New to me XK8, now the work begins
#21
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The shocks are coming from FCP Groton/Euro. Jaguar Shock Absorber Front (XK8 XKR) - Bilstein 24-067263 | FCP Euro
Hopefully they won't be on back order.
The lower bushings were a pain in the neck to find. I was going to get them from SNG Barret but ended up getting them from different Ebay suppliers. I couldn't find one supplier that had both bushings. One set is Meyle and the other is URO, which I hear is not the best quality. I'll check how it looks when it shows up. The lower bushing numbers are MNE1360BB and MNE1360CA.
Hopefully they won't be on back order.
The lower bushings were a pain in the neck to find. I was going to get them from SNG Barret but ended up getting them from different Ebay suppliers. I couldn't find one supplier that had both bushings. One set is Meyle and the other is URO, which I hear is not the best quality. I'll check how it looks when it shows up. The lower bushing numbers are MNE1360BB and MNE1360CA.
Thanks
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gwagner (06-19-2014)
#22
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I think the best option if you can is to pull the control arm that is still attached along with the knuckle and put it in a press to press the bolt end out of the knuckle.
You could also try heating it with a torch (meaning actual fire for our british friends) and pressing/bankgin it out with a new hand tool.
If all else fails you can always drill it out. I would buy a good $50 cobalt bit or else this could be like 12 hours of drilling.
You could also try heating it with a torch (meaning actual fire for our british friends) and pressing/bankgin it out with a new hand tool.
If all else fails you can always drill it out. I would buy a good $50 cobalt bit or else this could be like 12 hours of drilling.
#23
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I got a large order from SNG Barret delivered yesterday. It included the new tensioners, metal thermostat housing, and the new x brace. I had a free hour and decided to install the x brace. Of course, 3 of the 4 bolts snapped when trying to remove them. Now I have to figure out how to get the rest of the bolt shaft out. Fun, fun, fun.
The bolts will not come out, the problem is they are quite long and will be very badly rusted beyond the captive nut in the box section. You have a couple of options, dill out what is lift of the bolt and retap, or cut out a part of the box section and weld in a new piece with new captive nuts.
I tried drilling out the old bolt, I then taped it to a smaller size and screwed a smaller bolt into it in the hope that I could then screw the old bolt through the captive nut. However the end result was that the new bolt sheared off, so the old one was clearly not going to move easily.
Drilled and taped the inside of the stuck bolt.
Started to tighten up the new bolt,
Back to square one!
After more drilling the captive nuts broke free from the inside of the box section, they looked like this. That is the top of a broken drill bit poking out the top.
Plan B
Cut out squares from the box section.
Make up some captive nuts.
Tack weld them into place and check for fit.
Then fully seam weld them up.
#24
#25
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It could work as long as the captive nuts don't snap off like mine did. I did so much during that job I cant actually remember the moment that the nuts snapped off or the exact trigger that caused it. Prior to that I had planned to drill and tap out the old bolt but the hole ended up off centre which will be an issue you will need to watch out for.
I only had flux cored wire for my welder back then and have since moved to a gas set up which gives much better results.
#26
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John55, Sorry to break the bad news to you, I called FCP Euro to see if they had the shocks in stock and they do not. It appears they are a parts forwarding house and actually order from other vendors. Anyway they could not give me a ship date either.
Soooo, I'm staying with my original vendor who said yesterday a week or two, wonderful world of sourcing Jag parts.
Soooo, I'm staying with my original vendor who said yesterday a week or two, wonderful world of sourcing Jag parts.
#27
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John55, Sorry to break the bad news to you, I called FCP Euro to see if they had the shocks in stock and they do not. It appears they are a parts forwarding house and actually order from other vendors. Anyway they could not give me a ship date either.
Soooo, I'm staying with my original vendor who said yesterday a week or two, wonderful world of sourcing Jag parts.
Soooo, I'm staying with my original vendor who said yesterday a week or two, wonderful world of sourcing Jag parts.
#29
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![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I got the upper arm ball joint out of the knuckle. I sawed of the ball portion, and then drilled thru the shaft. It took about an hour but finally success.
#30
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Thanks for the find. FCP just emailed me this afternoon and said my shocks have been shipped. I ordered them on Monday and they shipped on Wednesday. Hopefully, they will be the correct ones![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I got the upper arm ball joint out of the knuckle. I sawed of the ball portion, and then drilled thru the shaft. It took about an hour but finally success.
![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I got the upper arm ball joint out of the knuckle. I sawed of the ball portion, and then drilled thru the shaft. It took about an hour but finally success.
#31
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Ok, new question. I have most all the front suspension out and I am removing and installing new bushings and ball joints. I bought new tie rod ends. Problem is, it feels to me like the inner tie rods are very loose. There is no resistance at all. I would like to replace them, but the Jag book says they are part of the steering rack. Does anyone know if they are replaceable like most other inner tie rods?
#32
#33
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Direct replacements are not available although some have used X type rods but these need to be cut down a bit to the correct length.
I swapped my tie rods from my leaking rack to a second hand one.
See here.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGx4-tPyrd8
I swapped my tie rods from my leaking rack to a second hand one.
See here.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGx4-tPyrd8
#34
#35
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Johns55, just starting my front end tear down this weekend. Where you able to get the rear lower control arm bolt out by just losening the steering rack? Did you have to disconnect anything on the rack?
Been considering doing the upper and lower seperately instead of taking everything out at one time. Just a little nervous about completely tearing everything out.
Been considering doing the upper and lower seperately instead of taking everything out at one time. Just a little nervous about completely tearing everything out.
#36
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Johns55, just starting my front end tear down this weekend. Where you able to get the rear lower control arm bolt out by just losening the steering rack? Did you have to disconnect anything on the rack?
Been considering doing the upper and lower seperately instead of taking everything out at one time. Just a little nervous about completely tearing everything out.
Been considering doing the upper and lower seperately instead of taking everything out at one time. Just a little nervous about completely tearing everything out.
Some pictures.
Boy, I wish I could get these pictures right side up
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Jandreu (06-21-2014)
#37
#38
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Are you serious? That is a long time. Sorry to hear that. I must have been very lucky. I have the shocks with new upper mounts installed. Everything is put back together. I am waiting on new inner tie rods as I have decided to replace those.
One problem I had was with the fulcrum bolt. It was in very tight and I had to hammer it out. Of course the spacers went flying from the inside of the upper control arm. I think I have them back were they should be, but I am not sure. Is it a must to get the alignment done at a Jag dealership, or are other places good at dealing with the shims?
One problem I had was with the fulcrum bolt. It was in very tight and I had to hammer it out. Of course the spacers went flying from the inside of the upper control arm. I think I have them back were they should be, but I am not sure. Is it a must to get the alignment done at a Jag dealership, or are other places good at dealing with the shims?
#40
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The suspension is going back in. Here's a shot of the right side installed. I painted the Rotor and the calipers while they were off. I also painted all the control arms with a black epoxy paint. Just waiting on a pair of inner tie rods to finish up.
My lower control arm bushing looked almost new. I ended up not changing those. Much more to do. I still have to drill out the broken Xbrace bolts, change most all coolant hoses including valley hoses, thermostat housing, coolant overflow tank, and water pump. Tensioners are here to be replaced. Transmission fluid and filter change. Some interior work and then a respray. I have a headache just thinking about it. I have not had much time because of work, but I must say, I am enjoying the frustration of getting this car in top shape.
My lower control arm bushing looked almost new. I ended up not changing those. Much more to do. I still have to drill out the broken Xbrace bolts, change most all coolant hoses including valley hoses, thermostat housing, coolant overflow tank, and water pump. Tensioners are here to be replaced. Transmission fluid and filter change. Some interior work and then a respray. I have a headache just thinking about it. I have not had much time because of work, but I must say, I am enjoying the frustration of getting this car in top shape.
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99xk8guy
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
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06-05-2023 06:28 AM
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