Newly Purchased 1997 XK8 Convertible, but.....
#1
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Hello all,
I am new to this board. Today i just purchased a 1997 Jag XK8 for a super cheap price, but it has several issues. I was hoping to run these by yall and hopefully yall can give me some direction. Any help will be greatly appreciated
I am new to this board. Today i just purchased a 1997 Jag XK8 for a super cheap price, but it has several issues. I was hoping to run these by yall and hopefully yall can give me some direction. Any help will be greatly appreciated
- Rear Passenger Window - When i try to put the top down, the rear passenger window does not move. It then gets real loose and drops part of the way down, as if it is off track. Is this easily fixed?? It also has a gap between the front window, (very small) when rolled up. I have to manually grab the window and push it up.
- Convertible top - With the problem mentioned above, it doesn't even budge. The driver side window lowers all the way, the passenger window does not move at first, then partially drops and the top does not budge. Any ideas??
- The engine has a slight miss. The previous owner had the car parked in his driveway for over a year and didn't run it much, if at all. I drove it home, but it doesn't have much power and has a rough idle. Should i do a normal tune-up? is it easily accomplished on this car? I noticed the air intake hose it cracked up at the flexible portions of it.
- The convertible roof top is pretty dirty, but doesn't leak. Is there a great product to clean it?
#2
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I would bet that wrapping some tape around the air intake will make it run much better. It's surprising that you don't have a check engine light on. Normally that crack will cause a lean condition and then the CEL will come on.
The rear window issue is fixable, but I've heard it's a pain in the ***. There's a cable wrapped around a drum and when it comes off you it's a lot of work to get it back on. But still, it's not impossible or anything.
I'm not sure I understand your question about the convertible top. Are you saying that it doesn't go down at all?
The rear window issue is fixable, but I've heard it's a pain in the ***. There's a cable wrapped around a drum and when it comes off you it's a lot of work to get it back on. But still, it's not impossible or anything.
I'm not sure I understand your question about the convertible top. Are you saying that it doesn't go down at all?
#3
#4
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Gus will check in shortly, and he'll be helpful on that issue. I would first suggest checking the hydraulic fluid level. It's on the right side of the trunk behind the flexible "wall" above the CD changer. Also, there's a little T-handle on the pump, which is in the same location. Make sure that T handle is fully closed (clockwise).
#6
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The probable reason why your top is not going down is it's not getting a signal from the rear window you are having trouble with. The micro switch on the window is not engaging and telling the top that it's down. The top won't move til you fix the window. The parking brake has nothing to do with the top...when working properly the top can be put up or down at up to 5 mph.
#7
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You may have to select model year 2000, it looks like that is the earliest one posted, but it should be 99% applicable.
It will be worth the effort.
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#8
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A few quick thoughts as you get started.
It is possible to severly damage ($$) the top by trying to open it manually. Be sure you have read and understand the procedure for this if you decide to try it.
Can you hear the pump spinning when you try to open the top? A very different list of suspects emerges if the pump is running than if it is not. Try to open the top with the car's engine off. That way, for sure you will hear the pump if it is running.
Don't take offense, but the top up/down switch is a rocker ... be sure you're rocking it toward "open".
Good luck.
It is possible to severly damage ($$) the top by trying to open it manually. Be sure you have read and understand the procedure for this if you decide to try it.
Can you hear the pump spinning when you try to open the top? A very different list of suspects emerges if the pump is running than if it is not. Try to open the top with the car's engine off. That way, for sure you will hear the pump if it is running.
Don't take offense, but the top up/down switch is a rocker ... be sure you're rocking it toward "open".
Good luck.
Last edited by Dennis07; 08-14-2011 at 08:25 AM. Reason: clarity
#10
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If your roof is not opening you need to check the fuses and relays, the fluid level and the petcock closed. Also if it is not opening with the button you can put your key in the door lock and turn it clockwise and see what happens. See if you can hear the pump running. I have a lot of information on my page that should help. I will check in as often as I can but want to spend a little time with our new granddaughter. So forgive me if I do not respond quickly. I will provide links but unless you have full access you may not be able to see the pages just manually enter the link to my main page and look around. I am in the process of rewriting all my information. Your 97 xk8 might have the first generation of hoses that should be in your favor. Also if your fluid in the reservoir is green you should be ok if not and it looks brown the fluid will need to be changed. Like I said I will try to check in and help I know others will be involved to help.
Auto Repair
System Evaluation
Hydraulic Fluid
Hyd Roof Operation
Auto Repair
System Evaluation
Hydraulic Fluid
Hyd Roof Operation
#11
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thanks everyone, this gives me a good start.
One more thing, the check engine light came on this morning and also a poor performance reading. Is there an easy way to check codes, if so, does an autopart store have the capability of checking? I am sure that the scanner would cost a bunch of money. Thanks.
One more thing, the check engine light came on this morning and also a poor performance reading. Is there an easy way to check codes, if so, does an autopart store have the capability of checking? I am sure that the scanner would cost a bunch of money. Thanks.
#12
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When you say "poor performance", do you mean "restricted performance"? That's a message that pops up on the display when the ECU detects a problem that could damage the engine. It restricts the output of the engine to allow you to "limp home".
Any auto parts store will read your codes for free, but you could start by taping up that leak in the intake. It's causing the engine to run lean, and that could cause the restricted performance.
Any auto parts store will read your codes for free, but you could start by taping up that leak in the intake. It's causing the engine to run lean, and that could cause the restricted performance.
#13
#14
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More than likely, those are all P-codes, and if you do a search on the forum header up there, typing in one, or multiple ones, you'll find much of what you seek.
P0207, P0300, P1316, P1643
P1000 (do not worry about this one, its jag proprietary, means codes were cleared and system cycles not complete). When it changes to P1111, you'll have all systems go.
Remember, the xk8-r (1997-2002) and xj8-r (1997-2003), even a few of the s-types have the same 4.0L engine, so lots of similar cross-reference threads that will apply, so consider including those sub-forums in your advanced search.
My first recommendation, read and read...the XK8-XKR Frequently Asked Questions. Its there for new members and new buyers of these cars, where 90% of your issues have already been addressed and linked - especially the 'major' ones.
P0207, P0300, P1316, P1643
P1000 (do not worry about this one, its jag proprietary, means codes were cleared and system cycles not complete). When it changes to P1111, you'll have all systems go.
Remember, the xk8-r (1997-2002) and xj8-r (1997-2003), even a few of the s-types have the same 4.0L engine, so lots of similar cross-reference threads that will apply, so consider including those sub-forums in your advanced search.
My first recommendation, read and read...the XK8-XKR Frequently Asked Questions. Its there for new members and new buyers of these cars, where 90% of your issues have already been addressed and linked - especially the 'major' ones.
Last edited by H20boy; 08-14-2011 at 06:53 PM.
#15
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Hey briand, I just fixed my rear window the other day. It is very tricky, and very patience testing, but able to be done. I managed to fix mine in 5 hours, but that was rushing it. I am in the process of writing a how to, but do to the complexity, will take a lot of "steps". If you tackle it before I get it posted, shoot me a PM, and I will give you my telephone number and instruct over the phone. And that goes for anyone else doing this job as well. It can get a little frustrating and overwhelming at first, but once you get all the bugs worked out and fixed right, you will have a great dependable fun car. Dont give up, hang in there.
#16
#17
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The fact that you had a P1000 code tells me that the seller cleared the codes before you bought it in order to turn off the check engine light. That is pretty unscrupulous, and I wouldn't hold it against you if you tracked him down and slashed his tires.
Have you taped up the hole in your intake yet? That could solve most of your problems.
Have you taped up the hole in your intake yet? That could solve most of your problems.
#18
#19
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I don,t own a "Rag top", being in UK only be useful 2 days a effin year if lucky, but It breaks my heart when I hear stories like this! How the eff can previous owners let there cars get into such disrepair.
I agree with the Reverand, and think the seller was a cad and a charlatan- "Been on my drive a year son, havn,t run it much" What crap! heard it a thousand times!!!! But, with the help of this site it can be fixed! Hoorrarr!
Bob
I agree with the Reverand, and think the seller was a cad and a charlatan- "Been on my drive a year son, havn,t run it much" What crap! heard it a thousand times!!!! But, with the help of this site it can be fixed! Hoorrarr!
Bob