Nice ride!

 

As has been said, check the compression before doing anything else. If its low, try to determine if its gasket, valves or rings by a leakdown test. The Nikasil cylinder treatment can fail if overheated and this is not considered repairable. I will say that there are companies who do this treatment and I don't see why they could not actually redo the Nikasil as a repair. Maybe no one has thought of trying before. If compression is good, then note that this series had bad water pumps that lost their plastic impellors, replace it first. Then check the secondary valve tensioners, they probably have the defective plastic bodies and need to be replaced if this is so. If one of these fails, the valves hit the pistons. The overheat may have been caused by a bad water pump, not the thermostat but replace them both to be sure.

 

Thanks Steve. That's what I get for butting in where I probably don't belong. I didn't realize they were different, sorry folks.

 

Oldmots
Thank you for your comments. Thanks to the Forum I am aware or the Nikasil issue, as well as the problem with the water pump and its plastic impeller.
I am not sure however, what to replace it with. There seems to be a big hoopla about going with metal impellers or the new redisigned plastic impeller pumps. Any recomendations? I am still confused on the issue.

The tensioner and chain change was at the top of my list of must do NOW.
If we end up opening the engine and find any of the old stuff, I will replace both upper and lower Chains and tensioners. If not, I will take of the valve covers and look at the secondary. Here too, there seems to be disagreement on weather to use solid chains or the ones with the closing link. Again what would you all suggest?

 

Thank you XKRChad
I like her too.

LOVE is in the Air........

 

Here are the codes as requested.
P0121
P0327
P0332
P0560
P1637
P0740
P1720
P0102
P0121
P1000
P1637

What do the tea leaves say?

I am in the process of diggin into the coil covers, coils and spark plugs in order to do the compression test. Also got a block and pressure tester for the coolant. I Will post results, even-though I am already seeing some troubling signs.
Holding on the teardown until test completed and permission granted.

 

My blown head gasket was obvious during the compression test. Not because of the numbers, in fact the bad cylinder had the highest result, but rather because water shot out of that cylinder during cranking.
The water was sealing the rings making the numbers about 25% higher than the rest.

 

The expansion tank looks the same as mine... on my 2004 XKR

 

NICE! Hope you don't have too much trouble due to the overheating.

 

There are many unrelated codes here, possibly due to a power issue or modules being unplugged and plugged back in live.

I would suggest make sure everything is assembled with the batttery charged and then clear the codes. Run the engine and see which ones come back.

 

I removed the intake, Maf and top of filter box. The intake is new no leaks, the gaskets are new also cleaned the MAf and the box.
Took battery to be tested and charged. It tested ok and is now back in the vehicle.
I will be away for two days and will get back to her on Sunday.
Will restart and take new codes. i have now my own code reader, with live data recording if needed. Let me know what trims I should read and post.

 

WhiteXkr,
I did get back to the car today and restarted her after reinstalling the coils and adding new plugs. NGK Iridium same as were there. You will see in the pictures why.
She runs very quiet now.

Codes are as follow:
P0332 knock sensor
P1637
P1720
The last two came back after erasing them once.

I found the battery flat again, I must have some parasitic drain or it is grounding out? Any obvious places to look?

The temperature starts to climb after a couple of minutes. I noticed that the fans do not come on even after the gage registers 3/4 of the way. When the A/C is turned on the fans do not start. I engaged the heater and the situation remained the same.

The upper radiator hose on the passenger side is very hot as is the short fat hose coming from the engine to the T-stat housing. The drivers side upper radiator hose is cold. Thermostat not opening?
thermostat replaced recently as pe PO. I think I will pull it and test it and or replace

Water Pump failure?

E-brake is frozen, it will not disengage no matter how hard I pull nor how hard I press the boton. I will take the rear wheels off and undo the shoe star through the rotors to see if it releases.
Is there any way to lubricate the cable or the springs?

 

Pull the thermostat and pump- sounds like you are very close to solving this mystery...

 

Here is what I found when I pulled the coil covers.





Condition of the coils. Rusted magnets and baked mud on boots.




The plug bore holes were filled with caked mud. Cleaned and blasted with shop air. The last two next to drivers side wee full of antifreeze. My bad I spilled it. So the covers are not water tight?



After some house cleanning.




Sanded clean the contacts for the coils to a shinny copper color.

 

Pulled the plugs after letting then rest on some PB blaster to loosen rust.
They came out no problem. They however are toast. all smelled of gasoline not oil. Dark tips. Replaced with same type NGK Iridium.





Old ones were gapped at .039, the new ones came with the same gap.

 

Performed Compression test after pulling the fuel pump relay in the trunk. Here are the results.

Asuming the cylinder closest to the passanger cabin is #1.

#1 155
#2 150
#3 155
#4 155
#5 150 closest to cabin driver side
#6 150
#7 140
#8 150

I am quite pleased, Not bad for a car that had not started for two years. What do you think?

 

After clearing the codes several times the MIL is still on.
Here is what I see.



On the right panel the Brake light is on due to the E-brake being frozen.

Also a red Battery light.

On the computer screen window , on the center gage, I see the following messages. Under the Yellow and red oval lights.

Low Brake Fluid (tank is full, Pulled and cleaned conector)
Engine Cooland Low ( I filled it three days ago. Do not know if it just
has bled itself and needs more)
Incorrect Part Fitted
All of theese were showing initially.
It appears the Restricted Performance warning is gone for now.


What to do?

 

DSNYDER562
Will do.
What waer pump should I use? Plastic of metal impellers?
What about the fans?
Thank you

 

DSNYDER562

Thank you, will do.
What water pump should I use, plastic or metal impellers?
What about the temp switch and the fans?
I am feeling good right now. Let pray for fair winds.

 

This isn't a flood victim, is it? Sandy?