For the P1637/ P1720 I would suggest cleaning the contacts at the wheel speed sensors, the TCM and the ABS module as a starting point.

I would start with a new thermostat, even new ones could be defective or installed backwards.

Rust on the coil frames is not a issue.

The coil covers should not leak unless the seals are compromised or high pressure water is used. On a supercharged car with hood vents this should be eventually resolved (though no emergency).

Check that your voltage is close to 14 at the battery with the engine running or you may have a bad alternator.

 

AVT007
I dont think it is a Sandy victim.
PO acquired it via court order in SE Georgia in 2011, clear title. It has been sitting in the salty air of the low country. Red Georgia mud. Somebody drove through a large puddle.
I have checked everywere on body and inside the car. No flood signs. Engine bay is another story. Something happend in the front. Yet there s not a scratch on the body.
Probably prior to PO. Who knows.
What matters is what can be. 70K mile xkr for a clunker price. I've seen wheels and tires spent on the Forum for more $$$$.
It just might be something I can afford.
And I am having fun. I hurt everywere though, I've re-discover some muscles I had forgotten about. They all hurt!!!
Suddenly I've realized I am no Spring Chicken. And its hot in So. Florida at this time.
Still I'm going for it. She look so SEXY!

 

WhiteXKR
I will check those. Will read up on Forum.
Still unsure as to what waterpump. Should I go with Coventry West's GMB or a known brand like Airtex?

 

If the fans never come on, either with the temperature or the a/c, then start looking at the fan circuit (relay, fuse, fan motor). I don't have a schematic for your model year, but can guarantee that the a/c triggers the fan based on a pressure sensor, and the coolant temp triggers the fan via the ECT sensor. Not likely that both have failed. I'm suspecting the fan motor itself since you mentioned previous front end damage.

What engine coolant temp does your scan tool show via the OBD port?

 

For the water pump, I would order one from one of the recommended folks on the forum- plastic or Metal has been debated, I use plastic.

Pull the fan plug and connect a tester to see if they are getting power when you click on the AC. (I am assuming the a/c compressor comes on)

 

I have been spending some quality time with the black cat lately, we are getting to know each other prety well. Following advice removed and cleaned the wheel sensors. The driver's side front was stuck and a mess. Sanded the metal contact points on the car and on the sensors. Switched them around.
On startup got chasis sensor code. On restart it dissapeared. ABS light still on. Noticed some chaffing on the wire loom on top of the wheel well pass side. Will cover with heat shrink.

Battery was replaced.
Pulled the Alternator and had it tested. Passed.
The connector would not come out and was chewed up a bit. I had to cut the wires to get the Alt out. Is there a source for these connectors? ref number?



Cleaned all the gunk on both plug and Alt.

Prior I made a block test. Repeated it twice with no change of color on the liquid. I did get a lot of bubbles comming from the expansion tank. Possible Air lock?
I rapped a couple of times on the T-stat housing. Both hoses are now hot.


Topped her with fluid, and took her for a spin with the OBD on.
ECT temp 180-190 degrees while moving. When stopped after 10 min temp started climbing to 244 degrees. I shut her down. A/C fans did not come on.


I am assuming the temp sensor is good as I saw the temp rise on the OBD scanner from start and on the gauge. It dipped when I turned on full heat.
So I went to the fans and took a look
Someone had been there before. Fan on left side not hooked on. Relay had on of the pins on the socket side off.
I reconnected all and retried to start them with the A/C on. No go.
I do not hear compressor engage. Removed socket from the pressure sensor on the A/C line. Tried grounding black and blue wire. No go.
Removed fans and the relay.
Tested the fans outside of car. Both work. Performed redneck engineering fix on one of the support arms with Plastic Epoxy and a metal splint two bolts.

How do I test this relay. It has eight pins. Have searched Forum and Google with out success?


Once tested I will reinstall, use the A/C gauges to check gas fill on system and will reground the pressure sensor.

Also poped the cover where the TCM and ECU are. It looks fine in there no signs of rust or water. Removed plug to TCM sprayed the contacts and reinstalled.


Further exploration in the trunk while changing batery and cleaning all contacts and grounds. There appears to be a module missing from the left side of the trunk wall next to the latch. Looking at the module diagram it shows the phone and CATS module being back there. The phone module is in the glove box disconected. What else hooks to this loom? There are two connectors on that wire. There is a module affixed to the right of the latch in the general area of the fuse box, hooked to loom comming from right side.

On another note, my pressure test of the cooling system failed misserably. On first try I clamped the hose that goes to the rear (driver) side of the expansion tank. Pressureized to 20lbs and whatched it slowly loose pressure. Attached a second clamp to same hose and I could not get any pressure to build up at all. I do not know if I am doing something wrong.

Currently the radiator hoses are pulled off, so is the T-stat( it looked new, bought a replacement) and I have removed the water pump. The housing that goes around the O-ring seemed to be cracked. The area around the pump and timing cover is full of gunk, I am assuming it was leaking. Waiting for new pump to arrive.

 

Thanks to our local Jag Agency, I got a copy of the warranty work performed on the car.
Here are the Claimed Field actions performed.
S474
S841B
S501B
S499B

Any idea what work was done.
Does anyone have access to Byers Imports in Columbus Ohio? I would love to see the repairs if any performed there.

 

Your ECT sensor seems to be working, and with those temps the PCM should be commanding that fan relay to come on (should start fans at 210-220F).

I wouldn't short the A/C pressure switch... it's actually a pressure transducer, so the PCM is looking for a set resistance, not a short/open. Shorting should peg it at max, however, but without knowing the sensor I would leave it alone for now.

Schematics are here: http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

Figure 04.3--Your 8-pin relay is actually 3 relays in one. The way this system is designed, when the PCM calls for low speed it runs the fans in series, so both run at a slow speed. When more cooling is required, those relays switch over to run the fans in parallel (both getting 12v) so they both are at high speed.

You had both fans out, and they both function when 12v are applied? That would rule them out. I would bet on that multi-relay being the clupret here, with 3 sets of contacts that can go bad.

The basics:
Check 30A fuse #12 in the engine compartment, this powers the fans.
Check for 12v at the NG color wire of the RH fan motor connector.
Check for 12v at the WU color wire (pin 8) of the relay with the ignition on, this provides power to the relay coils.
Check 30A fuse #14 in the engine compartment, powers LH fan in full speed operation. Not likely bad, and would not affect slow speed operation.
Check for good ground at B color wire of LH fan motor connector.

When the PCM commands slow speed fans, wire color GU (pin 9) to the relay should be pulled to ground by the PCM, activating the top relay only. This runs the fans in series. When the PCM commands high speed, wire WU (pin 7) is grounded by the PCM) and activates the bottom 2 relays only, giving both fans 12v and they run in high speed.

You could do a lot of troubleshooting on this, but bet either the top or center relay contacts are burned out. If all the fuses are good and the fans work, then I'd just pop in a new relay.

 

Mhamilton
Wow. It gets better and better. I really appreciate the wealth of information we can get on the Forum.
I have sourced a new relay and will test friday when my new water pump is installed. I did check all fuses and all are good.

The only thing left that could be wrong are the pressure switch or no charge on the A/C system. That will get checked on friday also.
I will report.

I was asked to look for the engine number. After removing all the gunk around the water pump found this;
990823xxxx




Thank you

 

The relay circuit provides 3 modes of Fan Control:

1) Off.

2) Low speed (Fans in Series, 6v on each fan), Not too loud.

3) High Speed (Fans in Parallel, 12v on each fan), VERY LOUD!

In the High Speed Mode, the Fans are drawing 4 times the Power as in Low Speed Mode.

 

Hopefully that relay will fix it. I'm thinking your a/c is a secondary issue to the fans. Get those working first then check the a/c system charge as you said.

Here's your a/c pressure switch:


It's not a pressure transducer as I though, but rather 3 binary switches. The top switch tells the climate module that there's a/c pressure, the bottom two tell the PCM feedback when the a/c pressure is over 170 PSI, and then when it's over 290 PSI.

 

12v at both locations. Installed new relay
Stupid question of the day. How to check for good ground at B on left fan plug? Resistance (ohms) on meter between plug and chassis?

 

Here is a picture of the wire loom laying in the trunk I referred to in post #46.
What attaches to it?

 

Attachment 52817

Attachment 52818



Decided to look under the valve cover on passenger side so as to decide on ordering a chain kit. I was pleasantly surprised by what I found. These look like third gen, correct? No need to replace?
There was a light coating of froth on the cover. Mechanic friend was not concerned by it. He says it is not unusual on a car that has sat to have condensation here. He suggests an oil change and flush with quick change afterwards. Run the car and observe for signs of any head gasket problem.
I'm not so sure.?

Ps. How to upload more than one picture from iPad.

 

 

Poking around the rear of the engine I noticed the scales around this pipe hose connection. Could this be the coolant leak I'm looking for?
Position behind and towards the passenger side of Throttlebody.

 

The 2000 MY had an optional cell phone module in the trunk.

 

Yes, that would do fine. Should be at most 1-2 ohms depending on your meter.

 

Checked Ok on the grounds.
Replaced water pump and T-stat. Re-installed fans.
Started vehicle, turned on A/C, no cold air, NO fan. Checked pressures with manifold gauges. No high or low pressure. Compressor clutch not comming on.
Drier is not bolted down, looks new. (recently replaced?) found bolt under airbox bracket. Sounds like it is out of gas.

Ran engine for 45 min, ECT temp 185-190 F. Max 208. Both fans turned on and stayed on. Shut car , fans stop. ECT temp after shutdown 178F.
No white smoke nor blue smoke out of tailpipes.
No coolant leaks.
Looks like we are making progress.
Added flush to cooling system
Added fluch to oil. Let sit overnight.
Will replace both tomorrow.
Cat purring gently.
Slight tapping of valves on right side.
ABS light still on, will clean sensors again, just reread threads and found out about the four holes and the paperclip clean. I saw no holes. Will check rear boots and wires. Also resistance at plug.
Amber engine light still on, non flashing.
Restricted performance still flashing.
Knock sensor codes on OBDII

 

Have you opened the ABS unit to check the solder joints?