Nikasil engine problems
#21
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Posts: n/a
engine restore oil
http://www.ametech.co.uk
and click the link to americantechnology.co.uk where is explains re-metalizing.
the customer testimonials provide some interesting reading.
#22
#24
I do not want to cut you short but the only way to know is to check the engine serial # and that information is on my page in this link http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNikasil.htm or if the car is a 2002 or newer. Why do you ask?
#25
I do not want to cut you short but the only way to know is to check the engine serial # and that information is on my page in this link http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNikasil.htm or if the car is a 2002 or newer. Why do you ask?
Its within my price range but there is only about 6 months warranty left on the car. I don't want to get stuck with a lemon.
I know the timing tensioner, water pump, thermostat and trans fluid needs to be done.
My feeling is that I should chase the 2002+ model rather than risking a possible money pit.
#26
I am not an expert but knowing what I know now about Nikasil if the compression is good and a good service record for the car you should be OK. I would be sure that the throttle body (Service Action S514?) was complied with for that car and the system was reflashed TSB 303-52 & 303-35 to prevent cylinder washing. Also TSB 303-58 throttle body position sensor. And I think you would be good to go. Like any other xk owner good luck!
#27
The first steel lined AJ26 was number 0008181043. This is a date code and translates to 18th August 2000 @ 10.43am. No Nikasil after that date. AIUI, Nikasil is vulnerable if high sulfur fuel is combined with short journeys in which the engine doesn't reach proper operating temperature. When used "properly" the Nikasil hardens with use and ends up being better than steel.
If it starts first time from cold, and first time from hot I'd say that the engine was okay. Post 2002 gives you 4.2 liters, and a 6 speed gearbox (and slightly better fuel economy!).
If it starts first time from cold, and first time from hot I'd say that the engine was okay. Post 2002 gives you 4.2 liters, and a 6 speed gearbox (and slightly better fuel economy!).
#28
What is the brand name of the engine restorer you use?
Funny, I was thinking that something like that might help and that was before reading your post.
I have seen a product the is made for different engine sizes (4-6-8cyl) and it claimed to re-line the cylinder bores and restore compression.
Funny, I was thinking that something like that might help and that was before reading your post.
I have seen a product the is made for different engine sizes (4-6-8cyl) and it claimed to re-line the cylinder bores and restore compression.
#29
This is a link to my new page for Nikasil Jaguar Nikasil Engine Blocks & Jaguar Nikasil & Sulfur
This is the product I used Restore USA - Engine Restorer
This is the product I used Restore USA - Engine Restorer
#35
It rolled off the production line in May 2000, so it definitely has Nikasil. I haven't checked the engine code, but the car has full service history, and no mention of engine change.
#36
God, I'm really tired of people saying "Nikasil issue".
Nikasil never has been or is an issue. Nikasil coated liners are far better than steel liners.
Bad gasoline with high sulfur content was the issue.
If you have a car that has Nikasil lined cylinders and it's running fine RIGHT NOW you're better off than someone with steel liners.
The paranoia associated with Nikasil is tiresome and outdated.
Nikasil never has been or is an issue. Nikasil coated liners are far better than steel liners.
Bad gasoline with high sulfur content was the issue.
If you have a car that has Nikasil lined cylinders and it's running fine RIGHT NOW you're better off than someone with steel liners.
The paranoia associated with Nikasil is tiresome and outdated.
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JKo (11-26-2011)
#38
Ok, I'll try my very best not to call it an issue
I've read your writings about Nikasil, Gus, and I will take good care of the engine with that in mind.
I'll give that fuel additive a go. I'll be replacing spark plugs (wasn't done at 60K service for some reason) and fuel filter tomorrow, will see if that makes any difference. And I noticed that a previous owner had put in a 75Ah battery that is a bit short on cranking amps vs. the original 100Ah unit...
I've read your writings about Nikasil, Gus, and I will take good care of the engine with that in mind.
I'll give that fuel additive a go. I'll be replacing spark plugs (wasn't done at 60K service for some reason) and fuel filter tomorrow, will see if that makes any difference. And I noticed that a previous owner had put in a 75Ah battery that is a bit short on cranking amps vs. the original 100Ah unit...
#39
Ok, I'll try my very best not to call it an issue
I've read your writings about Nikasil, Gus, and I will take good care of the engine with that in mind.
I'll give that fuel additive a go. I'll be replacing spark plugs (wasn't done at 60K service for some reason) and fuel filter tomorrow, will see if that makes any difference. And I noticed that a previous owner had put in a 75Ah battery that is a bit short on cranking amps vs. the original 100Ah unit...
I've read your writings about Nikasil, Gus, and I will take good care of the engine with that in mind.
I'll give that fuel additive a go. I'll be replacing spark plugs (wasn't done at 60K service for some reason) and fuel filter tomorrow, will see if that makes any difference. And I noticed that a previous owner had put in a 75Ah battery that is a bit short on cranking amps vs. the original 100Ah unit...
Anyway, the only real issue is if you let the car overheat it will likely cylinder wash and, two different Jag mechanics I've talked to say throwing a little oil down the plug holes usually cures cylinder wash on the Nikasil XKs.
#40
I've used engine restoration products before, and on top of restoring some products claim that it will stay on metal surfaces for a good while (like 50K miles) protecting against poor lubrication e.g. when starting cold.
And then there are ester based oils (like Motul 300V which I prefer for track use) that are said to leave a more persistent film of oil on surfaces.
Seems to me like both of the above could be used as a precautionary method to decrease the effects of cylinder wash...
And then there are ester based oils (like Motul 300V which I prefer for track use) that are said to leave a more persistent film of oil on surfaces.
Seems to me like both of the above could be used as a precautionary method to decrease the effects of cylinder wash...
Last edited by JKo; 11-27-2011 at 03:12 AM.