So the new-to-me 1999 Auction XK8 is in overall really good shape. All the bushings are good, tires are new, someone even put new tensioners in it but didn't note it in Carfax - the PO didn't know which is why I likely got it so cheap.

Definitely a rust free car, there's some surface rust on a couple nuts but that's legitimately it.

It's not able to run right now because I have the cam covers off to put new gaskets in - and I'm replacing the thermostat housing with an aluminum one.

But before I took it apart I checked and I have three codes:

P0102 - Mass or Volume AIr Flow Sensor A Circuit Low: I have some MAF cleaner shot that a few times and will give it another couple doses.

P0112 - Intake AIr Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 - I suspect that's going to be the same as above and maybe will clear up once I get it back in (the air filter is dirty, and the intake from the box to the body wasn't in place.

But I also have:

P0455 EVAP System Leak Detected (Large Leak)

Here's where I'm stuck. I got under the rear and checked the hoses people say leak. They are really clean and look relatively new(ish)

removed the plastic in the Driver's fender and checked there. Everything looks good (of course can't tell if the Purge valve is working) with the exception of the hose in the photos. It's clearly cracked.

But it vents to atmosphere so I doubt (at least my interpretation of common sense) it's triggering a large leak, but this is the only hose I could find cracked. (Also is that fuel filter thing a Jag part LOL)

So I'm stuck as to what it could be.

I guess it could be gas cap. Mine's Jaguar branded - doesn't click 2 or three times but I read some don't. It's not very "springy" though - the little plastic housing with the spring doesn't....spring.

New cap could really be the culprit? Or is it really this cracked atmosphere-vented hose?

 

Back in September 2020 my wife's 2006 XK8's Check Engine icon illuminated along with a P0447 OBDII code. I suspected a failed Canister Close Valve (CCV), but the issue turned out to be a broken ground wire (orange in color) about 8 inches up the wiring harness that attaches to the CCV. Soldering that wire back together fixed the issue. You may want to check your wiring. Perhaps you will get lucky....

 

Decades ago I checked and replaced dozens of CCVs.

Info for you.

 

Thanks for that. I'm unsure what the fix is though? Is it a new CCV? A new pipe?

i was able to get my CCV out - but of course broke the crossover plastic pipe that goes to the other one - yay for working on your back on the floor - so probably created yet another problem and have to source or plastic weld this back up.

But do I just order a new CCV? the TSP says "Place new vapor pipe/hose assembly to front." Is there a new version of the vapor pipe then?

 

I'm happy to see a pic of that filter thing. I've been very curious what it actually looked like. When I replaced my purge valve (the one under the left fender liner) the design had changed and, according to the Jag TSB, you had to run a hose up to that location and stick on that fuel filter thingy. The valve has one side that's open to atmosphere and I guess this was Jag's workaround to filter the outside air. Maybe they figured that atmospheric schmutz was a culprit in the valves sticking open.

I've been chasing EVAP issues for some time now, and I *think* I have them fixed but won't know for another couple of tanks of gas. In any case, that hose is NOT the cause of a large leak. A large leak is most likely the filler cap. Start there.

You've replaced the Canister Close Valve. Mine was failing and throwing a P0447 code, IIRC. It's kind of a b*tch to get out neatly. I cracked the canister. If you've broken the crossover hose you will also get a Large Leak error. My replacement looked the same as the one that came out, and the existing hoses fit correctly with no modification.

The system can be smoke tested but you may need a better scan tool, and a good smoke machine. The scan tool puts the valve in the closed position, and then you inject low pressure smoke into the system via an adapter on the fuel filler neck. Mine indicated the crack in the canister and a poorly fitting o-ring on the other canister. The entire thing is a tribute to Rube Goldberg.

Good luck!

 

So does anyone know how to disconnect this thing? i've uploaded photos of the one side I broke (the broken piece is still in the canister) and a photo of what shows to be the replacement part.

But I can't figure out how to disconnect it. It's not a squeeze, the barbs are inside a solid piece of plastic (the canister).

Note - the broken piece at the canister is what I can't get out. It just twists and looking at the replacement piece it should have four barbs...but how do you compress those barbs?

Any help appreciated!

 

Yes, the ends do have the barbs and the o-ring. They will come out but it takes some pulling and twisting and maybe some rocking. As you've already damaged the hose, just take a plastic trim tool, or something, and pry between the fitting and the canister housing, assuming you can't get a decent grip on that elbow portion. Another brilliant Ford design. Or maybe it's Jag's fault. I know they're Ford canisters.

Putting them in requires three hands, too. You have to squeeze one pair of barbs into the canister opening, then, while maintaining downwards pressure, squeeze the other pair, and once they're all inside the perimeter of the canister opening they'll slide right in with a satisfying click.

 

Thanks!

trim tool worked! And it helped me push that pretty rigid plastic pipe through and out (after figuring out how to disconnect those weird clips holding it up in place) without cutting it - even though it's trash I wanted to see how to do it. Hopefully the replacement is easier as it looks bendy.

The second canister where that tube goes in..the tube has a missing barb but I'll lube the O-ring and wrap it up with a strip of gorilla tape (probably do all the connectors that way anyway) when I reinstall.