Oil Cooler Line O Rings
#1
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Found a local indi mechanic that has a lot of Jag experience. He did my lower ball joints and changed my trans
fluid for me earlier this week. When I picked up the car he mentioned the oil cooler line O rings were leaking and
next time I brought him the car for something he recommended I have him change the O rings. There is a bit of oil always
spread around the front of the car so that makes sense.
I searched and found many threads on changing the oil cooler lines but did not find one for changing just the O rings.
There is a Service Bulletin (826? I think) that details replacing the oil cooler lines due to premature failure but my
car’s VIN is prior to those covered in the Service bulletin.
So my question after all that is, can I just change the O rings or should I bite the bullet and do all 4 lines even though my
car VIN is outside the Service Bulletin?
fluid for me earlier this week. When I picked up the car he mentioned the oil cooler line O rings were leaking and
next time I brought him the car for something he recommended I have him change the O rings. There is a bit of oil always
spread around the front of the car so that makes sense.
I searched and found many threads on changing the oil cooler lines but did not find one for changing just the O rings.
There is a Service Bulletin (826? I think) that details replacing the oil cooler lines due to premature failure but my
car’s VIN is prior to those covered in the Service bulletin.
So my question after all that is, can I just change the O rings or should I bite the bullet and do all 4 lines even though my
car VIN is outside the Service Bulletin?
#2
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Double check the rubber/aluminum interfaces. The rubber parts are crimped onto a fitting, and eventually leak over time. The general assumption is a lifetime of about 10 years. These crimps can fail outright, let the rubber hose completely loose, pour all engine oil on the road in seconds of course and leave you stranded. Maybe clean these sections really nicely, and see if they show a leak after a short while. To my knowledge, these lines push oil from the pump to the head, so they ALL see max oil pressure at all times. Best by far is to replace them all at once, unfortunately. Expect about $400 in parts, but it is an easy DIY job, don't even need to drain the oil. A failed o-ring would show a leak where 2 aluminum sections are joined together, or at the engine or cooler.
There has been talk of getting a hydraulic shop to re-build the old lines with more durable fittings, but these Jaguar lines are priced just low enough that it does not necessarily make financial sense, at least for a normal person without an in with the trade. Other option would be to buy a crimp tool with a proper dye (check irrigation garden hose crimp tools on ebay), but I am not sure the existing aluminum sections can actually be reused, they look one-time use.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
There has been talk of getting a hydraulic shop to re-build the old lines with more durable fittings, but these Jaguar lines are priced just low enough that it does not necessarily make financial sense, at least for a normal person without an in with the trade. Other option would be to buy a crimp tool with a proper dye (check irrigation garden hose crimp tools on ebay), but I am not sure the existing aluminum sections can actually be reused, they look one-time use.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#4
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I did the job with the car on ramps. Just undo the undertray all around the front, and it will expose the cooler lines going around the radiator. There is a x-brace holding the lines to the engine block that is sort of blind, but not that hard to deal with. Maybe 2 hours total, taking your time.
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04-27-2016 09:08 AM
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