Buy the kit from whitexkr and convert your temp gauge to Realgauge. I did the oil gauge also.

 

+1 on the above

 

+1

Definately worth it. Easy to install too, especially when compared to what you've just done.

 

Good day everyone!!

I will think about the gauges... Right now I have bigger fish to fry... Apparently that steering rack wasn't new or rebuilt... That is where I am losing all my ATF from my PS canister... I put new tires on it today at work... It rides great and accelerates nicely without any wobble... I will have to replace whatever is an issue on the front suspension and get that alignment to save the tires... The left front looks like it is leaning considerably more than the other side... I will probably have to work this weekend, so I won't get to the car that much for a few... I'll keep everyone posted of the fixes I do as I go...

Cheers everyone!!

 

Good day guys and gals!!!

My first day off from work since I started... It feels good!! However, I have a major issue...

I have put almost as much into the project blue as I initially paid for her and the better half is......... Well, I can't tell her the replacement steering rack from Jag is 1100 bucks, or from one of the major parts chains is almost 650 bucks... SOOOO, my question to you all... Is there a rebuild kit out there for us to buy for your steering racks... I've done my search, but a lot of the stuff is coming up in different languages and such... Anyone have connections to get me a rack rebuild kit?! I'll do a serious how-to on the procedure help everyone else save the replacement costs too...

I've seen a inner tie-rod end replacement for a 2001, but nothing is avail for a 99 on the inner tie rod... Even from the dealer... Will a 2001 rack fit in the 99's?! I'll do that conversion in a heartbeat if I get to have replaceable inner tie rods... Heck, I may have to replace the rack anyway...

Thanks everyone!!!

Cheers!!

 

Good day everyone!!

Thanks to Graham and this post:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...acement-70930/

I have found this rebuild kit:

Steering Rack Seal Kit - XK13574 | Jaguar XK8 - XKR | Jaguar | British Parts UK

So, once I have the seal kit, I will do the how-to and let everyone know how it turns out...

Thanks Graham!!!

Cheers everyone!!!

 

Hey blue, good find on the info from Graham, hopefully it helps to save you $$$

Still tuning in with interest to see how this ends up....

 

I sure miss reading this thread over coffee each morning, thanks blue

 

You are welcome... On a positive side, I may be tearing my steering rack apart very soon... I'm going through almost a quart of ATF a week... It is a considerable leak! I just wish I could pull a steering rack out of a 2001 T-bird and call it good, but even those are expensive...

Thanks for the support!!

Cheers!!

 

Good day everyone!!

I've been working a lot and haven't been able to tinker with the cat... I have an issue that I want to run across yous guys and gals... I've searched the forum for a key fob programming issue that I can't seem to work out... I found a post with my symptoms and a solution, but my fuses are good... I will indeed check those fuses again, but I don't think they are the issue... Here are my symptoms:

I close everything up (doors closed, windows closed, top up [even though it's manual])... I even connected the empty hydraulic cylinders to the top to activate the switches... I've done the programming procedure for the remote... Hold the flast to pass, turn to on, flash 4 to 5 times... No chirp or security light... No response to pushing a remote button... When I lock the car manually (locking the pass side from inside the car; and using the key on the drivers door), all seems fine... When I use the key to unlock the drivers door, the pass door AND ONLY the pass door cycles lock to unlock three times, remaining in the unlock position... I might have the remote antenna to the security module disconnected, but I will have to check that in the daylight tomorrow after work... I don't THINK that would cause the programming to NOT start...

Is it imperative that everything be closed and locked prior to the programming sequence?! The procedure doesn't give these specifics... Oh, my remote kinda worked when I bought the car... I replaced the ONE battery with TWO, like it should have... I don't think the remote is the issue... So, I'm open to suggestions!!!

The week update is that the cat is running great... I have new tread all the way around, but at the cost of one lug stud and nut... Just my luck an 8 dollar wheel stud gets buggered up... The leaking steering and odd idle is keeping me from driving it right now... I think the idle is either the VVT units not getting full pressure due to the thinner head gasket, OR the crack in the air intake tube between the MAFS and throttle body pulling in unmetered air... The idle does smooth out to the point I think it isn't running anymore... Power is smooth and no odd noises... Sport mode works great and I actually enjoy sport mode better... MPG is around 19.4 (or 18.2 if I push it from time to time)... Ummmmmmmmm, I still have a lot of parts to install... I am looking for the spare hold down thingy, the interior light by the mirror, pass seat controller, steering rack (just sayin), brace between lower control arms that goes in front of oil pan, the oil pan, the gas lid catch, and the wheel stud and nut... The list is considerably shorter than it was when I got the car!! LOL!!!

Thanks everyone!!

Cheers guys and gals!!!

 

For the remote issue, try to vary the pace a bit of the programming sequence. About one pull per second usually works, but it can be fussy. Without the antenna connected the remote will not work more than a few inches away. There could be an SLM problem if it cannot get into programming mode. The beep BTW is EXTREMELY soft.

The air intake tube damage could definitely be messing with your idle.

The unlock/lock/unlock... is usually a symptom of a bad microswitch in the door lock mechanism.

 

Blue,
I don't know if this will help your fob problem but BuckMR2 dated 03/03/10 in the X350 section had the proceedure for the X350 and said the drivers door had to be open while programing. I would give you the link if I knew how to do it.

 

Thanks guys!!! I will see if that is the antenna that is not connected... And I will try it with the drivers door open, just for SAGs!!!

Cheers!!

 

Good day everyone!!

I tried the remote programming with the drivers door open... No luck! So, I went into the trunk to discover I don't have the SLM was connected... I thought I had the SLM by the rear relay box by the battery, but I found out that box is the light control module... It has a yellow connector and nothing else... I looked at the wiring schematics and it says the SLM should be where this LCM is now... There are two connectors under the relay box as shown in the set of pictures on the first page of this post that have no home... I wonder if this is where the SLM should be and mounted under the relay box... Does anyone have something worth a thousand words showing what it looks like in real life? And maybe what the acutal connectors look like?!

I wouldn't doubt that the previous owner misplaced the SLM along with the front interior light assy (with UGDO), the gas cap, the rear bass speakers, the tire hold down screw, and the various other screws and bolts for the interior parts... Everything in the trunk was pulled apart...

Thanks everyone!!

Cheers!!

 

Not sure if this helps, it's an XJ version but might assist.

 

Good day!!

If you have a picture of the Security Module and how it's mounted, that would be great!! I am pretty sure the key fob worked when I got the car, but I don't see how if the SLM isn't in the car... Maybe I was dreaming when I hit the remote prior to tearing it apart...

Thanks much!!

Cheers!!

 

Thanks!! I found a good number of these on ebay, but I have to run back down stairs to get the number off the module listing in my trunk to see if that is what I need... I actually think my car didn't come with the SLM for some reason... The antenna cable looks tied up as if it wasn't used when the car was built...

Cheers!!

 

Good day!!

Here is what I found in the trunk... I have the module on the list, but no physical module that I can find... I have two connectors, but I think only one will match up to the modules I found on ebay... The two connectors are tied together so I may just have found the wrong modules... I'm not positive where it goes either, but there is a bolt that doesn't hold anything down right by the rear most battery hold down bolt... It seems logical that would be where it goes as all the wires would be in the correct locations and give some reason to why the bolt is there...

Security and Locking module LJB2600AC



And the mystery connectors... if you look right below the connectors, you will see the (VERY BLUURRY) bolt that isn't doing anything...



And this is the antenna cable that is just zip tied... Not factory tied as if it wasn't used when built (like I thought)...



If there is a picture out there of this module in place, I would appreciate seeing it...

Thanks all!!

Cheers everyone!!

 

Both of the connectors you show plug into the SLM, along with the antenna cable.

The SLM is mounted horizontally directly under the fusebox. It just snaps into the bottom of the fusebox, there are no bolts.

You will need to match the part number and VCATs (program) code, which is 015 from your label photo. If the VCATS is unknown, try to make sure at least the module you buy is from the same model year and body style.

I see you are also missing two relays (black with purple stripe) which are needed to raise the rear windows.

 

This the SLM as mounted below the Fusebox on my Car: