New Tensioners - but no oil PX
#1
03-31-2011 | 04:39 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Florida
New Tensioners - but no oil PX
It took some time, but the secondary tensioners have been replaced and brought up to standard. (Getting the correct seals etc was difficult)Unfortunately, after the rebuild - no starting. Very low / No oil pressure! Before the replacement, I had changed the oil to synthetic - then only driven about 20 mile.
My initial thoughts were to put dribble oil back down under the rockers, then prime via the pressure switch. Even had a look with a boroscope to see if anything fell off. Nothing. Turning the engine over with the oil filter off only produced a few drops of oil.
Before I restrip the engine - even further - is there a better way to prime the oils system?
Early XK8 1997 engine.
My initial thoughts were to put dribble oil back down under the rockers, then prime via the pressure switch. Even had a look with a boroscope to see if anything fell off. Nothing. Turning the engine over with the oil filter off only produced a few drops of oil.
Before I restrip the engine - even further - is there a better way to prime the oils system?
Early XK8 1997 engine.
#2
03-31-2011 | 05:23 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 1,112
From: Ellijay
Wow! Never heard of that one. Don't mean to insult you but are you sure you put oil back in?
After an oil change it takes 20 seconds or more to get pressure back up on my car. Changing only the secondary tensioners did nothing to affect oil pressure unless your reused the tensioner bolts. The early bolts are longer and bottom out before the tensioner body seals the oil passage. But that is probably not enough to have '0' oil pressure.
. . . and welcome to the forum.
After an oil change it takes 20 seconds or more to get pressure back up on my car. Changing only the secondary tensioners did nothing to affect oil pressure unless your reused the tensioner bolts. The early bolts are longer and bottom out before the tensioner body seals the oil passage. But that is probably not enough to have '0' oil pressure.
. . . and welcome to the forum.
#4
03-31-2011 | 05:43 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,733
Likes: 2,186
From: on-the-edge
Shots in the dark ...
Did you use the shorter bolts required on the new style tensioners? If not, then the interface between the tensioner bottom and the cylinder head will not be tight. There is an oil gallery there. (as covered by "test point")
If you had it apart for a very long time, you may have lost prime because the open galleries will drain.
Here is a direct quote from the FRAM filter catalog that "may" appy in terms of similarity:
To see the full version, download the parts catalog pdf from the FRAM site.
Did you do the primaries, and are they tight?
Any seals or o-rings involved?
Is your battery fully charged? (affects cranking speed)
Did you use the shorter bolts required on the new style tensioners? If not, then the interface between the tensioner bottom and the cylinder head will not be tight. There is an oil gallery there. (as covered by "test point")
If you had it apart for a very long time, you may have lost prime because the open galleries will drain.
Here is a direct quote from the FRAM filter catalog that "may" appy in terms of similarity:
If after the oil and filter change, the red light or low oil pressure remains
for ten seconds, shut the engine off, remove the oil filter and, using an
oil squirt can with 30 weight motor oil, squirt oil several times into the
oil filter base outlet on the engine. (This will be the opening beside the
threaded stud; it will not do any good to squirt oil into the threaded
stud.) Next, fill the filter with new motor oil and reinstall. Start the
engine and check for oil pressure. In most cases the problem will be
solved.
DO NOT allow the engine to run for more than ten seconds
without oil pressure. Use a watch to time the ten seconds and be sure
of the elapsed time. In some instances the full ten seconds is needed
for the pump to recover oil flow.
If this fails, again remove the filter and crank the engine until oil spills
from the engine base. DO NOT crank over ten seconds at a time. When
oil spills, reinstall the oil filter, correct the oil level and restart the
engine. Oil pressure should now be back to normal.
for ten seconds, shut the engine off, remove the oil filter and, using an
oil squirt can with 30 weight motor oil, squirt oil several times into the
oil filter base outlet on the engine. (This will be the opening beside the
threaded stud; it will not do any good to squirt oil into the threaded
stud.) Next, fill the filter with new motor oil and reinstall. Start the
engine and check for oil pressure. In most cases the problem will be
solved.
DO NOT allow the engine to run for more than ten seconds
without oil pressure. Use a watch to time the ten seconds and be sure
of the elapsed time. In some instances the full ten seconds is needed
for the pump to recover oil flow.
If this fails, again remove the filter and crank the engine until oil spills
from the engine base. DO NOT crank over ten seconds at a time. When
oil spills, reinstall the oil filter, correct the oil level and restart the
engine. Oil pressure should now be back to normal.
Did you do the primaries, and are they tight?
Any seals or o-rings involved?
Is your battery fully charged? (affects cranking speed)
#5
03-31-2011 | 06:57 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Pump not primed
The time it took along with the new oil and hot florida weather must have dried out the pump priming system. I have spun the engine over many times. The battery has been recharged a few times also. There is oil - now overfull. I have tried to push oil back up the pressure system by using a flow gun and pushing a quart back through the pressure sending unit hole.
The parts removed in the work done was just the normal from end items for the tensioner replacement. I did not even drain the oil.
As the oil pump is on the front housing, I will have to tear everything back down again to remove it. But this time I will need to remove the chains and thus I need the full tooling. I held the chains in place with tie wraps first time around.
I am going off the premise that without oil pressure - there will be no ignition and engine start?
The parts removed in the work done was just the normal from end items for the tensioner replacement. I did not even drain the oil.
As the oil pump is on the front housing, I will have to tear everything back down again to remove it. But this time I will need to remove the chains and thus I need the full tooling. I held the chains in place with tie wraps first time around.
I am going off the premise that without oil pressure - there will be no ignition and engine start?
#6
03-31-2011 | 07:25 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 1,112
From: Ellijay
#7
03-31-2011 | 07:57 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,733
Likes: 2,186
From: on-the-edge
As "test point" points out, you are looking at two areas.
1. oil pressure
2. no start
There is no need to tear apart yet unless you have remembered something that you did wrong.
You can work on the no start first because until it starts, you do not know if oil pressure is even a problem.
To start with, check all the wiring that you might have moved to get at at things.
1. oil pressure
2. no start
There is no need to tear apart yet unless you have remembered something that you did wrong.
You can work on the no start first because until it starts, you do not know if oil pressure is even a problem.
To start with, check all the wiring that you might have moved to get at at things.
Trending Topics
#9
03-31-2011 | 10:32 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Thanks for the help.
I was under the impression that without oil pressure, the ignition would not be activated on starting. I would expect some kind of oil rise during cranking. I deffinately don't have oil pressure.
I will go back and recheck the timing - but this was checked many times.
I will advise as I find anything is wrong.
I was under the impression that without oil pressure, the ignition would not be activated on starting. I would expect some kind of oil rise during cranking. I deffinately don't have oil pressure.
I will go back and recheck the timing - but this was checked many times.
I will advise as I find anything is wrong.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dickie_L_J_O
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
8
09-13-2015 08:44 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)