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My Indy Mechanic wants big bucks for rear bearings

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  #21  
Old 06-08-2010, 04:50 PM
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^^^^ matt i have extras, i get them and if the old dont come apart i save them, just because theyre deamed expendable 1 use only
 
  #22  
Old 06-08-2010, 06:15 PM
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Had the same problem with stripped nuts when my bearing was replaced. Had to wait for dealer to supply nuts. BTW my 2003 XKR had 17xxx miles at the time.
 
  #23  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:28 PM
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thanks brutal, if it was going to take more than another day to get it in and put together, I'd arrange some way of getting them from Houston, like my FedEX account. He assures me they'll be here by 3pm, and after an install, re-alignment on the front, and a test drive, I'll be good to go before sundown.

Cross your fingers! Spare nuts, you think they would have thought of that before the day the car was to be finished. They're way behind; car dropped off yesterday morning, they started the tear down on the wheel bearings today.
 
  #24  
Old 06-09-2010, 06:23 PM
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Man I'm hot, and I'm not talking about the weather.

Picked my car up today after an extra day of installation due to the axle nut issue, no big deal...sucked it up and got a ride to/from work.

Got the call my car was ready at 4:30, drove on over (with my coworker as my chauffeur) and proceeded inside with 5 minutes to closing. The owner was at the counter, and he told me everything went back together and the rattle (metal banging noise) I heard was gone. I trusted him, because he told me on the phone yesterday he wanted to take it for a test drive personally.

Bill comes to $4 shy of $1600, and he proceeds to clean out my checking account with this bill, seriously, i have $10 to my name. I even mentioned when I brought my car in, that I may not be able to pay for the inner tie rod, as I only had $1400 budgeted for this repair, and he quoted me $1200 plus tax for just the wheel bearings.

For that $1600, I got (1) a new modified s-type inner tie rod, that apparently I needed, but did not complain about it on my initial visit and (2) the rear wheel bearings replaced (showed as a halfshaft rebuild on my invoice). You guessed it, 5 hours each side for the rebuild.

I swallowed my pride, and took my last $10 out to drive away. I pull down the street and I kid you not, the rattle is as loud as ever...just over cracks and bumps as the car 'shakes' at slow speeds. I about blew a blood vessel right there on that side street. How can anyone miss that noise!!! Was the A/C on full blast?..radio was on too when I started her up.

I didn't turn around, I needed to cool off and clear my head. I've decided to go back tomorrow (w/o an appointment), and I need advice on how to approach the shop owner about this. I can't afford any more out-of-pocket costs until next week, but I want it fixed correctly.

I need your input guys, as emotions are really influencing my plans.
 

Last edited by H20boy; 06-09-2010 at 06:25 PM.
  #25  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:37 PM
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Here's a video of the wheel noise, you can clearly hear it...going about 5 mph


 
  #26  
Old 06-09-2010, 10:45 PM
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If you lift the car on a lift and tap the handbrake cable with the back of your hand you can duplicate the noise if the cable is a little loose. Turn the 13mm nut on the threaded rod until the noise stops when the cable is 'tapped'. (that is what it sounded like to me??) The wind was making noise so it was a little hard to hear.

bob gauff
 
  #27  
Old 06-10-2010, 07:51 AM
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Hi Bob, I have been under the car so many times prior to bringing this car in, and the cable adjustment (where it share's the tug with each side) is tight, it doesn't even hit anything when I slap it around myself. When I had my wheel off the very last time I was hunting for this, I grabbed the rotor (after putting a couple lug nuts back on to keep it secure to the hub) and could move it with my hands easily in the 12-6 direction, smacking something metal-metal contact that recreates this noise.

You can't see it in the video, due to camera shake, but when I was hanging over the side of the passenger door watching the wheel, you can visually see the wheel move in/out at the top when its making the noise.

Headed off to the shop in a few minutes. Wish me luck.
 
  #28  
Old 06-10-2010, 09:43 AM
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Looking forward to hearing good news
 
  #29  
Old 06-10-2010, 11:19 AM
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Update
___________________________________

I was successful in enlightening my mechanic, and the owner of the shop with regards to my continuing noise in the RR wheel. They put the car on the 'drive ramp' and believe that the noise is reproducible when pushing up on the bottom of the shock. RR has the noise, the LR makes no rattle. Their next guess now is the lower bushing on the shock is bad, and wants to replace the shock since the bushing isn't available separately (or this is the easier route?)

I am considering a second opinion, as I am going to remove the wheel and see if my 12-6 movement in the hub is still making a metal-metal clanging...which if it is...the lower shock bushing would not be the cause.

I am racking my brain on this one, could the rear shim kit that the dealer installed a year and a half ago have come loose, off causing the noise? I mean, it is afterall only in the in the 12-6 direction, which the shim kit was supposed to aid in the camber spec adjustment. Just brainstorming...

Sending you a PM Bob.
 
  #30  
Old 06-10-2010, 12:05 PM
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If that shim came loose you would have big issues. As far as the bushing, its avail on the stype but im pretty sure its different size and type on the xk. Spray some think white grease in the bushing off the ground and see if noise changes or goes away. And if you can do it pushing on the car without driving, then take out the lower bolt and see if it changes. Actually do that first and before you put back in lube in and around the bushing and bolt hole. Also check the brake backing plate for loosness, and verify the park brake shoe retaining pins are properly seated in the back plate. You can see them from the back
 
  #31  
Old 06-10-2010, 12:44 PM
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thanks brutal, will take your advice on the above as more sources to check. I feel another video coming from the garage with the wheel off.
 
  #32  
Old 06-21-2010, 06:52 PM
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A happy ending (and not the asian massage type)

New shock fixed my incredibly annoying rattle/knock. Yay!!!

The lower bushing was kaput and as brutal suspected, banging up and down on the lower bolt on travel up and down (and that's alot of noise). Just replaced the bad one, and so far, I can't tell any difference with the new one on one side, and the 7yr old shock on the other. Let's hope it stays that way. I can't visually see a ride height difference so no problem there.
 
  #33  
Old 06-21-2010, 08:39 PM
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glad to hear it Matt, and FYI on the shocks, it just gives a tetter totter effect over bumps. How bad depends on how worn the old shock is....Im just a PAIRS type of guy
tires, shocks, breast, all are best when in pairs...
 
  #34  
Old 06-21-2010, 09:20 PM
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I too believe in the almight pairs that be, and I'll keep that in mind Brutal...when my daily drive around town starts bringing back memories of the playground at 2nd grade recess, I'll jump on that 2nd shock. I'd like to tackle it on my own, maybe with some help from Bob up in Decatur as he's got this pry-bar method thats supposed to cut down on time instead of releasing that pivot pin...my first shock and all! (not to be confused with 'shock and awe')
 
  #35  
Old 06-21-2010, 10:05 PM
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So am I to understand that the $1000+ dollar repair that your mech did wasn't really necessary and the problem was nothing but a worn shock bushing?
 
  #36  
Old 06-22-2010, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Reverend Sam
So am I to understand that the $1000+ dollar repair that your mech did wasn't really necessary and the problem was nothing but a worn shock bushing?
Yes, and it was $1300 for the wheel bearings. Im still eating PB&J from that bill.
 
  #37  
Old 06-22-2010, 02:01 AM
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i would be talking to the owner seriously and demanding some money back for his missed diagnosis...you are a better man than i am for accepting it.. i would be sitting at his dinner table every night till payday or he would be payingme back. There is no excuse for a mechanic misdiagnosing something and charging that amount.. they knew the bearings were fine as they were taking them out...i would dare bet the SOB didnt even change the other side.. i would have a close look to see if they even did change them
 
  #38  
Old 06-22-2010, 08:24 AM
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Do you ever ask the mechanics to give you the used parts back?

It's not something I like to do because I don't want to give the impression that I'm mistrustful, but I do sometimes ask to see the part that was replaced, just for my own education and so I can explain it to my husband who will ask (unless he comes with me to see for himself). Of course there's no guarantee that the part you are seeing actually came from your car, but I would think it would cut down on the chances that you were charged for a repair that wasn't actually done.

I'm pretty sensitive to being taken for a ride because I'm female, so I try to be as knowledgeable as possible, and/or ask lots of questions, which can make me a big pain in the rear.
 
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  #39  
Old 06-22-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bigexpectations
i would be talking to the owner seriously and demanding some money back for his missed diagnosis...you are a better man than i am for accepting it.. i would be sitting at his dinner table every night till payday or he would be payingme back. There is no excuse for a mechanic misdiagnosing something and charging that amount.. they knew the bearings were fine as they were taking them out...i would dare bet the SOB didnt even change the other side.. i would have a close look to see if they even did change them
GEEZ THIS IS PRETTY HARSE, i CAN TELL YOU EXPERIANCE THAT YOU DONT HIT ALL NOISES AT ONCE. WHEEL BEARING DO GO BAD AND THESE ARE VERY SUSCEPTABLE AND NEED TO BE CHANGED WHEN THEY BECOME TOO LOOSE. PICKING OUT 1 NOISE OVER ANOTHER IS NOT VERY CUT N DRY. JUST LIKE COOLANT LEAKS, YOU PRESSURE TEST TO FIND ONE, THEN IT GOES OUT THE NEXT WEEKEST SPOT. IT IS THIS TYPE OF ATTITUDE FROM THE PUBLIC EN MASS THAT MAKES US AS PROFFESSIONAL MECHANICS WANT TO REBUILD EVERYTHING IN THE SUSPENSION (OR WHATEVER WE'RE DEALING WITH) CAUSE PEOPLE WILL LET A DOCTOR TELL YOU "LETS TRY THIS TREATMENT AND SEE HOW IT WORKS. IF THAT DOESNT WORK THEN THIS TREATMENT". OR ATTORNEYS THAT GIVE INCORRECT LEGAL ADVISE THAT YOU PAY THEM $1000'S FOR AND COST YOU $1000'S TOO. OH WAIT I FORGOT, THAT'S WHY THEY CALL THEM "PRATICING MEDICINE AND PRACTICING LAW" YES THERE ARE MISDIAGNOSIS ALL THE TIME, BUT THEN THERE ARE THINGS THAT NEED TO BE DONE, THAT MAY OR MAY NOT BE THE ISSUE. OR AT LEAST NOT ALL OF THE ISSUES.
I JUST HAD A CUSTOMER YESTURDAY THAT KEPT TELLING ME THE LEFT FRONT SHOCK WAS NOISY ON HIS 2010 XF AND WAS VERY ADAMANT THAT I CHANGE IT FOR THE NOISE. AND YES I LISTENED TO IT WITH CHASSIS EARS, AND WHILE IT DID "SEEM TO" EMMANATE FRONT THE SHOCK, IT DIDNT SOUND LIKE A SHOCK NOISE I EVER HEARD, BUT TO MAKE HIM HAPPY I CHANGED IT, AND THE NOISE STILL THERE...WHAT I FOUND WERE SLIGHTLY LOOSE HOOD LATCHES THAT RATTLE AT A CERTAIN SPEED AND ROAD SURFACE. THE NOISE IS GONE NOW AND HE'S HAPPY. THE POINT IS DIAGNOSIS IS JUST AS MUCH ELIMINATING THE OBVIOUSE, AND WORKING YOUR WAY THROUGH A "LIST OF SUSPECTS" THIS IS ANOTHER REASON I PRETTY MUCH DECLINE TO WORK ON NOISES, BECAUSE IVE BEEN BURNED SEVERAL TIMES WITH THE OLD "NO THAT WASNT IT, OR NOW I HEAR SOMETHING ELSE, OR ITS DOING IT AGAIN" NOISES ARE TOUGH AT TIMES AND I NOR OTHERS LIKE TO BE "MARRIED" TO A CAR OVER NOISES. IF YOU DEAL WITH WHAT WE DEAL WITH (WALK A DAY OR YEAR IN OUR SHOES) AND YOULL HAVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDUING RATHER THAN A BLATANT "SCREW EM, I WANT A REFUND AND FIX MY CAR FOR FREE NOW" ATTITUDE
SEE ON HERE I GIVE LOTS OF "FREE INFO AND HELP" YOUR COSTS IS I AM GONNA TELL YOU HOW I FEEL ABOUT ISSUES AND STATEMENTS LIKE THIS..
HAVE A BETTER DAY
 
  #40  
Old 06-22-2010, 09:20 AM
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Thanks guys, and indeed I did calm down alot since this first started.

Ann, I am alot like you, and I often request the old parts if its in question. In this case, it was evident that the parts were replaced.

After the wheel bearings were changed, I did check the play again in the hub...it was very tight, much more so than before I brought it in. I justify the big repair job as something that would eventually have to be done on this car (at 110,000 miles) and I may have just sped up the repair job by a bit.

Since our diagnostic meeting with the owner, he's been overly kind and extremely talkative to me, about my car and any other subject I even remotely broach. I believe, that is his way of making reparations for his foul behavior previously. He's an older guy, and perhaps his pride is keeping him from just coming out and saying 'I'm sorry'. Yesterday, he spent 15 minutes after closing when i picked up my car to review my interest in purchasing a used Mini Cooper, as he has one himself. He proceeded to go over all of the features, the reliability, repair prices for similar tasks related to the jag, and even offered to let me take his for a test drive if I wanted. He offered to even look at any car I was interested in and he would give it a thorough inspection, since there's not a Mini dealer here in Ft Worth.

Anyway, all is well, and although I am much lighter in the bank account, I am ultimately pleased with the outcome, especially when the car is quiet and now feels 'proper' as the Brits would say.

Whether I use the shop again, well that question is still on the table to be answered another day.
 


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