This happened to a friend's car as well, is why I asked. He got one bunk tire, it took 3x as many weights to balance, and he still had issues. The manufacturer replaced the tire for free, but he had to deal with all the BS that you'll have to go through if this is the case.

 

Boat trailer bearings are sealed as well.

But more to the point. I think you guys are wasting a lot of time talking about tires and bearings when this is obviously a driveline issue. Bad u-joint or worn tailshaft bushing. Guaranteed.

 

'storage' for two years?

I have seen mud-dauber wasps build a fairly heavy set of 'tubes' on rotating parts in even ONE of their seasons. If/as/when on the ID, those don't get flung-off. Nor even always on the OD.

Have you checked prop shafts and such for that sort of thing?

 

Actually, you are quite wrong. Here is a photo of a bearing on my trailer. It works exactly the way that I said that it did. There is a rubber fitting that goes over this nipple. You take that fitting off and then use a small grease gun to squeeze new grease into it and it pushes out all of the old grease just the way that I said it does.

Now you may have one that is sealed, I am not going to tell you what kind of fitting you may have on your boat trailer, because I don't know, any more than you know what is on mine. I have an easy lube axle.

http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=782730

trailer bearings should be re packed every year if you tow any distances.Bering buddy's are not your buddy they only add grease to the front side of the outer bearing which does nothing for you. the inner bearing is the support bearing.The only real system that will service bearings while still on the trailer is the easy lube axle when you add grease it goes down a path in the center of the axle and adds grease from the inside out pushing out the old grease and replacing it with new.If your trailer just has bearing buddy's the axle assembly must be removed from the trailer and bearings re packed by hand

 

What I meant was that there is a seal on the backside to keep dust (and water) out, and keep the grease in. My trailer has oil bath bearings which are far superior IMO. 6 years and haven't had any milky oil yet. The bearing buddys are a gimmick which does absolutely no good. The problem is that the seal gets washed clean of lubrication every time you launch your boat, then burns up with subsequent driving. With the oil bath bearings the seal stays lubricated better.

Pumping too much grease in with a bearing buddy will also damage the seals.

Adding grease down the middle of the bearings makes no difference. It still does not pack your bearings properly. The grease still has nowhere to go. It can't go outboard through the dust cap and it can't go through the seal without damaging it.

The only way to keep greased bearings lubed and free of water is to disassemble them, repack, and new seals at least once a year.

 

They are NOT sealed bearings as they are in cars, that is the point that you clearly missed.

You also missed the point that I do not have bearing buddies.

Definition of "sealed bearing" One carrying a lifetime supply of lubricant so as to eliminate routine attention.

http://www.termwiki.com/EN:sealed_bearing

What exactly, do you think "sealed bearings" means?

I apologize to the forum for responding to posts which took this conversation sideways, but right is right and wrong is wrong.

To me a "sealed bearing" is simply that, a bearing that is SEALED, such as on cars.

Big Walleye, I am not trying to get in to an argument with you, but your post tried to make me out as a liar. SEALED bearings are SEALED, and the bearings on my trailer are NOT SEALED.

Now, if you can't understand that, then you are just trying to create an argument, which is not what we do on this forum.

Just drop it, and let it go and so will I.

 

I had no intention of starting an argument. I simply misunderstood your comment about trailer bearings not being sealed. I thought you meant that there was no seal on the back of the hub.

I did not intend to call you a liar and I apologize if it came across that way.

 

Another vote for U-joints/driveshaft. Especially for feeling it in the seat. Front wheel bearing would show up in the steering wheel.

 

Thanks for all the input.

Next actions:-

1/ Booked in for a re-check of tyres and wheels with Hunter Roadforce (next week)
2/ will be up on the ramp again to check U Joints / driveshaft.

I'll post an update when I have it.

rgds

 

I hope you find it. I know how you feel. It is miserable to drive a nice car and have an annoying vibration. Second worse is some sort of rattle that you can't find.

I had a vibration that took a little bit to find and it turned out to be what they called a "pothole ding" on the driver's side front wheel. As you'd expect, it came through the steering wheel. Yours that is coming mostly from the seat and the foot well does seem to indicate that it could be something other than the wheels and tires. Sometimes those vibrations come from the strangest areas.

 

Can I join the club? I have the same resonating vibration in the chassis of the car (not the steering wheel or brake pedal), which only happens between 70 and 80 MPH. Does not matter if in gear, accelerating, etc. Wheels balanced twice, four wheel alignment... no change.

Googling the issue, I found a BMW discussion where the owner replaced the front control arms (after many other tries), and the vibration went away. I hope it's not the same issue for Jag, as new control arms are big money!

 

Ranked order of possible culprits:
Tires
Bent wheels
Bushings
Ball joints
Tie Rods, inner and/or outer
Driveshaft issues
Subframe bushings
Engine Mounts