no start problem - haven't found similar one
#1
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Since we obtain our convertible about 7 years ago, the check engine has been a recurring problem for different reasons. One year, after having the MAF resolved, and passing emission testing, on came the light on the way home from test center! Well, this summer, the light has been on/off on its own several times, but always ran well with no apparent performance problems. The codes were typically P0172 & P0175, indicating rich, and P1000 but then the codes included P1143 indicating heated O2 sensor from lean running(?), and the sounded a little hesitant, so the car sat in the garage for about a month. I was given the suggestion that a temp sensor may be causing the rich codes since a cooler temp would cause the rich readings from both banks. So, last week, I erased the codes with the intention to take a spin and learn what codes would again appear. The engine started, but seemed to be running slightly rough, so I postponed the ride. The following day, and every day since it will not start. The engine turns over freely, but gives no indication of starting. My limited expertise believes it to be the result of getting no ignition. When checking the OBD, first I get an error message, then I get only code P1000, while the failure notices on the dash are TRAC & ASC NOT AVAILABLE. In my research I learned that the failure of the antenna to operate may be another indication of the same issue.
My question is where to start? If it is the ignition, what and where would I look? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanx,
Ray
My question is where to start? If it is the ignition, what and where would I look? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanx,
Ray
#2
#3
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Agree that a low battery may be a problem, the TRAC & ASC NOT AVAILABLE is an early symptom, also could be suffering from bore wash - many posts about this, especially on the earlier models. Bore wash will stop the car from starting, but it will turn over fine - even faster than usual due to lack of compression. It seems that the more these cars sit, the more issues crop up.
#4
#5
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Thanks for your replies. I totally agree that regular, if small, use is essential. Usually, I use the car at least every 10 days for whatever daily need requires driving. I also thought a weak battery may be at issue, so I checked, and even recharged the relatively new battery. It holds a good charge. My problem right now is that in order to see if any codes are still active, I need to start the engine, and it won't start. Again, my ear says that it is not getting any ignition, because the engine turns smoothly with the starter with no indication of any spark. If it were a lack of fuel, I would think there would be some sort of "popping" sound.
Thank you!
Ray
Thank you!
Ray
#6
#7
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So you have crank but no start. Lets talk about the codes you have.
P0172 & P0175
A bank combustion too rich Engine at normal operating temperature; IAT > 18 °F (-8 °C); drive at steady speed > 40 mph; > 1 minute
When CK ENG MIL is activated (DTC flagged; second trip), ECM: – Inhibits downstream HO2S control If DTC P0175 is also flagged, ECM: – Limits engine speed to 3000 rpm – Inhibits canister purge
Blocked air filter Fuel system return blockage Leaking fuel injector(s) Fuel pressure regulator failure (high fuel pressure) ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components: ECTS, MAFS, IATS, TPS
P1000
Further confirmation of the System Readiness Test status is available by retrieving the logged DTCs. – If DTC P1000 is logged in memory, the on-board diagnostic tests have not been completed. – If DTC P1111 is logged in memory, all on-board diagnostic tests have been completed.
P1143
AACV (air assist close valve) range / performance
Engine at normal operating temperature; IAT > 18 °F (-8 °C); drive and accelerate to 60 mph (100 km/h); release the accelerator and coast to 37 mph (60 km/h); engine rpm 1000 – 3000 during coast
AAI piping blocked Throttle body air channel blocked AACV stuck.
The AACV Air assist control valve I understand is located on the throttle body so my first direction would be to check and clean all plugs associated with the throttle body.
Link to Codes for 2000 XK8 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...7_ECM_2000.pdf
Now the no start situation could be caused by many things but you should first check for fuel and spark.
Link to check spark
I am going to attach a link of things to check when you have a no start situation. I did notice that your car is a 2000 xk8 and it may be equipped with a Nikasil block and you could cylinder washing. When starting the car does it sound like it has compression or is it spinning freely?
Link to no start JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link to no start JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link to Nikasil JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
P0172 & P0175
A bank combustion too rich Engine at normal operating temperature; IAT > 18 °F (-8 °C); drive at steady speed > 40 mph; > 1 minute
When CK ENG MIL is activated (DTC flagged; second trip), ECM: – Inhibits downstream HO2S control If DTC P0175 is also flagged, ECM: – Limits engine speed to 3000 rpm – Inhibits canister purge
Blocked air filter Fuel system return blockage Leaking fuel injector(s) Fuel pressure regulator failure (high fuel pressure) ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components: ECTS, MAFS, IATS, TPS
P1000
Further confirmation of the System Readiness Test status is available by retrieving the logged DTCs. – If DTC P1000 is logged in memory, the on-board diagnostic tests have not been completed. – If DTC P1111 is logged in memory, all on-board diagnostic tests have been completed.
P1143
AACV (air assist close valve) range / performance
Engine at normal operating temperature; IAT > 18 °F (-8 °C); drive and accelerate to 60 mph (100 km/h); release the accelerator and coast to 37 mph (60 km/h); engine rpm 1000 – 3000 during coast
AAI piping blocked Throttle body air channel blocked AACV stuck.
The AACV Air assist control valve I understand is located on the throttle body so my first direction would be to check and clean all plugs associated with the throttle body.
Link to Codes for 2000 XK8 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...7_ECM_2000.pdf
Now the no start situation could be caused by many things but you should first check for fuel and spark.
Link to check spark
I am going to attach a link of things to check when you have a no start situation. I did notice that your car is a 2000 xk8 and it may be equipped with a Nikasil block and you could cylinder washing. When starting the car does it sound like it has compression or is it spinning freely?
Link to no start JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link to no start JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link to Nikasil JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
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#8
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Interesting, no start. I have some suggestions for what it's worth.
These early cars cannot be started and moved five feet and shut down. The 4.2 is totally different and has no problem. Battery on these early cars are super sensitive, they only need to drop a few volts and the electronics fail to boot properly, and you get all sorts of errors.
If you've floored the throttle when cranking and it doesn't start, then I would suspect the fuel pump. These fail without notice on some of these early cars, especially when not used very often. So before rushing in to spark issues, check fuel pressure. When you have 40 psi, then look elsewhere at your original codes.
The MAF can be the source of lean running, but if you have changed that, and still convinced that it was a genuine Denso MAF, not a cheap imitation ( I have had one, looks like the right jacket, but the electronics inside won't give the right fuel profile for the XK8.), result was p172. Swapped for known good one, and code goes away. BUT I would suspect that it would run with a dodgy MAF, but badly, and with spark, I figure that one of the 8 is going to fire.
I'd rule out air leak, since you've done nothing since it last ran.
Think you need to just sit down and check fuel pressure, and go from there. Good Luck.
These early cars cannot be started and moved five feet and shut down. The 4.2 is totally different and has no problem. Battery on these early cars are super sensitive, they only need to drop a few volts and the electronics fail to boot properly, and you get all sorts of errors.
If you've floored the throttle when cranking and it doesn't start, then I would suspect the fuel pump. These fail without notice on some of these early cars, especially when not used very often. So before rushing in to spark issues, check fuel pressure. When you have 40 psi, then look elsewhere at your original codes.
The MAF can be the source of lean running, but if you have changed that, and still convinced that it was a genuine Denso MAF, not a cheap imitation ( I have had one, looks like the right jacket, but the electronics inside won't give the right fuel profile for the XK8.), result was p172. Swapped for known good one, and code goes away. BUT I would suspect that it would run with a dodgy MAF, but badly, and with spark, I figure that one of the 8 is going to fire.
I'd rule out air leak, since you've done nothing since it last ran.
Think you need to just sit down and check fuel pressure, and go from there. Good Luck.
#9
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First off excellent post by Gus. I enjoyed reading it.
P1000 nothing to worry about.
As for the rest I too can attest to the high probability of a battery problem. You get all sorts of weird symptoms when the battery charge/condition is low. I too had the no trac etc message. Luckily I have a CTEK battery charger I put it on the car. Put it onto the reconditioning & charge section. Left it a couple of days and, touch wood, plastic etc, the problem went away and has not been back since. Its winter here so this is the time of year that takes the most out of batteries. The CTEK charger was not cheap but cheaper than a new battery and it has been useful for other stuff too.
So good advice from other posters. Hope you sort it.
P1000 nothing to worry about.
As for the rest I too can attest to the high probability of a battery problem. You get all sorts of weird symptoms when the battery charge/condition is low. I too had the no trac etc message. Luckily I have a CTEK battery charger I put it on the car. Put it onto the reconditioning & charge section. Left it a couple of days and, touch wood, plastic etc, the problem went away and has not been back since. Its winter here so this is the time of year that takes the most out of batteries. The CTEK charger was not cheap but cheaper than a new battery and it has been useful for other stuff too.
So good advice from other posters. Hope you sort it.
#10
#11
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Well, some good news and thank you for everyone's help!! I still have a few things I'm going to monitor.
I didn't have the opportunity to get back to do anything until today. Using the suggestions the good members here offered, I was finally able to get the persnickety cat to cooperate! She started with a little sputter, which continued for a moment or two until she started to warm up a little. Then I took out on the road, where there still seemed to be a minor miss, which smoothed out in just a couple blocks down my street. I kept going for around 10 miles and everything seemed to smooth out very well, with good running and acceleration, etc. Check engine light never went out, so I checked them, which reported 6: P1000 (of course), P0301, P0302, P0303, P0172, and P1316 -- all of which would refer to the rough idling when first started. Usually the check engine light and codes won't reset themselves 2 or 3 short runs, or a longer run, so as long as everything is running the way it should, I'll keep my eye on the check engine light and codes to see if I should become more concerned.
Once again Thank You everyone!!
Ray
I didn't have the opportunity to get back to do anything until today. Using the suggestions the good members here offered, I was finally able to get the persnickety cat to cooperate! She started with a little sputter, which continued for a moment or two until she started to warm up a little. Then I took out on the road, where there still seemed to be a minor miss, which smoothed out in just a couple blocks down my street. I kept going for around 10 miles and everything seemed to smooth out very well, with good running and acceleration, etc. Check engine light never went out, so I checked them, which reported 6: P1000 (of course), P0301, P0302, P0303, P0172, and P1316 -- all of which would refer to the rough idling when first started. Usually the check engine light and codes won't reset themselves 2 or 3 short runs, or a longer run, so as long as everything is running the way it should, I'll keep my eye on the check engine light and codes to see if I should become more concerned.
Once again Thank You everyone!!
Ray
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#13
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Well, here's the good news. After getting her started yesterday, I used her today just as part of the routines to be done. All day, she ran smoothly. The third start of the day, after lunch, she started and the check engine light went out on its own! When I got home and checked, there were no codes. Used it with 2 more starts and runs this afternoon and still no check engine light/no codes. Just a little note for those facing the same problem, when trying to get her started for the first time yesterday, at some point I stopped holding the gas petal to the floor, and that's when she finally started. I would have trouble describing when in the process because it was more by ear - how the sounds of the starter and engine changed in the attempt. Keep in mind, holding the petal to the floor while the starter is engaged actually cuts off fuel to the cylinders, so, releasing the petal again pumps fuel through the injectors.
And, thanx JimmyL, Yes the 800 lb. gorilla was addressed when I first got her a few years ago. I was aware of the potential problem so I got and changed the entire timing chain kit - chains, guides and tensioners.
Again, thank you all for your help. I'm certain without the aid of this forum, I wouldn't have been able to find and resolve this particular problem.
Ray
And, thanx JimmyL, Yes the 800 lb. gorilla was addressed when I first got her a few years ago. I was aware of the potential problem so I got and changed the entire timing chain kit - chains, guides and tensioners.
Again, thank you all for your help. I'm certain without the aid of this forum, I wouldn't have been able to find and resolve this particular problem.
Ray
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