Apparently low sulphur fuels were standardised from (i think) 01/2000 and the lead content in fuel nowadays is supposed to be so low as to not cause Nikasil lined engines any problems.
Therefore general consensus is that a Nikasil lined engine with good compression should be fine, and better than a steel lined engine.

I don't know the following for certain, but i gather that quite a few engines were replaced by Jaguar under warranty up until some years later, so you'd have to check the build date of the engine, cos if it's a replacement AJ26 it may have steel liners.
Having said that, the main thing is whether the engine has good compression, and a compression test will tell you that.
With a replacement engine, any problems with the liners on your current engine won't be a problem, unless you are thinking of swapping heads, and in that case you'll have the heads off and may be able to get a professional assessment of the condition of the bores on both engines.

 

At this point it's just going to be the first engine that works is the one that goes in. I don't plan on tearing anything apart or *******izing both engines.

 

You might be able to sell some bits of your current engine to offset the cost.
Engine casings, crankshaft, camshafts etc.

Whatever you decide, i hope you get her back on the road soon.

 

This is so overwhelming. I don't even know what I'm doing. I just wish an engine would magically show up in my car with (or without) a bill.

 

Hang in there, we"re pulling for you!

Small, achievable goals, don"t get overwhelmed by the large, overall task.

 

If you've got another car you can use while you are doing the Jag, there's no headlong rush.
You could break it down in to sections, like inlet manifold removal, fuel rail removal, thermostat housing, throttle body etc, and before you know it, you'll be looking at a bare block.
If you haven't got a laptop to keep the JTIS with you, you can print off procedures, and just do them one at a time.
I just bought 100 small plastic bags and 400 sticky labels off EBay, so i can bag and tag every nut and bolt i take off. That way i can make sure they go back on in the same place, with none left over.
Take photographs as well if it helps, i probably will when i do mine.
Take your time, think it through, and you'll get there.

 

You guys are giving me way too much credit!

I'm still searching for an engine. I find myself just flipping to the same pages each time, seeing the results and closing my browser. I really have no idea what I'm looking for aside from an AJ26 for $2500 or so (seems to be the higher end price).

I've searched for SBCs and it just won't be worth it. After losing the Jag's soul, it still comes out more expensive than a replacement AJ26.

With that said, importing a salvage car/parts car into Canada is pretty cheap. I've broadened my search to include full cars in Michigan. Hard to find 'wrecked exotics' there though.

 

$2500 seems like quite a lot for a second hand engine.
I'm sure i've seen them over here in the UK for less than £1000, heads and valves included.
No idea of the shipping cost to Canada though.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-Xk8...item53ed67cda0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/jaguar-xk8...item3a754750fa

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK8...item2ebe76bd75

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK8...item3cc1183b57

This one may be an AJ27, but it has the single sensor from the earlier engine, so it might be an AJ26 replacement engine from Jaguar.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK8...item1c28357a56


If you can arrange the shipping, they might send it if it's in budget.

You could try giving these a ring, or sending an email.
Enquiring won't cost anything, and you never know till you try.

 

The cheapest I've found was about $900 but it was from a place I've had a couple poor dealings with in the past.

Most seem to be close to $2000 which is pretty close to your 1000 pounds.

I've found a few donor cars; mostly XJ8s though some XJ/XKRs.

 

Just looked it up.

$2500 Canadian = £1559

So the links above all come down to the shipping cost, regards feasibility.

 

I am relatively new to this site and don't mean to step on anyone's toes with my opinions but I am a mechanic and I thought I would share my thoughts on the subject. With automobiles being so complicated these days (with the electronic controls and such), the internal combustion engine is of the simplest components in my opinion. Why not just take the engine out and repair what needs to be repaired. I have modified many cars and one thing leads to another and can be a very daunting undertaking. I am a newbie when it comes to Jags but I still think it holds true unless you have really deep pockets

Terro
98 XK8 coupe
69 firebird
95 impala ss

 

I feel your pain. Kinda. My wifes landy decided to shatter a fly wheel ($125) I literally have to pull the motor, doing it now, to replace it. Daunting at first but I found the RAVE (landy mech book) takes you step by step and pulling this motor has only taken 2.5 hours of very easy work.

If you have another car to drive, take your time doing the removal. Dont stress. Maybe its worth finding another known good motor while you take the time to rebuild and improve your numbers matching motor the right way.

My advice is just take your time. In dallas there seems to be several running motors for 200-750.

Your old old motor could/would make an excellent winter project.

 

Hi Terro, and welcome.
I'm positive that everyone on a forum centred on cars and fixing problems with them, would welcome any advice from a mechanic.
In this case fedoraja seems to be forced into playing the numbers game.

By that i mean he has a car with 8 pistons, 16 inlet and 16 exhaust valves. The cost of replacing those parts is not far off what a replacement engine would cost.
He also can't be sure that there is no damage further down the engine, and his local mechanics have told him that the most cost effective option is to get another engine.
After what's happened (the primary chains jumping off the sprockets and the valves punching holes in the pistons, which has also bent the valves) nobody knows until the heads are off exactly how much the repair bill for the existing engine will be.
Even then, there's a risk of bent conrods and/or expired small ends, plus possible damage to other parts like the big end shells, from metal fragments or fluid contamination.
As a mechanic, i'd expect you to know better than many, (especially the likes of me with not much mechanical experience), what his chances are that the damage is restricted to just a few cylinders, and that he could replace just those few visibly damaged pistons and valves, and have a reliable runner again.
What do you think?
Has he got a decent chance of finding not too much damage, in order to make a repair a better option than a replacement?

 

Roadhogg,

I completely understand. It's difficult to fully explain everything short of writing a book on a forum. It certainly is a numbers game for sure, but I know it's best to get to the heart of the issue than presuming what ails it from the outside. What I was really trying to suggest was not to go the modified route.

 

I think most of us would agree with that sentiment.

It's a big consideration when you need to pay someone else to pull the damaged engine apart to assess the damage.
You could have invested a large wad of $$s into an inspection just to hear "sorry mate it's toast".

 

I agree with you totally Terro, i'm just trying to look at it from the point of view of someone who, like me, has never attempted to take out one of these engines, or strip one down.

Forgive me fedoraja1, that's just the impression i got.

If that's the case, and put me right if i got it wrong fedoraja1, then doing either of the above is a daunting prospect.
The worst case scenario would be if he stripped it down, only to find it was more expensive and more work to repair than a replacement engine.

So the question was not meant in any way offensively Terro, we're simply looking for the best option, that involves the best chance of needing the least cost and work.
Therefore the question stands as it was asked to you Terro, and to anybody else that may know what damage is most likely sustained when the valves hit the pistons.Obviously it will depend on circumstances for each event.
For example, if 6 people have had this happen and 3 say the engine was not worth repairing, but the other 3 say it was cheaper to repair than to replace, then at least if he strips it he's got half a chance (literally ) of it being worth repairing.
Please don't take offence Terro, my questions weren't meant that way.

 

Well said Norri

Took me ages to write all that rubbish in my previous post

 

never any sense or cents when talking a mans passion.

 

Mind you it always takes me ages to write my rubbish.

 

Just another quick note to further define myself. I personally am not a mechanic that services the public. (as I sense some animosity toward mechanics here) I can understand a lot of people's dissatisfaction with the services that they have received at some time or another. So please don't mistake me for the guy who you would like to get even with