Oil pressure gauge
#1
#2
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Actual normal pressure varies from about 8 PSI to 70 PSI while driving. Our company makes a kit to remedy this if desired.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 08-26-2021 at 05:05 PM.
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Orthodixie (08-27-2021)
#3
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Yes, because it is not driver by a sensor, just by a low pressure switch. The computer sets it to center scale unless a very low pressure triggers the switch, and then it drops to zero. It is basically an idiot light with a needle.
Actual normal pressure varies from about 8 PSI to 70 PSI while driving. Our company makes a kit to remedy this if desired.
Actual normal pressure varies from about 8 PSI to 70 PSI while driving. Our company makes a kit to remedy this if desired.
#4
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Yes, because it is not driver by a sensor, just by a low pressure switch. The computer sets it to center scale unless a very low pressure triggers the switch, and then it drops to zero. It is basically an idiot light with a needle.
Actual normal pressure varies from about 8 PSI to 70 PSI while driving. Our company makes a kit to remedy this if desired.
Actual normal pressure varies from about 8 PSI to 70 PSI while driving. Our company makes a kit to remedy this if desired.
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Dr. D (08-26-2021)
#5
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#8
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Z
Last edited by zray; 08-27-2021 at 02:11 PM.
#9
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Very interesting. I was wondering how to turn on and off the cruise control. Spirited, it actually needs some of that I'm surprised how slow that car is. And the S is on. I'm use to my pontiac grand prix supercharged and Corvette. This Jaguar is like a old dog. Lol even my Cadillac is much more spirited.
#10
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Very interesting. I was wondering how to turn on and off the cruise control. Spirited, it actually needs some of that I'm surprised how slow that car is. And the S is on. I'm use to my pontiac grand prix supercharged and Corvette. This Jaguar is like a old dog. Lol even my Cadillac is much more spirited.
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zray (08-27-2021)
#11
#12
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I use android Torque Pro and an Ebay ELM327 WIFI OBDII block. Definitely a DIY that cost me less than $20 USD. total.
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zray (08-27-2021)
#13
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You don’t have to have the scan tool, although having one makes the job more precise.
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
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Dr. D (08-27-2021)
#15
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You don’t have to have the scan tool, although having one makes the job more precise.
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
The first time I adjusted mine, I did it without the scan tool. Although I thought that I had it tight enough, shortly after, I proved with a scan tool that I had only gotten it to 94%. This was years ago, but just having gotten my curosity up, I went out and rechecked it.
FWIW.... Still WOT is at 100% and 89% to the kickdown detent. I am going to add this check to my routine maintenance.
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zray (08-28-2021)
#16
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Hello Z:
The first time I adjusted mine, I did it without the scan tool. Although I thought that I had it tight enough, shortly after, I proved with a scan tool that I had only gotten it to 94%. This was years ago, but just having gotten my curosity up, I went out and rechecked it.
FWIW.... Still WOT is at 100% and 89% to the kickdown detent. I am going to add this check to my routine maintenance.
The first time I adjusted mine, I did it without the scan tool. Although I thought that I had it tight enough, shortly after, I proved with a scan tool that I had only gotten it to 94%. This was years ago, but just having gotten my curosity up, I went out and rechecked it.
FWIW.... Still WOT is at 100% and 89% to the kickdown detent. I am going to add this check to my routine maintenance.
As mentioned, Having the scanner will make the job more precise. I imagine that when you first did the adjustment to the resulting 94% level you did see some noticeable improvement. So there is some value to the un-aided adjustment until such time the scanner can be bought into the picture.
Z
#17
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As mentioned, Having the scanner will make the job more precise. I imagine that when you first did the adjustment to the resulting 94% level you did see some noticeable improvement. So there is some value to the un-aided adjustment until such time the scanner can be bought into the picture.
Z
Z
#18
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You don’t have to have the scan tool, although having one makes the job more precise.
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
just adjust the slack out of the throttle cable until the cable doesn’t make a distinctive snap sound when held open then released. The lack of the “snap” metal on metal sound means you’ve tightened it too much. Back it off a bit .
you'll see throttle response is greatly improved once the slack is out of the cable.
Z
Thank you.
#19
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i think the 2001 and 2002 years are the same arrangement. The plastic disc that the cable goes thru is the adjustable part. You just lift it up and rotate to change the cable slack.. often a small zip tie securing the adjuster disc to the bracket holding it.
Z
#20
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The plastic piece the cable goes through comes unscrewed with 2 screws. I unscrewed and rotated the whole holder and bracket to push the cable adjust sheath back toward the firewall. I was in a rush so I think I need a redo. The idol also seems to drop too low when releasing the gas. It almost stalls. Where is the adjustment for that?
thanks so much
Mark
thanks so much
Mark