Guys, I just installed a small upper pulley on the Eaton M112 Supercharger setting atop my 2003 4.2L engine.

The car was running fine when I made this change. Tonight, I am going to do the final reassembly and probably take her for the first drive with the higher boost potential pulley.

Do I really need to reset the engine ECU before I start and drive her out of the garage. Or will the ECU compensate on its own?

If I do need to reset the 'puter - What's the choice way to do so? I don't want to lose my radio codes in the process.

-Max

 

No you don't...... However don't go mad straight away, your ECU needs time to adjust to the extra air coming into the engine, if you don't you could run lean and cause some damage...... 500 miles is the suggestion it's not so bad when you have just done the single pulley more detrimental when you do both

 

The ECU will compensate the fuel trims on its own if there is a change, but the difference isn't that big, as the fuel trims are checked at closed loop (so low load driving), and the extra air is also measured air...

Personally I would always try to check the fuel trims/a2f ratio, so it’s never a bad thing to dyno your car and have the mixture measured. This way you will find out more about the performance of your car, and if all is within the right specs.

PS, Man your wife has big hands…

 

Thanks for the suggestions, I had hoped you would ring in on this-. I expected the ECU could take a bit of time for it to figure out that "Oh.? It's a hurricane, we gonna need a bit longer duty cycle these days...Better get to it!"
I will not drive easy for a tank full of fuel before I really hoof it.

I used a pulley from "powerhouse" out of the UK and it seems like a quality, precision machining. The trimming down of the supercharger snout to 54mm was a bit tedious, but I after I became frustrated with a die-grinder and a sharp cutting bit being hard to control in it's finer movements, I went to Harbor Frieght and bought a $40 hand-held belt sander and that little tool made the final finish much easier and decent looking... Heheheh - I did the hand machining of the supercharcher "In situ." Because of this, I draped the entire front of the car with a big blanket with only one hole cut out for the super, snout - so that the ubiquitous aluminum dust - which still got everywhere, would be contained ! It still took me 30 minutes with a vacuum to clean up the powder aluminum. Boy, would I ever have liked to have had that much powdered aluminum as a boy! I have HEARD, that when carefully mixed (I, of course, know NOTHING about this ) that much powdered AL mixed with a bunch of KClO3 makes a great flash salute! BOOOOOOM !



Yes, YES she does- She is very approving of the fact All three of our Jags (two former XJRs) have had exceptionally long and comfortable shoulder belts! Hmmm, I wonder why our cars have such long belts..... Perhaps, If I ever get to the UK, I just MAY enjoy the sights in Covetry, England more than expected... For a couple of reasons!

Again Thanks AVOS and XKRacer - I enjoy your posts.
-Max

 

I have the same pulley from Powerhouse. It is very well made and polished however after heating it to install it the pulley is discolored. Did you have any issues aligning the heated pulley to the end of the shaft?

even as the engine adapts to the added air you will feel the faster throttle response and increased torque right away and that the whine from the supercharger is cranked up 3 steps. When the transmission kicks down on full throttle the car feels possessed in the way it accelerates. That's when I was convinced that all of the work to grind the snout was worth it. Big Fun.

 

Hey member rocklandjag, thanks for your experience. I didn't really have much problem getting the front of the pulley to meet even with the front of the shaft (plus or minus 1/2 mm as the instructions from Powerhouse say.)

I was really careful to heat it thoroughly with my torch before I presented it to the shaft and I was absolutely amazed how perfectly easy it went on! (Before is was heated there was NO WAY it would have gone on that shaft) But, for the first 10-30 seconds, the hot pulley even seamed a bit of a sloppy fit. I used a heavy metal straight edge to line it up. Of course, my heavy leather welders gloves were smoking the whole time and the smell was reminding me of helping my first girlfriend's father/rancher "cut" and brand calves!

After I was satisfied with the fit, I hit the pulley with a blast of air from my compressor for about a minute that cooled it down a bunch. I didn't like the heat discoloration, or the chunks of cow meat left on the pulley either. I used some 320 grit sandpaper and shined it back up again!

Thank you for the reassurance that I have done a good thing for my Jag - (Last night, I got lazy after dinner and didn't go back into my "Man Cave" to finish the job.) That's what Saturdays are for... Right?

-Max

 

I was very careful after my install as well. I removed the fuel pump fuses as cranked the engine a lot to make sure everything seemed OK. By the way I also cut a hole in a sheet and placed that over the snout to contain the aluminum dust while I was reducing the diameter. It made clean up really easy. Overall, I was kind of worried that there would not be enough material left to support the bearing while I did the work.

 

Guys, thanks to all for the support. I have put about 120 miles on the new pulley today. It was a wonderful, kinda cool spring day here in Kansas City - high 50s and dry. Boy, everything I had read about the small upper pulley has born true for me also. The boost in mid to upper midrange power is very noticeable ! Very nice sound also. I used a Goodyear gatorback belt and combined with the higher RPM of the Eaton, she really speaks with authority now. NICE!! Not noticeably louder when just putting around town - but punch it, and a much louder whine from under the hood greats me.

I did notice something that I've heard minor mention in other threads: When I got on the highway and was watching the tach to make the manual shift from 2nd to third - I noticed a bit of a dip in the power at about 5700-5800 rpm. Not terrible, but in my former drag racing days with big V-8s and carbs I would have jetted up the secondaries one step - as it felt like a slight leaning out at the top of the power band.

I'm wondering if that IS what is happening (leaning out) [I don't have an AFM gauge yet,] or could it be the air temp from the "heaton" supercharger spiking a that high rpm? Hmmmm, I've read a lot about methanol/water injection helping the charge temp. I've also thought a lot about adding a second intercooler radiator in series with the stock radiator to keep the charge temp down.

But, because this was a sudden, minor drop in power it kinda seems fuel related. If it is heat related, I doubt more intercooler capacity would prevent it - however, a shot of methanol might just cure both, fuel and charge temp... Hell, it might be that the ECU just hasn't ramped up the fuel pressure or the pulse width on the injectors yet. That was the one and only time I really booted it since the pulley install - and the 'puter may not have learned the character of the faster/higher boost yet.

Any input on this anomaly from the more experienced masses?

Cheers! And as always, thank you for your help and advice.

-Max

 

Would suggest 2 things:
1) Ask Powerhouse about this as he should know, and also ask for a dyno sheet so you will know what power level is within spec (ie is expected)
2) Do a dyno run and measure you A/F ratio.

Sorry to repeat it, but I only do this as it is so important to do, and is the only way to get assurance if all is right or not.

 

Thanks member avos...

I have a dyno facility only about 4 blocks from where I work. There's a long line of midlife badasses in their Corvettes, 30 somethings in their LS1 powered - what have you's, and teen machine Mustangs every Saturday morning over there. Perhaps I can sneak in there for a "long lunch" break during the week and get some numbers and real information. Sorry avos, I'm a oldtimer that is just getting used to the idea of "tune by numbers" (gauge readings and dyno numbers, that is) and now that KC lost their dragstrip of 45 years last November my oldtime style needs to go with it! Thanks for the suggestion and I'm gonna see if I can get some time on the rollers this week.

Also, I'm gonna write Powerhouse and ask them what they've seen and if they have some run documentation of similar combinations that they'd be willing to send me. They have been very responsive to questions so far...

-Max

 

Take your time for the dyno though, and make sure you tires are at the right pressure as that can have a good influence (but I think I don’t need to tell you ;-)). Let the car also run a little on the dyno so the intercoolers can cool a bit (assuming they have some good fans), and try to remember the environmentals. That including knowing what type of dyno it is I can help in giving the numbers a diagnose as well.
Andre.