In need of a solution XK8 starting issues
#1
99 jaguar xk8 4.0 starting issues
ok...i have a 99 jaguar xk8 4.0 in my shop..it was brought to me unwillingly.lol
i didnt wanna mess with this engine..but being the nice guy that i am..i got stuck with the headache...when connected my scanner up..the vehicle already would not start/..it will crank..but no start...the code that came up was p1384..vvt solenoid bank a..
ive replaced the solenoid..and the battery was dead..so i connected charger to it for 1 hour..while i was working on another car..went over and tried to start it..and all it would do is turn..no start.
it tries to..but acts kinda like its not getting enough fuel..or out of time slightly...now i know also by reading the manual..there are several alrm issues to look through..such as the pass key..or limp home mode..or so on so fourth,,,customer has not contact with with me in several days so i have not been able to ask him if that has occured..
what else could be goin on beside that vvt solenoid..i am at my last nerve with this thing...please help.lol
thanks
shawn
i didnt wanna mess with this engine..but being the nice guy that i am..i got stuck with the headache...when connected my scanner up..the vehicle already would not start/..it will crank..but no start...the code that came up was p1384..vvt solenoid bank a..
ive replaced the solenoid..and the battery was dead..so i connected charger to it for 1 hour..while i was working on another car..went over and tried to start it..and all it would do is turn..no start.
it tries to..but acts kinda like its not getting enough fuel..or out of time slightly...now i know also by reading the manual..there are several alrm issues to look through..such as the pass key..or limp home mode..or so on so fourth,,,customer has not contact with with me in several days so i have not been able to ask him if that has occured..
what else could be goin on beside that vvt solenoid..i am at my last nerve with this thing...please help.lol
thanks
shawn
Last edited by Shawn Dickens; 10-16-2012 at 07:50 PM.
#2
Well you have your hands full and if you have a shop I will assume that you have a background in engine repair.
First this xk8 is critical on having a battery that is fully charged. You will get bad indications when the battery is low like a series of OBDII P codes that do not make any sense. When you are attempting to start the car does it seem to spin with low or no compression? I am going to attach a link that should be informative and with a little hope it should help if not get back with us and we will try to get it going.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Keep in mind that a 99model year car could be subject to no start caused by cylinder washing and this next link should help.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I hope this helps.
First this xk8 is critical on having a battery that is fully charged. You will get bad indications when the battery is low like a series of OBDII P codes that do not make any sense. When you are attempting to start the car does it seem to spin with low or no compression? I am going to attach a link that should be informative and with a little hope it should help if not get back with us and we will try to get it going.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Keep in mind that a 99model year car could be subject to no start caused by cylinder washing and this next link should help.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I hope this helps.
#3
thank you for your quik reply..
the batt was not fully charged at first..it was low due to the owner continuously cranking on it trying to start it..now the engine does sound like it has no compression..that was my first observation as i tried to start it before the initial repair to vvt..after i replaced the vvt..i noticed that it would almost turn over but not ever get to that point..almost as it wasnt getting enough fuel pressure..ive checked the pressure to fuel rail...it was witin spec..but it still getting fire cause it tries to turn over...im wondering if there could be a security issue...cause the trunk is open..and the battery did go completley dead...and i still do not know if the trans or pcm went into safe mode after the sensor went bad...i did get another code that didnt make any sense..p1111...which raises another eyebrow.
the batt was not fully charged at first..it was low due to the owner continuously cranking on it trying to start it..now the engine does sound like it has no compression..that was my first observation as i tried to start it before the initial repair to vvt..after i replaced the vvt..i noticed that it would almost turn over but not ever get to that point..almost as it wasnt getting enough fuel pressure..ive checked the pressure to fuel rail...it was witin spec..but it still getting fire cause it tries to turn over...im wondering if there could be a security issue...cause the trunk is open..and the battery did go completley dead...and i still do not know if the trans or pcm went into safe mode after the sensor went bad...i did get another code that didnt make any sense..p1111...which raises another eyebrow.
#5
#6
If the inertia switch were an issue the doors will not lock and the power is shut down to the engine and many other things.
From my no start procedure;
The inertia switch is installed next to the fuse box in the LH end of the fascia. When activated, it de-energizes the ignition relays in the engine compartment, driver's side fascia and trunk fuse boxes. It also removes ground inputs from the BPM and windshield wiper stalk switch. This stops the engine and fuel pump, unlocks any locked door, and de-energizes unnecessary electrical systems. The switch is reset by pressing down on the rubber cap on the top of the switch. If your doors lock, windows, seats and the wipers work and the dash lights up then all should be good, but if it makes you feel better reset the inertia switch.
From my no start procedure;
The inertia switch is installed next to the fuse box in the LH end of the fascia. When activated, it de-energizes the ignition relays in the engine compartment, driver's side fascia and trunk fuse boxes. It also removes ground inputs from the BPM and windshield wiper stalk switch. This stops the engine and fuel pump, unlocks any locked door, and de-energizes unnecessary electrical systems. The switch is reset by pressing down on the rubber cap on the top of the switch. If your doors lock, windows, seats and the wipers work and the dash lights up then all should be good, but if it makes you feel better reset the inertia switch.
Last edited by Gus; 10-16-2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Add Inertia Info
#7
im gonna double check the compression theory in the morning and also the plugs and coils for fire..
but the cylinder wash kinda has me concerned now...because it didnt sound normal when i initially tried to start it...
now how about the oil pressure being sent to the top end..can that cause a no start from non sufficient amount of oil pressure sent through the actuator.
or maybe even the security system fault..and what the heck is p1111 anyway.lol
but the cylinder wash kinda has me concerned now...because it didnt sound normal when i initially tried to start it...
now how about the oil pressure being sent to the top end..can that cause a no start from non sufficient amount of oil pressure sent through the actuator.
or maybe even the security system fault..and what the heck is p1111 anyway.lol
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#8
P1111 is "Emission System Monitors Complete".
After All Trouble Codes have been freshly cleared, Jaguar sets P1000 "Emission Monitors Not Complete".
After Specific Drive Cycle(s) are completed, and the Emission monitor systems are deemed to be operating properly, Jaguar clears P1000 and Sets P1111.
P1000 and P1111 are NOT trouble codes.
After All Trouble Codes have been freshly cleared, Jaguar sets P1000 "Emission Monitors Not Complete".
After Specific Drive Cycle(s) are completed, and the Emission monitor systems are deemed to be operating properly, Jaguar clears P1000 and Sets P1111.
P1000 and P1111 are NOT trouble codes.
#9
For now focus on the no compression and see what takes place. You can over analyze the situation and lose focus. Stay on one thing until it takes you to another. As for the codes you need to look on my page and I have a great deal of info on it to help you.
im gonna double check the compression theory in the morning and also the plugs and coils for fire..
but the cylinder wash kinda has me concerned now...because it didnt sound normal when i initially tried to start it...
now how about the oil pressure being sent to the top end..can that cause a no start from non sufficient amount of oil pressure sent through the actuator.
or maybe even the security system fault..and what the heck is p1111 anyway.lol
but the cylinder wash kinda has me concerned now...because it didnt sound normal when i initially tried to start it...
now how about the oil pressure being sent to the top end..can that cause a no start from non sufficient amount of oil pressure sent through the actuator.
or maybe even the security system fault..and what the heck is p1111 anyway.lol
#12
just a lil update here,,kinda funny actually...
so i replaced the two hydraulic top latch lines..and was raising the topback up...and it was about half way up..and then all at once it goes back down...the other line blows completley out of the fitting on the pump that ops the sides.lol..so now i have to wait 1 more week to get another set of lines.aaaaaaagggghhhhh,,,
anyway...when i got to work this morning,,i put a good charge to batt...then took one of the plugs out..and low and behold...the plugs are completley burnt off..soaked in fuel..and pretty badly carboned over....and sure enough..no compression..so,,,im gonna place a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and that should restore compression???correct??
so i replaced the two hydraulic top latch lines..and was raising the topback up...and it was about half way up..and then all at once it goes back down...the other line blows completley out of the fitting on the pump that ops the sides.lol..so now i have to wait 1 more week to get another set of lines.aaaaaaagggghhhhh,,,
anyway...when i got to work this morning,,i put a good charge to batt...then took one of the plugs out..and low and behold...the plugs are completley burnt off..soaked in fuel..and pretty badly carboned over....and sure enough..no compression..so,,,im gonna place a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and that should restore compression???correct??
#13
A teaspoon is not going to do it.
I usually put about an once of motor oil in each cylinder and spin it over with the plugs out so it does not 'hydraulic lock'.
Install the plugs and start it up (preferably OUTSIDE or with a hose on the tail-pipes routed OUTSIDE).
It will smoke ALOT!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
I usually put about an once of motor oil in each cylinder and spin it over with the plugs out so it does not 'hydraulic lock'.
Install the plugs and start it up (preferably OUTSIDE or with a hose on the tail-pipes routed OUTSIDE).
It will smoke ALOT!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
#15
#16
thansk guys...i have the hydrauli hose deal goin..i got the top latch hose done...now im just waitin for the part to come in for the other hose...i tried a mend on it with compression fittings...but it didnt hold to well...plus i dont really trust it to good..and they dont really look to healthy in my opinion to.ill try to get that video on here for ya when i start it up @ h20boy...i havent had time to get back on it yet,,got a lil busy at the shop and havent fooled with it anymore...plus its been a head ache right from the start,lol
but all your help has greatly appreciated guys...im a chevy.ford and dodge kinda guy..some imports are ok,,but when comes to german and other id rather stay at home.
thanks
shawn
but all your help has greatly appreciated guys...im a chevy.ford and dodge kinda guy..some imports are ok,,but when comes to german and other id rather stay at home.
thanks
shawn
#17
#18
H2O sorry but had I been prepared today I could have given you the video. Finally got the car fired up today inside the underground garage at our condo. Looked out the back window to back up and get the heck out of there before she died and my first instinct as a northerner was to flip on the defogger! Visibility was about 2 feet lol. BTW, I did all the usual Gus steps to get compression again, but she wouldn't fire up. 3 hours later as I was switching parking tags with my wife's car (only one per unit in garage allowed) I figured what the heck and gave it a try. Lucky me, she stumbled and then caught. Half-throttle then brought on the biggest fog I've ever seen, even on diesel boats. Now, should I put the top down tomorrow???????
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Norri (10-20-2012)