Well Tex Murphy, welcome to the club. I see you have the bug. My XK8 is the same color, looks smart. Best advise I can give you other than take part in this great web site is find a good specialty shop with plenty of Jag XK8 experience. I was lucky to find a one man shop who specialty is Jag refurbish. XKE's, etc. Some work I do, others my Jag guy is more than happy to help. Build a relationship and trust and you will be ok. Rich

 

I don't personally have any experience with the rust issue since my XK8 is a California car and has been garaged and obviously well cared for, at least I can't find any sign of rust in a very careful inspection, but I have seen some real horror stories where they have been exposed to road salt. A couple of example photos in this thread, but plenty more if you search around, including some very impressive well executed repair jobs. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-trap-156959/

 

Was reading up on the suspension on many posts. I was originally thinking of going standard bushings, but the powerflex or similar look interesting. Read a few posts where some that installed poly thought they were a little too responsive or harsh. I spent some time on their website and it appears they offer 3 different hardness levels. Anyone have a comment what they installed? I was curious if the softer poly might be a good middle ground.

 

Tex, We (Jon89), used the Welsh top shock mount kit on his wife's 2006 XK8 and all concerned were happy and not harsh on the ride. Now, if all the bushings were poly, might be a little firm. We also used poly on the upper control arms on the front, much better and not bad to install.
The wear factor on the normal front bushings is not a big issue, so standard will last a long time, the sway bar is the one area that makes things go bump in the night.


Good luck and there is a write up somewhere on our adventure.


Wayne

 

Cjd777,
Did you guys use the purple poly powerflex?
I was also looking at the shock top from Welsh, does it have poly inside? You think it was better than stock style aftermarket?

 

Hi Tex, This link covers my experience on replacing the secondary tensioners. If you have any questions you can contact me directly.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-how-52653/

 

I got my first easy one done on getting engine mount bolts in tonight. Forgive the double post just trying to get it all in the single stream of posts on the car.
I received the steering hoses today, and a former owner of a Jag did me a large favor both hoses for less than the price of one. One still sealed in the Jag plastic bag and the other obviously new with covers still on the ends. Going to get these on tomorrow, as it is what has stopped me from test driving due to spraying oil when added from the pressure hose. Close examination from under car showed the cooler hose leaking in quick disconnect the spot many have repaired but also oiled on the other end as well.

two hoses in my hands for $60 deal, some tells me that might be the best parts deal I get

 

Ball joints question for you guys.
So anyone think it is realistic to think I it can be done with hand tools or a resounding no its never been done?

I have done a bunch over the years and recently had the opportunity to rebuild the f-150 as 175K it had too much slack for the new tires it needs. I used a large set of tools they had in the loaner program to do the truck and it made pretty short work of it with just over an hour per side to put on a top A or wishbone with ball and bushing already in one piece (they were $5 more than parts to rebuild) and press in and out the bottom ball joint.
I read the bottom ball joint is a real piece of work with posts about using 20 ton presses and many taking to machine shop.

 

Tex,
You say you are not a mechanic by trade. You do seem to have the Jaguar spirit. I've had 8 of them and all have been a treat to own and repair. I just got # 8 and am new to this forum though I have spent hours on jaglovers.com. I visited their site and didn't find any 2004 XJ8 forum. This forum seems to have a helpful and hearty batch of helpers. I think I 2ill benefit from being on this site.
Speaking as a Jag owner since 1968, I think you have a great outlook and the car will be proud to have you as HER new owner.
Jag Nut

 

Hi Jag Nut,
Thanks for the words of encouragement. As I am have to admit I am excited about getting greasy today. Are you OK and in Oklahoma, Mom's side of the family from there? Will need to keep you in mind for PM questions if I get stuck on something.

 

Tex, here is write up on the poly front and where it all came from. Kind of long but gives a what and why.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...gnment-154395/


Follow post by Race Diagnosis for some fun and games on the ball joints and some other exciting adventures.


Wayne
Tex, as a side note, give the Thanks a check, down in the right corner when someone helps or just give you a chuckle.

 

Power steering line replacement.

So just cleaned up from power steering pressure side hose replacement and while I am going to do the cooler since I was so lucky to get the deal on it, I ran into a couple of things that meant getting back in the same spot so I am waiting on it as it is a leak but not running fluid and probably just the O rings in quick disconnect that have started leaking. Good news is I put some fluid in it and no more squirting oil and was able to do my first drive around the block. Trans shifting okay so my hope factor is up considerably and I don't think it is going to be a " What the heck have I got myself into moment this week after all". She actually does drive....Yea!!!!
So my findings on doing the hose swap, and to mostly repeat what I learned from reading other posts that surely saved me time.

Removal
1. Remove end at rack and allow to start draining. Large metal pan like they sell in auto section with regular oil catch pan did the trick.

Big circle line to trans line I think as mine was hanging loose. Small circle where you will see tie wrap. Arrow where there was a special electric to metal line clip that was taped to electrical. Didn't reuse any of these. Used two tie wraps to line to secure electrical.



A. There was a tie wrap where rubber hose started holding on electrical
B. There was a metal line clamp to same electrical in your field of view if looking at line to rack attachment location.
C. There was a plastic line separator behind the rack on mine that I guess used to be on the trans cooler line, probably hanging since trans line was was changed with trans rebuild by PO.
2. Using a crowfoot/flare (true line wrench type although came loose easy enough a regular claw foot should do) the pump end came off easily. Watch your eyes and draining fluid.
3. Removal of hose from car was worst part, feeding it from rack end out things are tight in there, I ripped the insulation off and it gave me a little room. Hose was stiff and I used a method of feed and pull using both hands. Be careful due to routing the wiring to the rack is right there waiting to be damaged on side/back of rack.

Installation (big thanks to those that shared on this madness) as knowing the routing was different was very helpful.
1. Start with pump end of hose and feed on opposite side of rack from original (mine was 97 factory hose) toward front of car. It is tight but with two hands you can work it through and let it hang out the other end while you work the rack end into place. The insulation around line might want to slide toward rack end. Once pump end was hanging I bolted the hose to rack.
So I looped under the trans lines pulled off the cover on the threads and basically straight up I set line in pump. Hardest part of hose installation was getting it lined up and started at the pump. When in place the hose is pushing itself out of alignment so I took a long ratchet handle and braced against the hose where it curved up toward the pump pushing it back slightly toward the rack maybe 1/2 inch at most. That was the magic, then properly aligned I used the suggested left hand twisted backward from above to get a turn on it to be sure it was not cross threading. Then back to the crow foot/flare (5/8) underneath to tighten.

Here was the 97 model hose that gave up in the usual location just behind the rack.




Here is where I let the hose hang out as I put the line to rack end on.




Here is one of the two things I found that caused me to postpone the cooler line install. That is a very busted sway bar bushing I found when removing the air box




Here is my right engine mount that is also busted, second reason I am waiting on cooler hose. Good new is driver side engine mount looks better. Probably already replaced.


So this is bragging towed home on trailer 4 hours plus taking trailer back to U-haul. 2 hours scratch head, 4 hours or more of reading posts, wait for screaming deal on parts to arrive, 2 hours to setup car on rack stands and swap hose. I got to drive the car 5 minutes to test. How is that so far....12 hours working VS 5 minutes driving Ha Ha it is going to get better.


Back outside to diagnose what I need for front end, I saw some replacement bushings newer than 1997, but many parts needed to make it whole again and safe to drive.

 

As for the ball joints, the top are no problem, the bottom are a PIA. Some have used a variety of solutions to get them out and most difficult getting them back in. I opted for a machine shop for $35 per side.

 

I think I may have come to the same conclusion on the lower ball joints. I have pressed out a few in my day but the more I look at it the more I am considering paying for that part. The balance is a no brainer bunch of knuckle busting..ha ha..
I stopped by to eye ball the giant set of C clamp style I used from parts store on the truck since it had more than I have ever seen in parts, but it was out for loan.

Has anyone been successful doing the lower ball joints at home?

Today I tested all the front end parts, it is a total do over time. Measuring comparison left to right fender well edge to top of tire clearance one side is slightly lower, shock top looks like a bunch of cracked up foam, movement in every joint.
What is your best guess for hieght difference, a combo of everything or one part I should be looking at?
Any of you run in to spring stress failure with high mileage?
Bounce test didn't reveal a large up and down but I was surprised how little down it had and another reason I was wonder about springs wearing.
How much clearance do you guys have looking from side from top of tire to edge of fender?

 

I just bought a 2000 XK8 coupe (My first Jag) in the same color as yours and these cars are even more beautiful in person. It's really amazing to see how well the design has aged. How were you able to tell the suspension was worn out? Mine seems OKAY but I know a lot of times you cant tell unless the rims are off...

 

Kay,
Well as you read i had steering issue upon purchase to start. I saw obvious lean in at top of tire. Reading many posts for potential issues, but other than obvious i jacked up the car front end and started testing joints with pry bar. If you can jack up the front correctly high enough to get a pry bar and lever ( two pieces of 2x4 will do as you lever under tire you should see your issues in all parts worn). Something you learn turning wrenches for years. My first test drive has popping sounds. Tell tell signs like top shock bushing cracks all around. Bottom line from experience is front end parts last max about 10 years or about 100k whichever comes first, after that you repair or wear tires faster than you should..

 

Here's the factory spec from JTIS

 

Okay guys what am I doing wrong here
Looking at parts I would guess all is factory original on springs, shock, ball joints...
Good news is Rear is height is within 1/4 inch of specs.
Measuring front what I have now is close to 13 1/2 on each side from center of wheel to center of arch. Basically holding a tape measure with dumb end on the fender edge and reading approximate center of the center cap.
I know shock top is bad can see cracks in foam. Bottom shock bushing is also obviously failing, and slack in all bushings. Possibly some height loss at ball joint but couldn't be much there.
Is it reasonable to have that much loss in height due to bushing and ball joint wear, if I read this it is over two inches lower than originally designed?
Have others of you found the springs in these cars to be weak and failing in the 100K mile range?

 

Tex,

I'll defer to Wayne (cjd777) for the final recommendation here but I'm guessing you'll probably want to do the same thing Wayne and I did to my wife's 2006 XK8's front end about six weeks ago: new front shocks (I went with Bilsteins from fcpeuro.com), new front upper shock mounts (I went with the poly kit from Welsh Enterprises), new front upper control arm bushings (I went with a poly kit from ebay seller "michaeldriver12345" in the UK), and new shock bellows & bump stops (I went with a kit from parksgeek.com). Took us all day using Wayne's air-powered tools and big presses but the results were well worth it. The measured height from the center of the wheel cap to the edge of the fender directly above both front wheels is now slightly more than 16 inches and the car tracks dead-on straight again as it approaches 100,000 miles....

The factory ball joints and springs were fine so we left them in place....

I spent right at $550 on parts and used every discount I was eligible for....

 

Tex, the "C-Clamp" ball joint removers won't budge the Lowers. I turned my air up to 90 psi and used a 275 lbft air rachet (that breaks stuff) on the Clamp and it just stalled out.

With my new 20 ton press I think it took more force to press in the new ones than it did to press out the originals, so I don't think the loan-a-tool ball joint C-Clamps can be used to install the new joints, either. The parts in the kit are useful for pressing stuff, so I still loaned it, I just didn't use it as intended.