Guys, I took today off work to put everything back together. Fingers crossed everything works the way it should. Other than obliterating a few bolts (egr to plenum bolt was completely rounded out too) the main thing bothering me is I found out that the range rover intake which is huge compared to the stock one, is only a 3" outlet at the back end.

It's actually smaller than the new TB. So I am waiting to hear back from my friend at the machine shop to see if he can open it up for me today. Otherwise I'll just put it on for now and get him to port it later. That would be disappointing though because having a 4" intake and bigger TB would still be bottlenecked to 3" there.

 

Ran into some issues when fitting in the new TB. It's too big and doesn't fit. One side hits the intercooler, the other side hits the EGR.

I had to remove the EGR after putting it back on and filed the Tps case, EGR, and TB gear housing down in order for it to fit. I got it in and bolted to the plenum, but even after removing material, it's extremely tight.








Now just waiting on the RR intake to be done being ported at the machine shop. Fingers crossed all the filing and grinding didn't damage anything too bad.

 

Hi,
@Avos- do you know anything about this ? I looked back into the results you sent, and the report is completely other story, not covering these issues up there at all.
Now for EGR issue- to avoid the grinding , and keep it as it is, many of people who run into massive changes, did EGR blanking, some used to do :EGR+AGR+Simulator

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...r+XKR&_sacat=0

 

So as said I did not have a car to fit it on! Hence you would check with another member here on the forum, which I recommended as well.

I didn't see that it could be so cramped on the TB motor side.

As you can remember, I also suggested to move it more to the back for better airflow into the intake elbow, and gave much more feedback, so was also not part of the end design.

Some room can be created by pushing the intercoolers a little bit to the outside when fitting, that is also what I do for the TS kits, but there I go even further by drilling out the bolt holes to gain even more room.
You can shave of material as wall from the intercoolers, another thing that is part of TS kit install (only for the STR/XJR, not for the XKR, the).

For the next run, you could check if you can machine off a little more material from place where the TPS sits on, it doesn't need much as I see it.

The EGR can't be taken off/blanked! Unless you are able to reprogram the ECU, or do that special mod I described here on the forum.

 

Now you can see how important were the steps described in prototype testing manual, but , again for everybody to know and remember, there was not a single person in Europe available, from this forum, or from the social networks who wanted to do this test, except you . You did an effort which everybody else didn't .
TPS has 0.9 to 1mm, maybe 1mm max, available to mill.
But all the rest is maximum stretched. On the mechanism side, There is 0 remaining space everywhere. The motor of the mechanism in the bottom of the pot sits on the aluminum housing, which further has the minimum accepted range of 3-4mm wall with the main bore. On first prototype casting we went to thinner 2-3mm in there, and there was a lot of scraps resulted- due to wax stability for the large bore to motor pot joint.
So nothing could of being done more. If I would of seen back then , the plastic prototype in Jazzy car , I would of cancel the entire project.
The assumptions of moving to the back , or other movements can't be done without an adaptation flange, which again, will reflect to cost, and that has as well got tighten for the orders which has being placed.
For EGR from the pictures- since @jazzyjags chopped a bit of both,in order to be able to fit, is very much not enough 0.8mm, not even 1mm.
So another solution except EGR delete, is a small flange for EGR 3-4mm thick aluminum or brass (which is easy to do by hand or in any metal shop) to displace EGR 3mm away from the TB.This to be discussed with Jazzyjags to see how the surrounding are affected. I stay in touch with him to find some nicer solution for problems above.
@avos Please put the link again here about the EGR mod you mentioned above so people can go easily to it.

 

When I knew what I would run into with the TS kit, I probably would never started it myself, worst experience is actually one person never paid the full amount who I helped by letting him pay in parts, I still hope he will though as it a lot of cost for me as my margins where very slim, at least he enjoys the kit...

Nevertheless, as a note, this issue is only for the STR/XJR, not for the XKR!

With regards to the EGR/TPS, there is some room for movement, not sure how much, but 2mm certainly sounds doable, and looking at it, it may just be enough, at least far enough that a little shaving maybe needs to be done instead of this much.

The EGR delete would allow for a larger shim as the pipe will not be used anymore, but sill expects the EGR to be functional and connected.
Here is a thread where I describe how I did it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...r-valve-34453/

 

I thought exactly the same thing about spacing out the EGR. What I considered is buying several EGR to plenum gaskets to create a few MM of space. But even then, it still made contact (TB gear side) when trying to bolt the TB down to the plenum with the intercooler. Also, the EGR pipe is bolted to the exhaust manifold and adding the spacer or extra gaskets could stress the pipe because it would be forced to bend just a bit. Not sure how it would take the flexing when its hot, or how long the pipe would last before it cracks.

The only other thing I think would help would be a spacer between the plenum and throttle body. It would raise/lift the TB up just high enough so it wouldn't touch on either side. I know its pretty tight above the entire assembly (at least for the XJR) already though when the upper intake tube is mounted, especially if you use the RR tube. But I think its possible and the simplest solution. You might need longer TB bolts if there is a spacer.

Other things I had to "customize" was the gasket between TB and plenum. The original is not even close to fitting, and I could not find anything that would. So I had to very meticulously put an even layer of high temp gasket maker on the bottom of the TB and let it dry before installing it (after I shaved/filed TPS, EGR, gear case, and intercooler).

And finally the rubber coupler that goes from the intake tube to the TB... I just cut a 4" to 3" reducer rubber coupling at the bottom (on the reducing area) to make it fit around the TB, and also not be too tall. I should be getting the RR tube back today, but might not get to test fit it until Thursday.

 

The RR intake has an outside diameter of 4 inch right? So is the outside diameter of the new throttlebody smaller?
Mine should be here next week but I'm not sure if I need to get a 4" straight coupler or maybe something like a 4"to 3.5" reducer.

 

You are correct, the outside diameter of the RR intake is 4" on the back end, unfortunately the inside diameter is only 3" (76 mm) comared to the TB 83mm as you can see in the post above above.

But yes, the 4 to 3.5 coupler would be ideal. Just make sure its not too tall because then you will have issues with the RR intake clearing the cowl or hood.

 

Was that a comparison of the Range Rover inlet to stock jaguar? If so I didn’t realize it was that much bigger

 

Yes same here, I knew it was bigger, but didn’t realize how much until i put them next to each other and also measured the inlets.

The RR is:
~112 MM wide
~69 MM tall

The stock Jag is
~95 MM wide
~63 MM tall

I was disappointed to see the outlets were the same size but I imagine the outlet might not be the bottle neck on these. I feel like closer to the middle where they flatten out and then bend downwards towards the TB is where these struggle. The RR intake is much bigger in that section. It fits between the supercharger outlet but its tight.

Still waiting on the machine shop to finish porting the outlet on mine. They were backed up this week. I’ll post pictures when I get it.

 

Correct that is where the RR is better, of course you can now try to port the outlet of the RR one to match tit better.
On the RR the Airfilter and MAF already 90mm, so someone did think back then that it would deliver more power.

 

I hate to be a party pooper but here is what I discovered .
At least on my enlarged tb, the angle changed and was negatively effecting performance until fixed in ecu programming. So highly recommend , check your WoT opening angle by visually inspecting with ingnition on and engine off.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2313189

 

The ECU (at least the pre 2006 ones), checks the full closed position, and takes that as a base.
So as long as you don't change the position there (meaning the blade design) then you are still fine.

Was the blade design then different from yours, causing it to have a lower value for the closed position?

 

Have no clue as to the closed position. I know that after new tb it automatically adjusted by 1 degree higher per logs , but this wasn't enough and had to code additional 3 degrees of opening. Blade design is similar to stock setup

 

Gents,

I finally was able to take some time to work on this. It was tedious and time consuming, but the Jag is running pretty well now. I had to get the TB spacer made in order for the TB to clear the EGR and bank 2 intercooler. The spacer is 1/2" aluminum and was custom made by my friend Johnathan who owns a machine shop:
https://www.facebook.com/Jm-machines...9484537577924/

He is also the one who ported the plenum, supercharger outlet, and RR intake outlet.

I also had to make home-made gaskets to fit between the TB and the spacer, and between the spacer and plenum. I bought gasket paper/sheets and traced the spacer and carefully cut it out with an exacto knife. Once I got everything installed and started the car for the first time in 2 months, it was running real rough and was giving me "engine systems fault". Pulling live data basically showed that the car recognized the throttle position didn't match the RPMs. I had the new TB idle adjustment screws and TPS adjusted to match the stock one, so I had to remove the TB and adjust it taking into consideration that the butterfly valve is bigger and would let in more air at any certain angle. So after installing and removing the TB like 15 times in order to make adjustments to the idle position and TPS position/angle (yes it was killing me, knuckles and wrist were all bruised and cut up) I was finally able to get it to a happy medium where the car wasn't giving me either "engine systems fault" or "restricted performance". I actually drove it a few times in the neighborhood and on the highway and had enough confidence to drive it to work today.

It idles a little higher than normal and the throttle response is much more pronounced/sensitive. I feel like the car is more aggressive and wanting to jump now, even when hitting the brakes or waiting at a stop light, otherwise the only other thing I need to get used to is the extra noise. My car being basically straight piped, its louder now sitting in traffic and upon start ups.

As far as performance- like I said it wakes up sooner. I am not sure how much power I gained up top, but I know for sure that on low and mid range there is a difference. I will dyno in a few weeks to find the delta. I have been monitoring AFR's and its fine. I had to mix a little less E85 when I filled the tank to keep WOT in the 11s. I will drive around a little more and once I am confident everything is holding up I will try a nitrous pull. While I had the Jag down, I increased the fuel jet but kept the N2O jet at a 125 shot to help richen it up when I spray it.

So far everything seems to be working well. No complaints from the Pro M 92mm MAF either. Once I figured the wiring for that out it reads just fine (thanks Avos). I am also very happy with the build quality of the TB and have to say the guys at Sechtor did a very nice job and captured the details needed to make this a reliable part. I will try to get a video of some pulls later on and post it as well as the dyno.

 

Did you verify that when at full pedal , tb is open at all the way?

 

Yes, I did confirm it is opening and closing as it should. I would still like to get with you to see if we can get this thing a better tune though. Possibly after I dyno it to see net gains from this project. That could serve as a baseline for the tune

 

That looks FANTASTIC!

 

This all looks fantastic. Would love to see the results.