Dsnyder, I have not taken the ABS module off the pump.
I will if nothing else solves the issue. I have read the two procedures for accesing the solder joints. Lets hope I dont have to go there. The lines and tie downs look undisturbed, so I think no one has been there. I will let you know what I find.

On another thought I did find a rather sorry looking engine mount,I've never dealt with this kind (hydraulic?) here is a picture. Also one that looks brand new down to the nut holding it from the bottom. Is this roached? Difficult to change out?

 

Glad to hear the fans are working. Yeah, if the a/c system is not charged the compressor will not activate and the fans will not click on until coolant temperature rises (no pressure signal from the high side switch to activate fans).

Wow... I'm fairly sure that mount is hosed!

Should look like this:

 

We continue to make good progress.

After the coolant and oil flush (new oil 15-40(dino) + Marvel oil) and refitting the belts, (what a Pain in@#, had to remove the right side radiator hose in order to move the tensioner for reinstallation of the supercharer belt).

Restarted the car and added freon to the A/C.
Compressor started and so did the right fan. We think there is a leak in the system. Will add some UV dye and leave that repair for later.

Checked the ABS connector pins. Made a rookie mistake by not taking a hardcopy of Gus' ABS Hard Fult Check list. I took ony the pin # info and missread the numbering. Printed a copy and now will recheck.
Loosened the connectors in engine bay over wheelwell and took a reading. Both front looms and sensors within spec. I did find that the wiring on the right hand side had been peeled exposing the wires. Fixed with electician tape.
ABS light still on but I now have a code C1165. Looks like the problem is on the rear right loom or sensor. I had suspected this, as the sensor I removed with some force from the front drivers side is now installed there.
I will recheck and replace as needed. Also check the rear loom boots.
I understand the rear looms ends below the rear seats?



I am also now able to turn off the Engine CEL.
The car runs for several cycles with no codes. On restart I comes back.
P0332 Knock sensor
P1000 check light ok.
Cleared and repeated several times.

I took it for a spin around the neighborhood and temp fluctuated between 190-220.
Low coolant sign comes on after a while. Have continued to purge and add fluid. No visible leaks. Could I have a bad /dirty sensor or stuck float?

Restricted performance still on. Chugs when hit 3K RPM. flashig screen.
I have read on the restricted performance. I am limited to replacing the Throttlebody?

What next?

 

That mount is toast. My drivers side mount was looking like that, and it came out in two parts. The mount had completely separated!

To replace, engine has to be lifted up a bit, with the air duct removed. Drivers side is worse, since you have to drop the steering gear as well. My mechanic charged me 2 hours for the pair.

 

If the CEL is flashing, the ECM thinks there is a continuous misfire, and will go int restricted performance. If its misfiring, you'll know it, the engine sounds horrible. If the knock sensor IS bad, iy it could be incapable of helping the ECM to adjust the timing, so check that sensor. Also, in real time, monitor the fuel trims, likely you have some air / vacuum leaks from a long slumber.

C1195 is the code that arises from the ABS internal grounding fault. Its time to pull it and rebuild by a third party, or try it yourself. Keep up the good work, i'm enjoying reading about your progress and the small successes you are achieving.

 

Waterboy
Thank you for your assistance, it is most welcome.
I may have mispoken about the CEL light.
What is coming up is a engine figure amber solid, not flashing. What flashes is the message "restricted performance" "no track/ASC" on the green center screen.

The reader will turn the light off. it wasn't able before. Te reader does not record any faults after this while looking at the live data. Only on restart does the light come back on and the code for the knock sensor code appears.

Initially I was getting both knock sensors as failing and now only one comes up. It may be toast.
How do you test the sensor? I imagine pulling its plug and testng for ???? (ohms/volts)? Where is the plug? The knock sensors are in the valley under the supercharger, I believe.

On the Chassis code what I am geting is C1165, not C1169, please correct me if I am wrong in suspecting the righ rear sensor or wiring as bad. No need to pull and repair until solved?

Here are the trim # of the code reader from the test run which I wrote down:
ETC 190 F
SHTF1 -0.8
LONGFT1 -8.6
SHRTF2 0.0 TO -0.8
LONGFT2 -10.2
MAP 13.6
RPM 655
SPRKADV 5 DEGREES
IAT 104
TP 3.1%
I did make a recording of the run. Please let me know if additional information is needed.

I was reading last night one of the TSB 303-47 for the AVJ26 engines and for restricted performance and it says that the LTFT1/2 trims were supposed to be close to -7 and was told to suspect a bad fuel filter and fuel pump if otherwise. Indicating that the engine is running lean and trying to compensate. I know XKR is a AVJ27. I will be changing fuel filter anyway.

TSB 303-49 says that the ECM should be reflashed. Should I contact JaguarUSA and inquire if this vehicle has been reflashed?

 

This afternoon was a dissaster.
After toping her with oil and adding some R134a with Dye and sealer, and idle for 15 minutes, the restricted performance and ligh turned off.
Took her aund the block to fuel her up believing more good gas would help stop the reocurence of the restriction when dissaster struck!

With code reader on watched the temp shoot up as I pulled into the gas station, temp gauge went up to max, red light on and full drop to no temp. Shut her down.
Massive coolant leak on lower left corner of radiator.
Let her cool down and felt the lower radiator hose nothing wrong there. Looks like blown radiator.

Codes came up on reader.

P0341
P0342

I do not think I am going to like this.

Lets hope I dont have to put her down.

 

I feel your pain. I have a new Nissen radiator on order now. Hopefully nothing got too hot and you shut her down in time.

 

Thank you Jag#4,

Where from the Nissen and how much?

 

RockAuto. Great place for parts. Quick and no hassles if you have problems. Without getting out of the Lazyboy, I think it was $308 plus shipping. Google "RockAuto coupon" and there are tons of 5% discount codes out there.

Good luck on the fix.

 

I just read your thread. Good luck with the repair.
Tried radiator.com and another auto site and got the same B.S about difficult model and leave your Ph#. etc etc. told them to take a hike.

I have done a lot of business with Rockauto.com. They are a class act.
Shipping cost from multiple wharehouses sometimes is their weak point. Customer service is great.

Tomorrow will tell how bad my situation is. Bummer.

 

Well it has been a couple of weeks since any serious wotk has been done while hunting down the correct radiator. Seems xkr versions are getting scarce. I will be cutting into my old one to compare ith the xk8 to see what if anything is different. Fittings should not be worth the extra $350 to $600 dollars. I am convinced an xk8 radiator with racor fittings will do the job.
I sprung for a new XKR rad but will report results.
Engine is comming out. I have tried for the last couple of weeks to instal JTIS on my Vista 32bit PC without succes. I get the main screen and a message that a data file on disk 2 has a wrong path. I have been driven to insanity with this.
So engine is comming out using redneck engineering.
I would appreciate any help here.

Also I purchased a fan shroud fron a xk8 to see if it would fit my broken and patched xkr fan assembly. It does. The difference is a hanger tab for the harness. Everything else is the same. It fits just fine.
Current plan is to pull engine from top with transmission attached.
Plan calls for separating exhaust at the cats.
Currently looking at the plastic Norma connector for the octopus hose and scratching my head as to how it comes off without breaking. What else needs to be loosened on this mess of hoses?

 

I am on board with the ridiculous cost of those two fittings. I will be very interested in the results if you decide to use the XK8 radiator with your own fittings. Based on stated specs and "eyeballing" the two side by side, I suspect it will work just fine. I could see no visible difference and the fitting adaptors fit on either radiator.

 

Hang in there. I have an XKR and love it, you will too once you iron out the kinks.

 

If the engine mount is leaking then it needs to be replaced. If you are planning to change the engine mount on the right it should straight forward, however, the drivers side (left) you will need to drop the steering rack and / or drop the sub frame.

 

Mike
If you have not thrown out your broken rad, I would like to prod into the plastic tank to compare with my busted one and see how the fitings differ.
Let me know.

 

Gus,
It is the right mount that needs to be replaced. It should be easier with the engine out.

 

Jefferey,
Thank you for the encouragement. I am a stuborn old goat; she will run again.

Frustrated with the inability to install JTIS. JEPC and other manuals have downloaded into my PC with Vista and my IPad with no problem. I just dont get what the problem is with the data file.

 

Replace the octopus hose- even if you are able to disconnect the norma connector the odds of it leaking when you put it back on are high. I recall there is a collar that you pull towards the front of the engine to remove it.

 

Well success at last!!!!!
One month six days and a couple of hours and JTIS for XK Range is up and running on my Vista Home Premium old laptop.
Jehaaaaaaaaa. 12.47 am