P 1000 OBD code displayed for 3K+miles ?
#1
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My 99 XK8 was taken in for a smog check two years ago here in California. At the time the P 1000 code showed up and would not be passed at some smog stations.
Now two years later the code is still there and I will return to the same station in the hope they will pass it again. I do not want to go through the hassle every 2 years.
Is there a way to clear this code for good? 60K original miles.
Glenn
Now two years later the code is still there and I will return to the same station in the hope they will pass it again. I do not want to go through the hassle every 2 years.
Is there a way to clear this code for good? 60K original miles.
Glenn
#2
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They don't test for P1000 (like P1111 it's a pending code and they are ignored).
P1000 is a status that the OBD monitors have not set - and they do test for those!
The fix is to find what is preventing the monitors setting and then fix that.
Start by finding which monitors are unset. Also find out which (if any) your age car is allowed to have unset.
P1000 is a status that the OBD monitors have not set - and they do test for those!
The fix is to find what is preventing the monitors setting and then fix that.
Start by finding which monitors are unset. Also find out which (if any) your age car is allowed to have unset.
#3
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3K miles is a lot of miles but not unusual for the P1000 (OnBoard Monitoring tests not completed) to still persist depending on driving style and vehicle use. Before members start theorising, please confirm you have NOT cleared error codes in the intervening two years as this resets the P1000.
Although normal driving will eventually complete all OnBoard Monitoring tests and replace P1000 with P1111, a quicker and more efficient way is to do Drive Cycles (see attached PDF).
Graham
Although normal driving will eventually complete all OnBoard Monitoring tests and replace P1000 with P1111, a quicker and more efficient way is to do Drive Cycles (see attached PDF).
Graham
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Abby's Guy (03-29-2021)
#5
#7
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Yeah. If I had the inspection coming up - and this is me - I would clear everything, do a hard reset, and just start driving til I got to my test date. 3000 miles means that there is a glitch. Start from scratch and enjoy some driving keeping an eye on the obd monitors...
Also, I don't know how it is in Cali but here,,, shops are allowed a certain number of passes for cars that have a stubborn or outstanding 1000 code. Just stop into the shop (a few shops) and ask the folks there if they can deal? Some shops save the free passes provided by the state for buddies family and folks with $100.... Crazy worl...
Also, I don't know how it is in Cali but here,,, shops are allowed a certain number of passes for cars that have a stubborn or outstanding 1000 code. Just stop into the shop (a few shops) and ask the folks there if they can deal? Some shops save the free passes provided by the state for buddies family and folks with $100.... Crazy worl...
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#9
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My local smog shop did give it a pass yesterday. They thought they could hear a vacuum leak, hard to believe with what I thought was a squeaking belt?
Picked up a new belt and removed the old one to discover water pump and tensioner bearings bad. Maybe 5K miles on each. Ordered a new bearing to press into the tensioner pulley, and ordered a new water pump. While the coolant is drained will try to find out why the heater/defrost is not working. It looks like the heater pump has been replaced in the past.
Glenn
Picked up a new belt and removed the old one to discover water pump and tensioner bearings bad. Maybe 5K miles on each. Ordered a new bearing to press into the tensioner pulley, and ordered a new water pump. While the coolant is drained will try to find out why the heater/defrost is not working. It looks like the heater pump has been replaced in the past.
Glenn
#10
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My local smog shop did give it a pass yesterday. They thought they could hear a vacuum leak, hard to believe with what I thought was a squeaking belt?
Picked up a new belt and removed the old one to discover water pump and tensioner bearings bad. Maybe 5K miles on each. Ordered a new bearing to press into the tensioner pulley, and ordered a new water pump. While the coolant is drained will try to find out why the heater/defrost is not working. It looks like the heater pump has been replaced in the past.
Glenn
Picked up a new belt and removed the old one to discover water pump and tensioner bearings bad. Maybe 5K miles on each. Ordered a new bearing to press into the tensioner pulley, and ordered a new water pump. While the coolant is drained will try to find out why the heater/defrost is not working. It looks like the heater pump has been replaced in the past.
Glenn
Someone here might help. There is a process (I don't remember it) for a self test style diagnostic with the hvac system. It requires pushing buttons in a certain sequence and the hvac unit in the dash (might) tell you what's wrong. Sometimes, due to lack of use) servos (little large relay sized looking things with an arm in them) get hung up or freeze.
If, when you first put the key in the ignition, ya get a few beeps and an Err message on the HVAC unit before it goes quiet, the HVAC unit itself might be able to tell you what's going on. Messing around with that pump is no fun, but I found some tricks about getting to it when I swapped my motor over the summer. Then,,, there are many pumps to be had on FleeBay, push come to shove. New, like new new,,, cost way to much IMHO... But, I ain't made O money...
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Abby's Guy (03-29-2021)
#12
#13
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I just went in for CA smog. Tech got P1000 which makes sense since ECU (and probably battery) disconnect recently.
However he won't do the test until there's a history. I'm doing the duty cycle 5x before going back.
Seller passed smog every time for the past 8 years so that's a good sign.
CA smog results go to DMV electronically when the test is complete. Get a free pass?
However he won't do the test until there's a history. I'm doing the duty cycle 5x before going back.
Seller passed smog every time for the past 8 years so that's a good sign.
CA smog results go to DMV electronically when the test is complete. Get a free pass?
#14
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I just went in for CA smog. Tech got P1000 which makes sense since ECU (and probably battery) disconnect recently.
However he won't do the test until there's a history. I'm doing the duty cycle 5x before going back.
Seller passed smog every time for the past 8 years so that's a good sign.
CA smog results go to DMV electronically when the test is complete. Get a free pass?
However he won't do the test until there's a history. I'm doing the duty cycle 5x before going back.
Seller passed smog every time for the past 8 years so that's a good sign.
CA smog results go to DMV electronically when the test is complete. Get a free pass?
Forget the drive cycle madness. Just drive the thing. Then, if there are systems that don't reset, drive around in a Cali neighborhood and talk to the guys,,, explain your situation, 2hats going in and been going on and you'll figure out a way to get a sticker in that car. No doubt... Gotta get resourceful.
If you have an obd CLEAR the codes and start over. Clear the codes after having walked up to the car from dead cold. Start the car. Let it come up to full operating temp. 1/2 tank of gas. And then hit the road... Drive and drive. Come home, park it. Find an excuse to do it again the next day, and so on. If the systems don't set, go into a neighborhood with lots of independent garages and talk to some guys about what needs to happen to get the sticker.
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CA Jag (04-21-2021)
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