No, not cause I ate chili.....I have a brushing/scraping sound from the driver's rear wheel, varies directly with speed, definately in the wheel. Does not change with brakes, not a squeak but a rubbing/brushing sound. I thought it was probably the brakes, took the wheel off and the pads and rotor looks really good, so I didn't take the caliper and rotor off. I was told by the dealer that serviced it before I bought it the brakes were done 10K miles ago. My though is it has something to do with the parking brake? I adjusted it so it was looser, seemed the noise was almost gone for about 3 miles then it came back as strong as ever. Am I on the right path here? God forbid its a bearing issue or something scary bad......

 

Just some thoughts?
With noise isolated at left rear, and after 3 miles of driving, noise returns, possibly a heat related issue - ie: warped rotor after heat build up and rotor/brake pad rubbing.
Did you drive vehicle with spare to eliminate noise coming from tire/wheel normally mounted on left rear. (I have seen tires breakdown on the inside where rubber particles are rolling around inside of tire, making a noise)
Outer universal joints greased on half shaft.
Something caught between ABS brake sensor and rotating pick up.
Possibly, after hearing noise, go to a facility with a two post swing arm lift and, with vehicle engaged, view drive train in motion.
Probably thoughts you've already had, but thought I may try to offer something.

 

My GUESS is that you have some corrosion in the caliper causing the piston to hang up a bit and cause the pad to scrape the rotor. Try lightly touching the brake pedal while hearing the scraping to see if anything changes.

Wonder why the pads were changed with 12k miles on the clock. Might have been to solve the caliper issue in a car that had sat for years.

Your GUESS as to the parking brake is also a good one that can be tested. When hearing the scraping raise the leaver a bit, while holding the button, and see if anything changes.

 

I would pull the caliper off and depress the piston and reinstall. This should find any problems in the caliper area. Work the handbrake to see if the parts are free. a '99 with such low miles can have brake piston seizures. I suggest changing the brake fluid as part of the procedure.

 

To clarify, the brakes were done by the dealer at 15K, it now has 27K (just changed the signature, sorry) I am not positive if it was all 4 or just the fronts, it was owned by a celebrity so I imagine his people just had the dealer do whatever whenever, I doubt money was an issue. The use of the brakes has no effect at all, no change other than the obvious slow down of the noise as the car slows. I did notice today that if the car bounces, for a split second as the weight is off the chassie it disappears.

 

It does sound like brakes but without hearing the noise do not rule out the possibility of a bad or failing universal joint. I replaced two on my 99. Do not limit your search to the brakes.

 

i used to have a noise from the rear of my s type..but she cant get into the rear of my xkr so the noise is now in the front

 

You know, this sounds just like something Reverend Sam would say ...

 

Well I finally got to tear into the back wheels, hoping/assuming it was a brake issue. The pads were great, the drivers rotor was marginal, not rough but rather lippped and I'm assuming warped, passengers side much better. Bought 2 new rotors as the old ones were beyond turning per the rotor turning guy, I was told by previous dealer in Dallas that it had brakes at 15K, I thought it was just front but it appears it was all 4. ANYWAY... got it back together and was feeling very smug about my achievment, but then noticed considerable play top to bottom if you grab the tire on the drivers side, virtually none on the pass side. It has very little side to side but grab the top and bottom of the tire and you can rock it almost an inch, from the back side I can watch the u joint rocking in the big housing that it sits in behind the wheel, gotta be the bearing right? Never seen any vehicle/trailer tire that can wobble that much. Then next question how advanced of project is this, I'm kinda feeling like it's time to hand her over to the pros

 

That is how I found my failing “U” joint, top to bottom play. Put your hand on the “U” joint to verify and if you are not sure compare to the other side. Remember that you have 2 on each side 4 total.

 

Gus,
I have zero play on the other side, wouldnt the bearing have to have the slop in itto allow the wheel to move? I can see how a bearing might take the u joint with it, but wouldn't it be the bearing before the joint in terms of failure? Maybe I don't know enough about the assy nack there, I just know it reminds me of the boat trailer losing a bearing

 

You will see what I am saying if you get someone to rock the wheel and you look at the “U” joint. What is taking place is that the worn “U” joint is allowing the rocking to take place. Please use jack stands or a lift not a jack to get under the car.

 

crawled under her and watched/felt the joint as the wife wiggled (the tire) and turned it to several positions in the process. The Joint appears and feels quite tight, but I could watch what I'm guessing is the wheel speed disc (looks like a gear against the back of the wheel) moving up and down while the back of the wheel assy stays still. I know your affinity for video from watching all yours, here it is in action
Jaguar :: VIDEO0002.mp4 video by cheaperts - Photobucket

 

Do you have the same rocking left to right? Looking at your video I would say you are probably correct. I have not run across this before and would like to see what you find. As for the videos it is Sam’s videos you are seeing, I do not do videos all my info is on my page www.jagrepair.com

 

mostly top to bottom, not much left to right which I chocked up to possibly the facxt that the calliper is more to the side and may be lessening the side play, and yeah I Read all your stuff and Watch sams!

 

Could also be your ABS ring (that gear looking thing) has come loose from the hub, there's another thread around here there had the exact same thing happen. Take it apart even farther down than the brake rotors to confirm. It may be as simple as having the ABS ring re-pressed back (take it to a shop) and locked back down. Worse case, bearings...which I have heard from my indy shop, is a weak point on our cars if driven at high speeds for any amount of time, but your low mileage makes that seem unlikely. my money's on that abs ring

 

I attempted to paste in the rear suspension illustration after viewing your video, but was unable to do so; however, the illustration, which may be helpful, is in the 2nd Sticky: FAQ/DIY Repair & Maintenace Links. Once opened, scroll down to Parts Lists & Diagrams, pages 11-23 (in pdf) and open. Then scroll down to Pg.653-Rear Suspension, with pictures and a parts list for the rear suspension.
While not ruling out the outer U-joint, as previously mentioned, you may be on to something when describing a worn out bearing. There is a carrier bearing at the base of the hub assembly, in which a sleeve and pivot pin go through. This could be worn, letting the hub assembly move up and down.
Also, there is an outer bearing and an inner bearing in the hub assembly itself, along with spacers and shims, that would permit movement, should the components be damaged or worn.
And, last but not least, there is a hub collar and hub nut at the end of the outer shaft (in the center of the rotor) that possibly could be loose.
Just some additional suggestions.

 

Hope this helps.

 

yeeehhhh...so that looks like something my neighbors the mechanics would like to R&R, if I'm reading things right the book calls for 3 hrs, so about 300.00 parts and labor I think....Bet I can trade then for some Hoodies! (I own a print shop "CHEAPER T's" ) I know my limits and bearings are outside of them!

 

STATUS UPDATE:

Well my neighbors the mechanics got the broken paw dissassembled, the outer bearing and race were great, the inner completly distroyed, the hub is torn up and the speed ring for the ABS is shot. They were going to call Jag dealer in town to quote the parts, got other recommendations for me on these parts? Coventry West or anyone else? Or is this something that needs new factory parts?