BTW, if members see you're getting some good advice from one or two others, they just don't feel compelled to chime in...as there is nothing to add to what you are already receiving. I do the same thing for others, even if I do have some knowledge of the subject. Don't take it any other way, its standard protocol.

 

Thank you once again h20,I will check out what you had suggested asap on the car and see what is going on and reply my findings.And yes if the tube is rusting from the inside out.It only makes perfect sense to replace it.If this is a common problem and it sounds like it,does anyone offer it in stainless steel?

Sounds like you know your Jag. pretty darn good.Not your fist rodeo as we say here in the south.
Do you have the same size rear wheels as I?It sounds like your rim is to narrow for the tires on them??So to make up for it you drop air pressure.
6 pounds down is a lot from what they say it should be.Figure they have 100's of thousands of dollars if not millions"not Mr. tire here"in development and testing on the tires and should know what is right.I do not like driving around on under inflated tires.They are not designed for that.It is putting undue loads on the side walls and what not.Will not handle as they should.You are having a slight roll on corners under inflated.They are low profile to do away will that old tec.I am going to keep them cranked up to 34lbs in the rears and if they start to get a over inflated tread pattern I will go back and ask wth!Is the load range not correct on them and the cars weight should be more to = things out?Now that I think about it the load range is not the same.99 on the tires on the car now,that have worn great!New tires have a load range 103 on the rear and 100 fronts.Works out in tire talk to 220 pound load range difference in rear.That is why you have to under inflate the tires.And it works out to 55lbs differ in the fronts.I was taught to remove as much weight as possible to keep it running as fast as humanly possible and now talking of adding 220 pounds to the rear to get the tires right!!Crap.I need to call tire place.By for now.

 

I just called Discount tire and they said 32lbs fronts and 33lbs rear.Funny how everyone is not on the same page here.He said that I will love the feel and ride of the tires selected.That if they start to get strange patterns like over or under inflated that they will replace the tires.But he assured me they will be fine.That as long as the load range is higher rather then lower.So I guess that idea I had went out the back door.So i guess with the extra XL103 load range i will be able to do jumps and stuff now

 

man, you sure like to analyze this once-simple tire exchange. In my experience, all tires will vary from manufcturer to another, but different compounds, tread pattern, suspension geometry, weight balance, etc. will yield separate results for each car they get installed on. And yes, I checked the load rating for these hancooks, same as the pirelli p-zeros, so don't worry there.

Between 34psi (OEM recommended) and my 28 psi, you cannot tell the tire has any less height.

and your first question, the rear wheels are 9" wide, fronts are 8". the 255/40/19s are the OEM rear tire size. By changing the pressures, I am not doing anything other than trying to even out the wear.

so, when do the tires get installed?

 

I kinda gave myself and sure others a early morning head ache with my talk.Had not had my morning coffee,so my brain was only making sparks.

You have 19" rims?Must be do to the newer year then my 2000.Without going out to see,I thought that I had the Pirelli p-zeros in front and Perelli's something in the rear.I do know that are both a 99 load range.New tires are 103 load code in the rears and 100's in the front.Anyways..

Discount tire said that they will call this Wed. That they are thinking they will have the tires then.Coming from west coast,California.
So guessing I will have a early morning appointment to have them installed this Thursday.

I did not got around to checking the purge valve,vent tube.Had landscaping to do yesterday(fancy word for digging many holes)and should have it done today.

On post back I think that you had asked about the front brakes pads on it.I did go out the other day to check tire pressure when you had brought it up. They all had 29.6-30.4.I have no idea what they had in them when the last set of tires went on?
I live kinda in the country so when ever I drive i need to go 60mph up and with the car how it is,shake shake shake at higher speeds,it may get 500 miles a year. What i was getting at is i do have a lot of brake dust on the front wheels.I am going to remove all 4 wheels starting Monday and wash them real good to be sure no mud wasp have made a home on the inside on the wheels.I do not want any dirt making the balancing job off when the mud chunks(if any)get washed off after the fact.
I have watched Discount in the past on my truck"kinda wash the wheels"But it was a kinda wash job.So I will have it done before I bring it in.
I have a few sets of brake pads that i had bought shortly after i got the car"Jag. parts lot sale"so i should"hope"that I have them and they will get put on Monday if needed.No tire indicator squealing yet but who knows,it may be some of the front end vibe problems as i think you had asked about on page one.
Well I have 17 more holes to did to get the yard done.Then Jag time!
Thanks!

 

[quote=Without going out to see,I thought that I had the Pirelli p-zeros in front and Perelli's something in the rear.I do know that are both a 99 load range.New tires are 103 load code in the rears and 100's in the front.[/quote]

I gave wrong information so I wanted to post it right.The load range is not the same.
I have Pirelli 255/45 ZR18 99 y P Zero Asimmetrico on the rear and fronts are Pirelli P Zero Direzional 245/45 ZR18 96 Y.

I had also said that they had worn fine.WRONG.From what of the tire I could see with them installed,they looked fine.When I removed both front tires yesterday to clean the wheels and inspect the brakes.I seen that the inner tire is worn off bad of both front wheels.

Also I found the cause of what may be some or all of the BAD SHAKE in the steering wheel at higher speeds.
With the front side of the car jacked up,front wheel installed,hanging down less then a foot off the ground.I put a long steel floor jack handle pipe under the front tire.With the 4 foot long pipe slid a foot or so under the tire and me pulling up on the other end of the pipe,checking to see if I can raise the tire up at all and feel or hear any loose play or clicks.I was checking for any worn out ball joints.Well on the drivers side I could not get the tire to budge.Everything was solid.Then when I went to do this on the passenger side guess what??
First I noticed the tire would go up about 1/4" and make a click.And then when I let the pipe loose,tire would go back down,click.
I had found it!! Now I just had to pin point what it was that the dealership could not find!!
I kept prying up and down with the bar and finally had to go turn the steering wheel to the far right so that I could try to see what is loose.

ANSWER TO FRONT END SHAKE AT HIGHER SPEEDS THAT CAUSED STEERING WHEEL TO SHAKE LIKE HE!!.
FRONT LOWER SHOCK BUSHING ON PASSENGER SIDE.
Note:this may only be part of the cause.

This is a real simple check that anyone with a stock car jack and some type of long 4 foot or so pry bar can do without taking the car to the dealership.They will put your car on a lift and look without prying anyways.Unless you have better dealerships then us here.You may??Or if you do go to the dealership,suggest to them to check them out for you.
I would never had known the lower shock bushing was bad just by looking.I am calling it a bushing because it gave off a click click sound as if it is metal.I have never played with a Jag. before so i do not know if once bad i buy new shocks.If it is pressed in or what?My shocks tested out to be fine.
Shame if I have to replace them for that?I hope to remove it and get a picture of it and see what I can do.I may be able to just weld it in some and redrill it a new centered hole?
Now car needs fixed before it gets new rubber or parked as soon as I get home with new tires.Also something is not right in the front end for how my tires have worn bad on the inside of the tread.

I did a copy and paste below on what needs checked out on my front end still.
One Side Wear
When an inner or outer rib wears faster than than the rest of the tire, the need for wheel alignment is indicated. There is excessive camber in the front suspension, causing the wheel to lean too much to the inside or outside and putting too much load on one side of the tire. The car may simply need the wheels aligned, but misalignment could be due to sagging springs, worn ball joints, or worn control arm bushings. Because load has a great affect on alignment, be sure the car is loaded the way it's normally driven when you have the wheels aligned; this is particularly important with independent rear suspension cars.

I need to get parts hunting.Still had not got around to checking on the fuel system troubles.As far as my engine amber light check,as what was suggested be h20boy.Hope to today.
Everyone have a wonderful Monday!

 

Very nice, that will definitely cause a shake, sounds just like what happened to my rear shock. That bushing just deteriorated leaving you hitting the mounting bolt inside the shock frame. I recommend getting both front shocks replaced (again, will be cheaper than just doing the bushings), those upper mounts will bring the camber back closer to spec, and with the newly mounted tires...you may be golden on your ride issue.

Then, the check engine light...start a new thread on that when you get the codes read. so others can help you. That will get buried in this tire/suspension thread if you try to add it.

 

Can you suggest good front shocks or struts for this 2000 XK8 Jaguar?Soft top/convertible if it matters?? Not rich here!! But want a good shock at the same time.Bite the bullet and buy what is needed.
I see that they sell them without the rubber shock boot and coil spring.I guess that as long as the old shock boot is ok,i will just reuse it on the new shocks.But as far as the coil spring goes?I do not have a press to see how many pounds it takes to collapse it all the way down,like a valve spring tester.
I hope to get the rear shocks checked out by myself today as well and see if same deal on them.If buying new front shocks do you think I should just replace the rears as well?The fronts look like original parts so without looking would think the same original still on the rear.Car has 47k miles i think it was..
Now car will grounded/parked,after new tires this week,until it gets right so that I can take it in for a alignment.

 

posted up in your other thread about the shocks. Personally, if the rears are not bouncing or the bushings are not shot on the lower end (the tops usually last forever), I'd pass on them and focus on the front.