Non-Start Condition-About to give up on car
#21
01-28-2021, 01:19 PM
Junior Member
shifter locked
Hello,
I've written before, but wanted to post again, now that I have more info. I bought my 2000 XK8 5 months ago. It has a problem where it will not start, the car will give a message of "Trans Fault, ABS Unavailable, TCS Unavailable." It will not let me move the shifter out of Park. It will crank, but will not start, and the messages will keep flashing. After 15 minutes, every time, it will "wake up" and let me start the car. The car has a P1000 code when I scanned it.
I took it to a local Jaguar "expert" shop. They said there was a problem with the J-gate shifter, a previous owner had "shaved" part of the mounting tabs and it was a problem. I paid $500 to have this replaced, and the problem did not go away. I took it back again. They then said that it was the Transmission Rotary Switch that was the problem, as it didn't know the exact position of the trans and that it would not let it start. I paid $850 for this. They also said I needed a new TCM computer, but the car should start okay without it. They did not have one available, so it was not installed. They gave me the wrong part number, which tells me they are probably just making this up, too, to try to get more money out of me, or just make it sound like they know what they are doing, when they have no clue how to fix the car. I got the car back, did not replace the TCM computer and it did not have any issues for about 8 starts, then it happened again. In addition, I'm now getting a P0172 code (too rich). I don't know if this related to anything the Jag shop did, but it's not helping! Very embarrassing when I'm there cranking the car in the parking lot and folks are staring and coming up to me "do you need a jump." At least they were trying to be helpful; very nice of them.
I do not want to take it back to the Jag shop, as I don't trust them. They already said they would not have taken the car had they known how this would go, so they don't want me back anyway. Some "experts" these guys are. They clearly were just throwing parts at the problem and doing no diagnostic work whatsoever. They also told me I need a new battery and need my parking brake adjusted, neither of which are true, so I know they are trying to scam money out of me (they really already have, but I have no definitive proof). If I take it back, they will just say I need a new TCM computer, which probably will not fix the problem and will cost more hundreds more dollars.
I found another shop that may be able to help that was recommended thru my MG club. They have a VERY good relationship with the MG club, so that may help.
Anyway, the point of this email is, before I take it to this shop, has anyone experienced an issue like this before and does anyone have any advice, based on the description I provided above? I really like this car, it's beautiful and drives nicely once it starts and gets warmed up and I would like to keep it. I've also thrown another $5,000 in other parts, repairs, factory accessories, and tires to make it more original and complete, so I'm already in over my head by a LOT (I took a known risk in purchasing the car as-is). I don't want to throw in the towel, but my money only goes so far before I have to give up. This will be my last attempt, or I may have to just scrap the car and take a massive loss, as I can't sell it in this condition. Any thoughts, advice, are solutions are greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
I've written before, but wanted to post again, now that I have more info. I bought my 2000 XK8 5 months ago. It has a problem where it will not start, the car will give a message of "Trans Fault, ABS Unavailable, TCS Unavailable." It will not let me move the shifter out of Park. It will crank, but will not start, and the messages will keep flashing. After 15 minutes, every time, it will "wake up" and let me start the car. The car has a P1000 code when I scanned it.
I took it to a local Jaguar "expert" shop. They said there was a problem with the J-gate shifter, a previous owner had "shaved" part of the mounting tabs and it was a problem. I paid $500 to have this replaced, and the problem did not go away. I took it back again. They then said that it was the Transmission Rotary Switch that was the problem, as it didn't know the exact position of the trans and that it would not let it start. I paid $850 for this. They also said I needed a new TCM computer, but the car should start okay without it. They did not have one available, so it was not installed. They gave me the wrong part number, which tells me they are probably just making this up, too, to try to get more money out of me, or just make it sound like they know what they are doing, when they have no clue how to fix the car. I got the car back, did not replace the TCM computer and it did not have any issues for about 8 starts, then it happened again. In addition, I'm now getting a P0172 code (too rich). I don't know if this related to anything the Jag shop did, but it's not helping! Very embarrassing when I'm there cranking the car in the parking lot and folks are staring and coming up to me "do you need a jump." At least they were trying to be helpful; very nice of them.
I do not want to take it back to the Jag shop, as I don't trust them. They already said they would not have taken the car had they known how this would go, so they don't want me back anyway. Some "experts" these guys are. They clearly were just throwing parts at the problem and doing no diagnostic work whatsoever. They also told me I need a new battery and need my parking brake adjusted, neither of which are true, so I know they are trying to scam money out of me (they really already have, but I have no definitive proof). If I take it back, they will just say I need a new TCM computer, which probably will not fix the problem and will cost more hundreds more dollars.
I found another shop that may be able to help that was recommended thru my MG club. They have a VERY good relationship with the MG club, so that may help.
Anyway, the point of this email is, before I take it to this shop, has anyone experienced an issue like this before and does anyone have any advice, based on the description I provided above? I really like this car, it's beautiful and drives nicely once it starts and gets warmed up and I would like to keep it. I've also thrown another $5,000 in other parts, repairs, factory accessories, and tires to make it more original and complete, so I'm already in over my head by a LOT (I took a known risk in purchasing the car as-is). I don't want to throw in the towel, but my money only goes so far before I have to give up. This will be my last attempt, or I may have to just scrap the car and take a massive loss, as I can't sell it in this condition. Any thoughts, advice, are solutions are greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
#22
01-30-2021, 11:59 AM
A little more progress made today, but a big step back also. I adjusted the transmission shift cable. It seemed to work well, but when I tried to shift it around to test it, the plastic circle washer broke in 3 pieces, so everything is out of whack now. Going to buy yet another used J-Gate shifter, since I can't just buy the circle washer. I'm pretty sure I broke it when trying to move it when it was locked in place. Maybe it was cracked already. Either way, another setback. As I'm learning more about all of this and taking things apart, I realize more and more what a clip joint the first Jaguar shop was and how badly they ripped me off.
The good news is that I got the Trans Fault, ABS Disabled and TRAC disable warnings, but was able to start the car, so the whole thing may just have to do with fine tuning the positioning of the shifter, cables, and everything else. It's also good news that I think if it happens again, if I can get this thing pieced back together, that I should be able to start it by removing the torx nut and overriding the plunger solenoid and starting the car in neutral. I guess we'll find out and I'll have to retest when it is back together again.
The other bad news is that the Restricted Performance warning is now on all the time and the engine runs very poorly, so not sure what's going on with that. Will worry about that after I try to fix the broken plastic washer in the J-Gate. Thanks again for all the advice so far.
The good news is that I got the Trans Fault, ABS Disabled and TRAC disable warnings, but was able to start the car, so the whole thing may just have to do with fine tuning the positioning of the shifter, cables, and everything else. It's also good news that I think if it happens again, if I can get this thing pieced back together, that I should be able to start it by removing the torx nut and overriding the plunger solenoid and starting the car in neutral. I guess we'll find out and I'll have to retest when it is back together again.
The other bad news is that the Restricted Performance warning is now on all the time and the engine runs very poorly, so not sure what's going on with that. Will worry about that after I try to fix the broken plastic washer in the J-Gate. Thanks again for all the advice so far.
#23
01-30-2021, 12:26 PM
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JayJagJay (01-30-2021)
#25
01-30-2021, 04:31 PM
Veteran Member
A little more progress made today, but a big step back also. I adjusted the transmission shift cable. It seemed to work well, but when I tried to shift it around to test it, the plastic circle washer broke in 3 pieces, so everything is out of whack now. Going to buy yet another used J-Gate shifter, since I can't just buy the circle washer. I'm pretty sure I broke it when trying to move it when it was locked in place. Maybe it was cracked already. Either way, another setback. As I'm learning more about all of this and taking things apart, I realize more and more what a clip joint the first Jaguar shop was and how badly they ripped me off.
The good news is that I got the Trans Fault, ABS Disabled and TRAC disable warnings, but was able to start the car, so the whole thing may just have to do with fine tuning the positioning of the shifter, cables, and everything else. It's also good news that I think if it happens again, if I can get this thing pieced back together, that I should be able to start it by removing the torx nut and overriding the plunger solenoid and starting the car in neutral. I guess we'll find out and I'll have to retest when it is back together again.
The other bad news is that the Restricted Performance warning is now on all the time and the engine runs very poorly, so not sure what's going on with that. Will worry about that after I try to fix the broken plastic washer in the J-Gate. Thanks again for all the advice so far.
The good news is that I got the Trans Fault, ABS Disabled and TRAC disable warnings, but was able to start the car, so the whole thing may just have to do with fine tuning the positioning of the shifter, cables, and everything else. It's also good news that I think if it happens again, if I can get this thing pieced back together, that I should be able to start it by removing the torx nut and overriding the plunger solenoid and starting the car in neutral. I guess we'll find out and I'll have to retest when it is back together again.
The other bad news is that the Restricted Performance warning is now on all the time and the engine runs very poorly, so not sure what's going on with that. Will worry about that after I try to fix the broken plastic washer in the J-Gate. Thanks again for all the advice so far.
If anyone of the micro switches the MCM mentioned, like on that wheel, are not closed or open when they should be, messy messy. The car has almost no tolorace for anything not being "right"... To me, it's bad engineering. I don't know why 'they' did a lot of the things they did to make such an awesome car - fussy...
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Chris Lutz (02-15-2021)
#26
01-30-2021, 09:18 PM
All I'm saying is that there is a very simple way to determine which it is and it's always my first step whether it's a car or a lawnmower. If you're beyond that then I'll just let those more knowledgeable take it from here.
#27
02-15-2021, 02:12 PM
Still working this issue, haven't thrown in the towel yet. Since my last post, I have installed a used cam plate to replace the one I broke and continued to mess around with it to see if I have the Trans Fault problem again. I've found that the right side of the J gate shift pattern is set well now, but there is a problem with the left side with manual shift. Seems this is not lined up properly, so if I go to the manual side, then go to 2nd gear, I cannot get it back into 4th gear properly (it feels like the shift gate needs to go back a little further and the "4" light will not light up, even though it will light up when I first go from "D" to "4"). It will go into gear, but it is not lined up right, so when I shift back to "D," it feels rough, then the trans will usually say "Trans Fault," and everything will go bad, the car will not shift properly after that. If I put it in park, then turn the car off and on again, all seems forgiven until I go to the manual half again.
The good news is, I've probably started the car up 25 times since I first parked it with the Trans Fault problem a few months ago and after I made the cable adjustments. I still have no idea what causes the problem, but I take this as good news in that maybe cable adjustment was the problem the whole time.
On to the next problem, the check engine light and the "Restricted Performance" warning that will come on every time I start the car. The good news here is that every time I start it and let it warm up to full operating temperature, the "Restricted Performance" warning will go away and the car seems to run just fine, although the check engine light will remain on, of course. This gives me some hope, because the car seems to do very well when I meet certain conditions, meaning that it is probably more of a computer/sensor/adjustment issue, rather than a severe mechanical issue. Of course, I should hope so, being that the car only has 41k original miles.
At this point, I need a pro again, so I'm ready to take the car in to the next Jag shop. However, the roads are fully salted now with the winter "storms" we've been having (3" of snow in norther Virginia=total panic). So, I'll have to wait until the salt goes away, usually after 2 good rain storms. I'll provide another update once I get past the salt hurdle. Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.
I agree with JayJag, this is a very poorly engineered car and is way too sensitive to small adjustments that have nothing to do with the overall function of the car. My 2000 Chevrolet Camaro SS, built the same year for less than 1/2 the price, never has any problems, and will outperform the Jaguar in every possible field, other than the quality of materials and the perfect lines of the XK8 coupe.
Cheers,
Chris
The good news is, I've probably started the car up 25 times since I first parked it with the Trans Fault problem a few months ago and after I made the cable adjustments. I still have no idea what causes the problem, but I take this as good news in that maybe cable adjustment was the problem the whole time.
On to the next problem, the check engine light and the "Restricted Performance" warning that will come on every time I start the car. The good news here is that every time I start it and let it warm up to full operating temperature, the "Restricted Performance" warning will go away and the car seems to run just fine, although the check engine light will remain on, of course. This gives me some hope, because the car seems to do very well when I meet certain conditions, meaning that it is probably more of a computer/sensor/adjustment issue, rather than a severe mechanical issue. Of course, I should hope so, being that the car only has 41k original miles.
At this point, I need a pro again, so I'm ready to take the car in to the next Jag shop. However, the roads are fully salted now with the winter "storms" we've been having (3" of snow in norther Virginia=total panic). So, I'll have to wait until the salt goes away, usually after 2 good rain storms. I'll provide another update once I get past the salt hurdle. Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.
I agree with JayJag, this is a very poorly engineered car and is way too sensitive to small adjustments that have nothing to do with the overall function of the car. My 2000 Chevrolet Camaro SS, built the same year for less than 1/2 the price, never has any problems, and will outperform the Jaguar in every possible field, other than the quality of materials and the perfect lines of the XK8 coupe.
Cheers,
Chris
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CA Jag (04-17-2021)
#28
02-15-2021, 06:59 PM
When I worked at the dealer there was a used car dealer in Dallas called Texas Mustang Sales and they would buy used Jaguars from car auctions all over the country.
The problem is that these cars sat and the battery would go FLAT. The 'lot-jockeys' would get angry that the selector was locked in PARK but they figured out that they could get a good grip on the selector lever and YANK the lever back into gear. This way no battery cart was needed and the car would roll into the isle.
The plastic housing would break and the lever would move freely into all the detents on the right BUT sometimes the lever would BEND and the selector would not function correctly in the lower selected gears. (the cross bar would no longer line up properly)
You might need to disassemble the selector lever housing complete and see if anything is bent/damaged. If the lever is bent above the engagement pegs, the upper lever will hit the back of the housing before the pegs can fit into the slots.
Just something I did a few dozen times over the years.
The problem is that these cars sat and the battery would go FLAT. The 'lot-jockeys' would get angry that the selector was locked in PARK but they figured out that they could get a good grip on the selector lever and YANK the lever back into gear. This way no battery cart was needed and the car would roll into the isle.
The plastic housing would break and the lever would move freely into all the detents on the right BUT sometimes the lever would BEND and the selector would not function correctly in the lower selected gears. (the cross bar would no longer line up properly)
You might need to disassemble the selector lever housing complete and see if anything is bent/damaged. If the lever is bent above the engagement pegs, the upper lever will hit the back of the housing before the pegs can fit into the slots.
Just something I did a few dozen times over the years.
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RJ237 (02-15-2021)
#29
04-16-2021, 07:02 PM
It's been a very long time, but here's an update, if anyone's interested. I took the car to another British car repair place. This place was worse than the last place! Although they have mostly 5-star reviews. The "good" news was that a new battery fixed most of the bad engines codes. Another broken shifter circular plate and a non-functional sensor along the side of the shifter internals were the culprits for the shifter problems, along with a misaligned shifter cable. This eliminated all the check engine lights and most codes. Right now it has no check engine light at all, although the shop said that it will still occasionally go into restricted performance mode.
As far as the emissions, the shop drove it another couple hundred miles and no matter what anyone does, the fuel evap monitor will not turn on, so I cannot get it in for emissions testing. Not sure what to do, the car has 1,300 miles of driving and the evap monitor will not "perk," so it cannot be emissions tested.
The bad news is the the shop took over 5 weeks to do this work. Zero communication, I had to call them each week to see if they were doing anything with it. It was like pulling teeth. They lied to me but constantly saying "I meant to call you" or "we were trying to call you." They had my number; they never called. I eventually gave up on them after getting the above work done, they never even got to nor tried to fix the other minor issues I told them about. Upon receipt of the car, I found that the door panel had 2-3 broken clips, so it was loose, the third brake light housing was loose and was separated from the mounting, my warning triangle that was mounted to the trunk lid had come off as was sitting on the trunk floor, as they slammed the trunk lid, apparently as hard as they could. A piece of it was found in the spare tire well, which means they did this when working on the battery, picked up the triangle kit and just threw it in the trunk, making no effort to reattach it, nor located the missing piece. I provided it to them with the console taken out for easy access, but they made no effort, nor asked me if I wanted it reinstalled. Isn't obvious that you would reinstall the console, or at least ask? The final insult was that the front end was covered in about 20 major stone chips, which tells me they must have tailgated a gravel truck. Of course, they just denied everything, as they have no integrity. How could you not notice a loose door panel? Why wouldn't you tell the owner about this? Would any other shop present a car to its owner in this state? It seems no one has any integrity, honor, sense of craftsmanship, or care anymore.
So, I made some baby steps on the car, but it's still a pile of junk, I cannot get it into a state where it can be emissions tested, and now I have many additional small problems to fix that the second shop caused. Not sure what to do with it. I want to get this car fixed up, but that seems an impossibility with the emissions problem and these scum bag shops. Very frustrating and expensive.
As far as the emissions, the shop drove it another couple hundred miles and no matter what anyone does, the fuel evap monitor will not turn on, so I cannot get it in for emissions testing. Not sure what to do, the car has 1,300 miles of driving and the evap monitor will not "perk," so it cannot be emissions tested.
The bad news is the the shop took over 5 weeks to do this work. Zero communication, I had to call them each week to see if they were doing anything with it. It was like pulling teeth. They lied to me but constantly saying "I meant to call you" or "we were trying to call you." They had my number; they never called. I eventually gave up on them after getting the above work done, they never even got to nor tried to fix the other minor issues I told them about. Upon receipt of the car, I found that the door panel had 2-3 broken clips, so it was loose, the third brake light housing was loose and was separated from the mounting, my warning triangle that was mounted to the trunk lid had come off as was sitting on the trunk floor, as they slammed the trunk lid, apparently as hard as they could. A piece of it was found in the spare tire well, which means they did this when working on the battery, picked up the triangle kit and just threw it in the trunk, making no effort to reattach it, nor located the missing piece. I provided it to them with the console taken out for easy access, but they made no effort, nor asked me if I wanted it reinstalled. Isn't obvious that you would reinstall the console, or at least ask? The final insult was that the front end was covered in about 20 major stone chips, which tells me they must have tailgated a gravel truck. Of course, they just denied everything, as they have no integrity. How could you not notice a loose door panel? Why wouldn't you tell the owner about this? Would any other shop present a car to its owner in this state? It seems no one has any integrity, honor, sense of craftsmanship, or care anymore.
So, I made some baby steps on the car, but it's still a pile of junk, I cannot get it into a state where it can be emissions tested, and now I have many additional small problems to fix that the second shop caused. Not sure what to do with it. I want to get this car fixed up, but that seems an impossibility with the emissions problem and these scum bag shops. Very frustrating and expensive.
#30
04-16-2021, 08:26 PM
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#31
04-16-2021, 08:29 PM
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#32
04-17-2021, 04:46 AM
Yes, the EPA rules are 2 monitors not ready, but I have 3 or 4, the evap is just the main problem.
#33
04-17-2021, 01:21 PM
Senior Member
Agree Z. Always impressed with how much you guys know about these cars. Still Chris, my suggest is take the time (if it's an option) to find, call and actually visit possible shops. I did this and found Stewarts Automotive (Sacramento). Clean garage w/ many classic British and high end exotics. Great shop manager. Have someone do the diagnostics then you can decide to do it yourself or pay them. I was under budget for repairs (2,500 budgeted) but tensioners are going to blow that up. Mine swapped used parts (ECU, ABS, coils) to find the problem. I hated paying a garage but couldn't pull codes. Cheap? Nope but I now get to enjoy an XK8 that sounds and drives well. Complex, fussy cars that require expert knowledge and lots of free time or a good indie that's halfway reasonably priced. With the next XK (maybeR), I'm going to spend more on a well maintained car w/ a full service history. Like the indie, worth taking the time.
ABS module (not the wheel connections) was defective. It's part of CAN so maybe a factor? Other problem was cheap non brand coils that sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Both got me a dash w/ brake message and lights that went from yellow to full red. Just tried to smog but got P1000 so have to get some emissions info. I'm using the attached drive cycle instructions. Says up to 5 cycles. Will see if it works. Comments anyone?
Good luck. Sometimes frustrating cars with weird expensive problems but the gorgeous appearance, ride comfort ride and Lexus level of finish makes it worthwhile to spend time and money.
ABS module (not the wheel connections) was defective. It's part of CAN so maybe a factor? Other problem was cheap non brand coils that sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Both got me a dash w/ brake message and lights that went from yellow to full red. Just tried to smog but got P1000 so have to get some emissions info. I'm using the attached drive cycle instructions. Says up to 5 cycles. Will see if it works. Comments anyone?
Good luck. Sometimes frustrating cars with weird expensive problems but the gorgeous appearance, ride comfort ride and Lexus level of finish makes it worthwhile to spend time and money.
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piper 888 (05-23-2021)
#34
04-17-2021, 01:55 PM
Senior Member
Agree Z. Always impressed with how much you guys know about these cars. Still Chris, my suggest is take the time (if it's an option) to find, call and actually visit possible shops. I did this and found Stewarts Automotive (Sacramento). Clean garage w/ many classic British and high end exotics. Great shop manager. Have someone do the diagnostics then you can decide to do it yourself or pay them. I was under budget for repairs (2,500 budgeted) but tensioners are going to blow that up. Mine swapped used parts (ECU, ABS, coils) to find the problem. I hated paying a garage but couldn't pull codes. Cheap? Nope but I now get to enjoy an XK8 that sounds and drives well. Complex, fussy cars that require expert knowledge and lots of free time or a good indie that's halfway reasonably priced. With the next XK (maybeR), I'm going to spend more on a well maintained car w/ a full service history. Like the indie, worth taking the time.
ABS module (not the wheel connections) was defective. It's part of CAN so maybe a factor? Other problem was cheap non brand coils that sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Both got me a dash w/ brake message and lights that went from yellow to full red. Just tried to smog but got P1000 so have to get some emissions info. I'm using the attached drive cycle instructions. Says up to 5 cycles. Will see if it works. Comments anyone?
Good luck. Sometimes frustrating cars with weird expensive problems but the gorgeous appearance, ride comfort ride and Lexus level of finish makes it worthwhile to spend time and money.
ABS module (not the wheel connections) was defective. It's part of CAN so maybe a factor? Other problem was cheap non brand coils that sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Both got me a dash w/ brake message and lights that went from yellow to full red. Just tried to smog but got P1000 so have to get some emissions info. I'm using the attached drive cycle instructions. Says up to 5 cycles. Will see if it works. Comments anyone?
Good luck. Sometimes frustrating cars with weird expensive problems but the gorgeous appearance, ride comfort ride and Lexus level of finish makes it worthwhile to spend time and money.
My daily is a Lexus GX470, and all i can say with the utmost respect that if your XK8 and Lexus are of the same build quality, you have a unicorn, the best XK8 in existance.......................or the worst put together Lexus,
#35
04-17-2021, 04:31 PM
Senior Member
LOL here. Totally agree. I own an Lexus LS430. In 5 years, zero repairs. Check tach to see if engine is running. I meant XK cosmetics is Lexus level
Double stitched leather. Wood dash. Well done controls. Trunk has the luggage webbing. Interesting the XK and 430 are pretty much same list price, length, weight and horsepower. Acceleration? 2004-2006 LS430 wins hand down. Engineering? Reliability? Different universe. Have to say a supercharger on a Lexus V8 would be very interesting.
Double stitched leather. Wood dash. Well done controls. Trunk has the luggage webbing. Interesting the XK and 430 are pretty much same list price, length, weight and horsepower. Acceleration? 2004-2006 LS430 wins hand down. Engineering? Reliability? Different universe. Have to say a supercharger on a Lexus V8 would be very interesting.
#36
04-18-2021, 08:38 AM
Thanks again for the posts. Just took it for another drive to try to get the drive cycles in. Nothing. I only have 3 of the 7 modules active. Of course, it's very difficult to get in a "proper" drive cycle with stop lights and traffic. I'm really close to selling this car, as I don't know what else to do. I haven't legally been able to drive the car since Nov 2020, so that adds a layer of stress each time I try to get the emissions to "turn on" because a cop can pull me over at any time. The money-grubbing government around here would never sympathize, they would just give me a massive ticket, or worse.
As far as shops, I visited the last shop multiple times. They are a "favored" shop with my MG club, which is another reason I chose them. To add much further insult to injury, I washed the car this morning and found a nice layer of paint overspray on my hood! It's not on the adjacent fender, so I know they had the hood up when this occurred. The paint has a texture like sand paper now. I should be able to get it off fairly easily with a clay bar treatment, but it's the principle. Of course, if I tried to sue the shop for all the damage they've done, I would lose, as I don't have definitive proof they did all of this damage, and they would just deny it. I'm still in disbelief about this shop, I don't know how these folks can sleep at night, knowing how they treated my car. Also mentioned was getting a diagnosis and an estimate. That was the original plan, but when you deal with sociopaths who simply don't call you and don't actually do any diagnostic work unless highly pressured, then that simple plan goes out the window.
If I don't give up and sell the car this week, I'm going to visit another shop with my MG club next weekend and see how they look. If I could only get over this emissions hurdle, I think I could get the other minor repairs done and maybe start to actually enjoy the car. Right now, it's a huge burden and money pit.
As far as shops, I visited the last shop multiple times. They are a "favored" shop with my MG club, which is another reason I chose them. To add much further insult to injury, I washed the car this morning and found a nice layer of paint overspray on my hood! It's not on the adjacent fender, so I know they had the hood up when this occurred. The paint has a texture like sand paper now. I should be able to get it off fairly easily with a clay bar treatment, but it's the principle. Of course, if I tried to sue the shop for all the damage they've done, I would lose, as I don't have definitive proof they did all of this damage, and they would just deny it. I'm still in disbelief about this shop, I don't know how these folks can sleep at night, knowing how they treated my car. Also mentioned was getting a diagnosis and an estimate. That was the original plan, but when you deal with sociopaths who simply don't call you and don't actually do any diagnostic work unless highly pressured, then that simple plan goes out the window.
If I don't give up and sell the car this week, I'm going to visit another shop with my MG club next weekend and see how they look. If I could only get over this emissions hurdle, I think I could get the other minor repairs done and maybe start to actually enjoy the car. Right now, it's a huge burden and money pit.
#37
04-18-2021, 08:55 AM
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OK, this is a cliche, but true nevertheless; it’s always darkest before the dawn.
In your case dawn will come when you find that shop where you are treated right. These issues can be solved by the right person. So don’t give up. Stand back and take a few deep breath’s. You are closer to enjoyment of the car than it feels like.
Z
In your case dawn will come when you find that shop where you are treated right. These issues can be solved by the right person. So don’t give up. Stand back and take a few deep breath’s. You are closer to enjoyment of the car than it feels like.
Z
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Chris Lutz (04-24-2021)
#38
04-18-2021, 09:55 AM
#39
04-18-2021, 10:06 AM
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PS: When I get over my head with some technical problem, and recognize that fact, I can feel overwhelmed. Until I realize that problem is not a technical one, it’s a people problem.
My goal then become a finding the shop with the person who has the professional level skills needed to sort thru the issues in short order. I know that is going to be doable for you.
Z
My goal then become a finding the shop with the person who has the professional level skills needed to sort thru the issues in short order. I know that is going to be doable for you.
Z
#40
04-18-2021, 01:27 PM
Senior Member
For some of us, the key is the right shop (even if it's just to get a diagnosis). Someone in the XJ section gave me the advice I'm passing on here. He also sent a list of possible shops near me. I did find my current shop from his list.
Attached are 6 possibles in your area (hopefully). Also, you're 22 miles from DC. A major city should have at least one good Jag shop. Could start a thread in here with "recommends for good shop in the DC area?" or something similar. If it's an option (like AAA member w/ free tows?) I'd drive the car (or have it towed if you have AAA freebies) to a clean well organized shop w/ older Jag experience. When I visited current shop, it helped to see a couple of XK8's in the garage! Someone that's good usually is passionate about these cars. Like Z said, find the person that has the skills and experience to figure out the problems quickly. I went thru a period of wondering why I'd ever bought the car and worrying about costs. My indie kept me sane!
Attached are 6 possibles in your area (hopefully). Also, you're 22 miles from DC. A major city should have at least one good Jag shop. Could start a thread in here with "recommends for good shop in the DC area?" or something similar. If it's an option (like AAA member w/ free tows?) I'd drive the car (or have it towed if you have AAA freebies) to a clean well organized shop w/ older Jag experience. When I visited current shop, it helped to see a couple of XK8's in the garage! Someone that's good usually is passionate about these cars. Like Z said, find the person that has the skills and experience to figure out the problems quickly. I went thru a period of wondering why I'd ever bought the car and worrying about costs. My indie kept me sane!
The following users liked this post:
Chris Lutz (04-24-2021)