Well, after more than a week of pulling pushing and prodding, the engine and transmission are disconnected from the body and ready for pull out.

Big question is; Do I pull it out with the exhaust manifolds and cat converters, or should these also be removed prior to pulling engine?

JTIS has been of no help on this.


I'll give this black and blue body a rest while you all reply with your advise.

 

Same question goes for the steering rack. It seems to be in the way of the converter housing.

 

Unbolt cats from manifold and transmission brackets- I do not see a way to remove the engine with cats in situ. If you DO accomplish that, let me know- I would prefer to work on bolting the cats up with the engine out prior to installation.

 

I have one I am selling. It is beautiful. $16,000. It has 49,000 miles. Always garaged. Right now I'm frustrated with it. Just replaced the battery (today) and think their is a vacuum leak because I get the P0171 and P0174. Can't tell by how it drives though. I'm selling it because I have twins that just got their license and the insurance co. decided to ding me $2k/year just for this car. There should be a pic to see if I uploaded it right.

I am in Central Fl in the Cocoa Beach/Melbourne area.

 

Thanks.
I did a search on google in removing engine on XK-8 and it came up with a tsb and instructions.
You are right. It indicates Cats need to come off. Which I did end up taking off. Taking the screws off the shields was a bear. The flanged nuts on the Cats themselves also gave me a rough time. Ended rounding one up.
I am now qualified as a circus contortionist.

Last I discovered the XKR does not have lifting eyelets at the rear of the engine. There are two threades holes for M14 bolts with a fine thread. Not sure yet if 1 or 1.5 pitch. Found a bolt that fits in our junk drawer now looking to use as sample to buy another. None to be found in the regular places. So off to a bolt specialist today.
I will also be cheking a friends xk8 to see if he has them on his engine.
Lift-off posponed. Houston we have a problem!!!!!

 

Nice pictures Twin, sorry about the insurance.

Just wait until you see the shock youll get when looking up your Obamacare. Premiums not bad but $13000 deductible!!!! Are you kidding. It means you are really self insured.
Cheaper to pay the fine and buy catastrophic insurance from the swiss or lloyds.
Hell you can buy a Jaguar XKR Every year.l
Lets see, i like red, green ........

 

You have to buy the lifting eyes for the rear- I took the cam covers off and used bolts and the cherry picker chain. I am probably going to invest in some lifting eyes soon though, I would like to do the cam covers while the car is out.

 

Figures. Where and how much for the lifting eyes. So far I am striking out with the bolts.

 

Ok guys, I'm back after a slight detour. Went up to New England with the wife to pick up a new Cat. Red hot chili pepper. Drove it down enjoying the twisted roads in Appalachia.

 

Finally did find the bolts and proceeded to remove the engine yesterday.
It was not as difficult as I imagined.
Removed all of the front pulleys and belts as well as the font cover.
Removed the Cam covers as well.
Now comes the time for panic. Today I will remove the supercharger and intake.

The question now is, how to proceed next. Do I need the special Jaguar tools to remove the camshafts and tensioners?
I am reading JTIS and frankly I am confused.
Will wait for guidance.
The front looks brand new, there are marks on the crankshaft of recent work. I imagine for the chain and tensioner replacement.
From the looks of it it has not jumped time. I want to know if it is safe to rotate in order to line up the flats on the camshafts to make certain.

 

Additional pictures of camshafts and tensioners.

 

Don't really see the benefit of turning the engine since you are going to have to remove both heads anyway....

It shouldn't do any harm if you are just rotating by hand- only turn the engine (at any time, ever) in the normal direction of rotation when running.

 

Do I need to lock the cams while removing the tensioners and chains?
Are all cams the same?

 

I just unbolted the cams and the rest comes apart pretty easy after that- I guess it would be easier if you lined up the cam flats as that is where all of the valves are closed. (not much pressure forcing the cams up)

Make sure to loosen the cam caps slowly and evenly, and try to get the cam loose before unbolting them all the way- this will prevent cams from jumping up and or breaking.

 

Label the cams as to position.....they've worn into their bearings and would be best going back where they came from. Same goes for the bearing caps. If you're taking the heads off, the current timing does't matter because you'll be setting it when things are back together, so don't worry about the flats at this point. Those pictures, btw, look pretty good as far as the timing gear train goes.

 

Ok Guys, lets see if I got this correctly.
Rotate engine clockwise until flats are parallel to each other in order to release pressure on cam lobes.
Loosen chains by fiddling with the tensioners. Remove chains from sprockets. Leave sprockets on cams.
Loosen cam caps slowly and evenly.
Wiggle cams while still nesstled on head.
Remove cams.
Mark cams and caps to reinstall in same place.
Remove bolts on cylinder head.
Remove head.

Pray to the gods of Coventry!
Collect one ounce of Glenmorangie.

 

Yep, sounds about right.

 

When the Flats on the front end of the Cams are Parallel, the lobes are NOT at the "No Pressure" point. Some of the Valve Springs will be compressed at this point. The "No Pressure" point is at a different rotational position.

 

Thanks Paul, I stand corrected.

 

Progess report.
Supercharger and charge coolers came off without a hitch. Noticed the paint in the scrolls on the supercharger are loosing their protective paint. Also a good amount of oil present.
Is this normal?


Found several problems in the valley. Both knock sensors showed severe melting. also one of the camshaft position sensors cam out in pieces.
Hoses look to be in good shape. No leaking. They will be replaced anyway.





On to the chains.