You guys think YOU would like to know the answer???!!!

I've give a 50 dollar bill to find out what the "real" cause of my electrical gremlin was.

It seems obvious to me that it was the same problem both times I had the top of the engine off - then put it back together. Probably something in the engine wiring harness - or the main harness connector behind the throttle body.

I've considered buying the engine harness from "Jeff in Tucson's" salvaged 2003 supercharged engine - just to have a "stand-by" harness.

I'm really leaning toward the problem having been in the big multi-pin connector though. The second time I had the severe problems, it was after cleaning that connector the she started and ran correctly.

You know, here's a laugh. The independent Jag service shop that (in desperation) I took it too last fall, Yes, the shop that couldn't figure it out either - promising to call me back as soon as they received the data update for their diagnostic program..... NEVER CALLED ME BACK !!!

This guy, who proclaimed he "knew more about the AJV8 engine than anyone else in Kansas City and said he was completely "committed" to helping me figure it out" apparently sensed the "Ghost in the machine" and never wanted that car to darken his garage again!

But, hey, to their credit, I was never charged a penny for their troubles - and they had the car for four days....

BY the way, the car has run great since early January after the second gremlin exorcised itself. In fact, the wife and I are planning on taking the car on a 1000 mile long weekend trip starting this Saturday. Is that presuming too much?

Because of a few unexpected financial trials that our family has been through this spring, I still haven't fully installed the water-injection system that I have planned. But I know it needs it. On 60 degree or above days, I hear a slight knocking when the boost starts to ramp up - at around 4-5 psi I get a clickety clickety click from under the hood for just a moment. Then as the engine continues up in rpm and boost - all seems well.... but alas, after the clickety sounds, she's not pulling as hard as she does in nice cool ambient temps (when I don't get the clickety sounds.)

My assumption is that the ECU is detecting knock and pulling the timing back - because although above ambient temps of 50-60 degrees she runs well, she feels a bit "soft." And I'd guess that a cooler charge will help things out.

Steve, I'm reading your knock sensor thread with interest. I did replace both sensors last summer - but I'm not certain I got them torqued to the proper spec. I just tightened them with a good grunt - not thinking that the spec might be very specific and the ECU may be super-sensitive to a precise torque.

Well, live and learn, right?

-Barry

Edit: I wrote the above while staying a little late at work.

I haven't driven my baby since Saturday - so when I got home from work, I took her out for a short "hoon."

It's 43 degrees this evening in Kansas City, so after getting her up to temp for about 10 minutes, I hit the twisty backroads just before sunset. I booted it hard coming out of a wide turn onto a long straight stretch of road....My Gawd! No Clickety Click and like Bammm!!! - I felt like I was hooked to an aircraft carrier's catapult! That car flat hauls *** my friends - I saw 15.4 PSI on the boost gauge in 3rd gear. 30 to 90mph happened in an instant. It's truly ALL about the air temp for this car. I've really got to get a higher output charge air cooler pump and the water/methanol injection working ASAP!

 

The grey connectors are for the pre cat O2 sensors, the Black connectors are for the post cat sensors. The connectors are keyed differently and cannot be mixed up

 

I'm not convinced about knock sensor torque being that important. They mustn't rattle and I'd guess they could be damaged by over enthusiasm. I'm sure one maxwdg-foot will be fine.
I don't think you should hear pinking though - the ECM should have detected it and done something before you can hear it.