Need to rent/buy tools for tensioners
#1
#2
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Do a search, I saw a post in the last few days where a forum member was willing to rent his tools.
Look here- https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...ls-rent-45101/
Look here- https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...ls-rent-45101/
Last edited by avt007; 01-15-2012 at 05:32 PM.
#3
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I have the tools for rent..too tired to elaborate right now but I will tell you more later. Basically I rent them for $100, request a $250 deposit and charge $25 shipping handling. So when I get them returned I return $125.
I have 2 cam locking bars, the flexplate/crank lock pin, the tensioner/chain spacer and cam gear wrench. They cost me $450 to buy and I'm just recouping my costs.
Steve
I have 2 cam locking bars, the flexplate/crank lock pin, the tensioner/chain spacer and cam gear wrench. They cost me $450 to buy and I'm just recouping my costs.
Steve
#4
#5
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+1 with Gus.
You can cut a copy of the Nylon Tie method of replacing secondary camshaft tensioners and an independent car mechanic can use them to do the job--even if he doesn't have Jag experience. By now, all good mechanics are familiar with overhead cams--chains and belt style.
I'd just hate for you to tackle the job if you were not comfortable doing it. I think that after you get into this method of tensioner replacement, it would all come together for you.
But, it's like opening a can of worms in that we must sometimes change the spark plugs, replace the plastic thermostat housing, replace the thermostat and inspect the water pump for plastic blades. The radiator hoses and serpentine belt pulleys must also be inspected closely. These are all do-able job tasks for most people.
Good luck!
You can cut a copy of the Nylon Tie method of replacing secondary camshaft tensioners and an independent car mechanic can use them to do the job--even if he doesn't have Jag experience. By now, all good mechanics are familiar with overhead cams--chains and belt style.
I'd just hate for you to tackle the job if you were not comfortable doing it. I think that after you get into this method of tensioner replacement, it would all come together for you.
But, it's like opening a can of worms in that we must sometimes change the spark plugs, replace the plastic thermostat housing, replace the thermostat and inspect the water pump for plastic blades. The radiator hoses and serpentine belt pulleys must also be inspected closely. These are all do-able job tasks for most people.
Good luck!
#6
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I have read about both the tie wrap and the factory (tools) methods. The tie looks on the surface the easier way to go but has some problem areas such as cam removal/lift, possible breakage of cams and bolts and lack of perfect timing due to stretched chains; does not address the valve pressure on the cam lobes.
The factory method takes into account the timing issues via chains being streched, one bolt ( not ten) on cam to remove and retorque, no chance of cam bearing surfaces not aligned or lubed.....just seems to be better way.
Just my thoughts.....
The factory method takes into account the timing issues via chains being streched, one bolt ( not ten) on cam to remove and retorque, no chance of cam bearing surfaces not aligned or lubed.....just seems to be better way.
Just my thoughts.....
#7
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#8
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This thread discusses pros and cons of both tensioner methods. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ion-faq-37415/
#10
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Hi Paul and thanks,
My understanding is that even one tooth off will just be replicated by using the tie method whereas the factory method CORRECTS that deviance. Still even if correct as you comment, still have all the other issues .
I have not ruled out the tie method, but my car has 80,xxx miles on it with the original tensioners . No noises, etc. The local Jag dealer says to not do anything until warning signs appear. From this forum , we know that that their recommendation is not good. Same guys that want $4500-$5500 to do all tensioners and pump.
i would like to try the tie method. My car runs great ; timing should be dead on. Still thinking; got all parts on Saturday so day is at hand. Thanks again.
My understanding is that even one tooth off will just be replicated by using the tie method whereas the factory method CORRECTS that deviance. Still even if correct as you comment, still have all the other issues .
I have not ruled out the tie method, but my car has 80,xxx miles on it with the original tensioners . No noises, etc. The local Jag dealer says to not do anything until warning signs appear. From this forum , we know that that their recommendation is not good. Same guys that want $4500-$5500 to do all tensioners and pump.
i would like to try the tie method. My car runs great ; timing should be dead on. Still thinking; got all parts on Saturday so day is at hand. Thanks again.
#11
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Using the zip tie method and lifting the exhaust cam is a piece of cake once you get the cam covers off. The attached link covers the method with pictures and also covers the solutions I came up with in getting the cam covers off. The exhaust cam will come loose easily if you undo the bolts slowly and evenly a little at a time. I think it would also help if the engine was stopped with the cam flats on pointing up.
EZDriver
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
EZDriver
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
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