Staying pretty cold down here, and sure that its a contributor to my latest concern.

Noise is coming from the front of the engine, video is up next, just click the image to go there.



To me, it sounds like the power steering pump, only because in the video when the sound gets crazy, thats' when I was turning the steering wheel.

Any other ideas?

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PS, on a side note, when I removed the engine cover, I had to unscrew the oil cap to get it off, and when I did, the engine almost stalled. I had no idea that would happen, any idea why?

 

I would utilize a mechanics stethoscope to locate the source. If you dont have one, a long metal bar held up to the ear is a good second. Try the obvious sources first, power steering pump, tensioner, water pump bearing, AC clutch ???

 

Water pump was my second guess, geez hope its not the that, the dealer just replaced that last year.

Not too familiar with the parts specifically, but sounds loudest at top right, if you're looking at it from the front.

 

Start the car then turn the wheels (power steering pump), turn off or on the A/C (A/C compressor), turn the A/C and lights on (alternator). This is not fool proof way to narrow it down but could put you in the right direction. If you find no change you may want to check your tensioner or idler. I am not ruling out the water pump just that you recently replaced it. Gordo’s suggestion to use a mechanics stethoscope is the way to go often when one is not available you can use a long screwdriver works well. My guess is the tensioner bearing.

 

sounds like an old Ford power steering unit on a cold day to me.

 

Did I mention, it only lasts for about 60 seconds, then slowly gets quieter? Not all at once, but slowly.

It has been about 60,000 miles since the drive belt was replaced.

 

I go with Gus, Tensioner bearing begins to heat up and things are good again. You are due for a drive belt, why not change the belt and tensioner together.

Tensioner is easy to do once you see the mechanics of how it works and how it is attached to the engine. And once the tensioner is retracted, the drive belt just slips over all the pulley and wheels. If you can also get underneath the front end, it helps having access to the bottom pulleys. It is really not a difficult job at all.

PS make a diagram BEFORE you remove the old belt ;-)

 

Hmmmm, possibly could try this myself. It can't be too hard. Will ponder that over the football holiday.

 

Go to my page http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairBeltTensioner.htm

Good Luck!

Thought it was added to the FAQ. Guess Not!

 

I usually chase sounds with a heater hose. Rubber is more condusive to not breaking something if you get to close.

Not that you want to do this but pulling the radiator will give you all the room you will need.

When I had to change the hoses I used a pump to suck out all of the antifreeze. You will notice the lower hose inlet is actually above the bottom of the radiator. This will allow you to clamp off the lower hose and not lose any antifreeze from the lower block.

Since the tanks are on the sides of the radiator you can get the pump tubing all the way down to get 95% of the fluid out of the radiator.

Just a thought I usually will do this at as a last resort on any car, but you will be amazed how much room you get with that thing out of the way.

I got this style pump from k mart for under $15.00. The hose clamp pliers are also a must. Without them the lower hose will take you hours.
Or you could opt to take the spring clamps off and replace them with breeze clamps.

 

Decided to do the idler and belt tensioner project myself.

Gus or Gordo, do either of you have a guide so that I can open my bonnet further than the normal range...I remember that there IS a way so my access is not as limited, but don't want to break anything.

Pics are good, I've very visual when it comes to education.

 

Remove the pneumatic lifts which support the hood, and raise the hood to 90 degrees vertical. On the each hinge, there is a hole through which a 3/8" bolt or screwdriver can be inserted to prevent the hood from moving off the perpendicular. At first this appears precarious, however, it is in fact quite stable.

To remove the lifts, first identify the ball and socket attachment points on the underside of the hood (and the engine bay). You will find a circular wide steel spring clip which holds ball into the socket cup. On either side of the clip, there is a small slot through which a narrow srewdriver may be inserted to pry up the clip. Take care to hold the clip, as they can fly off into 'outer space'. Once pulled loose from the ball the spring clip should be reattached to the socket assy.

I use a 4-5 foot length of wood pole, like a broom handle to support the hood after removing the first side and before going around the car to detach the second side.

The return the lift to its normal configuration, the socket assy maybe pressed back onto the ball by simply snapping it together.

 

Matt,
Sorry I did not get with you earlier. I am in 24in of snow and just now got the power back on 9 ½ hrs. I guess they miss me now that I am retired!!! I did not remove or relocate the hood to replace my tensioner or idler. I did it from the side and it took me about 30 min with the wife holding the light.

 

Good info fellas, thanks. I would feel much better with the hood up further, as I'm not that familiar with the engine compartment and I don't like to lean over my fenders that much ( I know, invest in a fender protector) I'll check out what Autozone has to offer.

 

Yes a fender protector is a good idea. FYI it is all reachable and not hard to deal with. I think the only problem you may have is getting the new belt on. It can be a pain in the ***.

 

Having the hood straight up and getting rid of the struts makes it much easier to work on the front of the engine. Also get some cardboard and cut to fit in front [actually the rear] of the radiator to protect the fins.

 

Have you seen this? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=29520&page=5 Go to the last post.

 

Hmmm, noted, that may be a cheap way to go! I will try that, but order my drive belt from jag.

 

All parts ordered, i'll let you know when I get her finished...probably next weekend.

 

Started the tear down tonight...results not so good.

Idler pulley was first, the Dayco pulley from that previous link fit well, took forever to torque it down with my monstrous t-wrench.

BTW, 15mm bolt on the idler pulley.

Belt tensioner was a bee-otch to get off, very close to the radiator fan, so had to use a combination wrench, 13mm for those that are wondering.

Upon removing the tensioner pulley (again with the 15mm socket), the same Dayco pulley would not fit on the tensioner part correctly, so its off to the dealer tomorrow.

Any idea how I can torque the tensioner bolt in such close quarters?