Oil inside supercharger
#101
Not sure why you think you need to buy the engine management system, as mentioned when you order it with the Jaguar calibration nothing is more needed.
So if you wan to go for the 92 one, this is what you need to order:
So if you wan to go for the 92 one, this is what you need to order:
https://www.promracing.com/pro-m-92.html
(order with AJ27 4.0 Jaguar comment, no need to provide injector size etc. if you keep stock injectors (Only if you go to the more extreme setups with different superchargers you may want to use larger injectors).
https://www.promracing.com/6-pin-6-wire-pigtail-1.html
And then the thermistor as mentioned, that's it.
(order with AJ27 4.0 Jaguar comment, no need to provide injector size etc. if you keep stock injectors (Only if you go to the more extreme setups with different superchargers you may want to use larger injectors).
https://www.promracing.com/6-pin-6-wire-pigtail-1.html
And then the thermistor as mentioned, that's it.
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Higgins (12-20-2020)
#102
#103
If the car did not have the MAP sensor fitted, then I think the sensors used with boost gauges are typically 5V linear output 0-3 or 0-4 bar (mine is), so if you were thinking of adding a Boost gauge (or just buying the sensor) this is pretty simple to datalog. You could log before the SC to check intake pressure losses versus ambient, and then when finished a new intake, put it post SC and use as regular boost gauge. If you do have the MAP, then you could log directly over Canbus since you have Arduino setup.
I would agree with the view is that addressing the intake pressure drop (which seems to be a accepted issue) is probably the cheapest way to add a bit of horsepower, possibly even better if you can figure out a bigger throttle body solution as well as MAF.
Since to my understanding, probably wrong :-), that a positive displacement supercharger is a pressure multiplier, improved intake should show up as higher boost, if nothing else is changed. Losing 1 psi in the intake is magnified post SC. 12 psi boost on 15 psi intake falls to about 10.2 psi boost on 14 psi intake for constant multiplier. Spinning faster and sucking more air clearly puts more focus on the intake to avoid pressure loss at the intake of the SC. Assuming of course that the SC is still operating in efficient zone (not taking excessive engine power to operate) ,and engine is not retarding timing to avoid knock due to very hot mixture (mitigated with cold air intake, high octane fuel, intercooler efficiency, water/meth injection, etc. etc.).
That big aluminium front beam (at least in North America cars) is certainly not helping, depending on how much air you need. I recall someone (Brutal?) made a nice replacement with much less frontal area, at least at one time. I had to remove fog light to get enough air intake on my setup (92mm through fender, per Avos recommendation), but I am fighting low ambient air pressure (6200 ft home elevation) feeding twin screw with higher boost, so maybe not an issue on the near stock Eaton at sea level.
I would agree with the view is that addressing the intake pressure drop (which seems to be a accepted issue) is probably the cheapest way to add a bit of horsepower, possibly even better if you can figure out a bigger throttle body solution as well as MAF.
Since to my understanding, probably wrong :-), that a positive displacement supercharger is a pressure multiplier, improved intake should show up as higher boost, if nothing else is changed. Losing 1 psi in the intake is magnified post SC. 12 psi boost on 15 psi intake falls to about 10.2 psi boost on 14 psi intake for constant multiplier. Spinning faster and sucking more air clearly puts more focus on the intake to avoid pressure loss at the intake of the SC. Assuming of course that the SC is still operating in efficient zone (not taking excessive engine power to operate) ,and engine is not retarding timing to avoid knock due to very hot mixture (mitigated with cold air intake, high octane fuel, intercooler efficiency, water/meth injection, etc. etc.).
That big aluminium front beam (at least in North America cars) is certainly not helping, depending on how much air you need. I recall someone (Brutal?) made a nice replacement with much less frontal area, at least at one time. I had to remove fog light to get enough air intake on my setup (92mm through fender, per Avos recommendation), but I am fighting low ambient air pressure (6200 ft home elevation) feeding twin screw with higher boost, so maybe not an issue on the near stock Eaton at sea level.
#104
Many months have passed on and my Xkr never made it to the roads this season. Now its time to get my SC work done. Problems with the rear end suspension/drivetrain renovation has taken its toll on time available for other things. I took up the work with the SC today from where I left it in April.
Having problems to get the SC off the engine. Should have all bolts off but not sure. Removed the two vertical bolts beneath the snout and the four bolts between intake elbow an SC. The SC now moves a tiny bit when applying a bit of force, but wont come off. Is it possible to get the SC off this way? Or do the intake elbow has to come off together with the SC?
Having problems to get the SC off the engine. Should have all bolts off but not sure. Removed the two vertical bolts beneath the snout and the four bolts between intake elbow an SC. The SC now moves a tiny bit when applying a bit of force, but wont come off. Is it possible to get the SC off this way? Or do the intake elbow has to come off together with the SC?
#105
Hello Higgins, can you explain to me how to get the Elbow off? I am following the JTIS procedures and I have removed the 4 bolts you have pictured and the different hoses, electrical connectors. Elbow does't move and I feel like I might be missing something. Thank you, I am removing the supercharger to get to my fuel rail to replace the dampers.
#106
Have you read this entire thread? It is hefty by now, I know. In post no 43 there is a tip to remove the bolt that sits underneath the elbow. Have you got that removed? Even with all stuff off, the elbow was still sitting sticked to the SC. In the end I actually removed the SC and the elbow as one piece and splitted them apart after getting them separated from the engine
EDIT : Okay so I was missing two top bolts on the elbow that made removal easier had to maneuver the elbow out of the space. Now my new problem the Supercharger is loose and ready to come out but can't figure it out. Do I slide it all the way forward and tilt it up? or Do I slide it all the way back and tilt it up? I've tried both but need about another inch of clearance for it to clear, When I slide it all the way back the charge coolers are in the way and I can't tilt it at all, and when I slide it all the way forward the the charge cooler and the bottom bolt bracket of the supercharger are hitting each other. Please advise, wiring harness right above the snout is kind of in the way too
EDIT #2 : Okay figured it out, I always feel dumb after walking away in frustration and coming back to it a little later and figuring it out. So you have to slide the sup charger forward tilt the snout upwards as much as the wire harness allows and slide the supercharger a couple inches more forward and then tilt the snout down, then you can slide it back up and out.
Last edited by stran0020; 12-21-2020 at 04:13 PM.
#107
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