 (green) and check the resistance between 24 and 15. It should be small. There will be two other CAN pins (the output side, pins 16 (green) and 25 (yellow) which should also have continuity if the module is connected, but will not if the connector is off. My prediction, however, is that this will be fine.
I got an ABS module from Module Repair Pro, California. And...it works!!!!!Errors have gone!!!
I didn't have time enough to check everything but it seems that I now only have the P1720 error code.
It was the third ABS module I bought. The only difference was that Module Repair Pro asked me if it was for a XK8 or XKR. They told me there is a programing difference (despite it is the same reference).
I got an ABS module from Module Repair Pro, California. And...it works!!!!!Errors have gone!!!
I didn't have time enough to check everything but it seems that I now only have the P1720 error code.
It was the third ABS module I bought. The only difference was that Module Repair Pro asked me if it was for a XK8 or XKR. They told me there is a programing difference (despite it is the same reference).
Victory!!! (for now...)
Fantastic! Seems to be an unfortunate amount of this going around. Probably because there are many, many of the same/similar Ate/Teves ABS modules on the planet, only some of them programmed for the XK8/R.
Perhaps LNF2210AD is the OEM (unprogrammed) module code?
I think one central issue is that the modules contain programming that tells the CAN bus it's the correct module for the car (ABS CAN heartbeat=14 for the XK8/R instead of ABS CAN heartbeat=c4, for example, which Mad Hatter recently had trouble with on two modules) . I suspect the modules for the XK8/R and XJ8 have the same markings, but the XJ8 is going to send a different ID code to the bus than the XK8/R, probably among other things, causing the car to ignore it, no matter what else is happening.
Unfortunately, this is really simple to see in an existing unit with a CAN logger (probably SDD/IDS too), but not with a OBD reader.
01-03-2020, 02:45 AM
