The battery is definitely well charged. I charge it right before I started putting everything back in, and it was at 12.8. I put the trickle charger on for a day after the big "fail" and when I finally took it off it was reading 13.3. So, I don't think the battery is my problem. I have a feeling that I need to do a few drive cycles to reset the old DTC and ABS lights.

 

Deeper than this. Though they are "fixed", you don't have a clear way to check this without something robustly working since something is clearly not.

And, yes, your Autel scanner will read codes and put out PIDs to check various things, but I don't know if it is set up to see if your ABS (and ECM) is giving the right Jag XK8 ABS handshake code, for example. The wrong code 'works' (i.e. Madhatter's problem), but it doesn't work with the car. The scanner also has no particular way to assess if the ABS and ECM can messages are all present and sending at the proper intervals, except very indirectly. The CAN reader I'm talking about reads and records the detailed CAN instructions for the whole network.

 

It sounds like you have a whole lot of "believed working" parts and one of them is likely not.

First thing I would probably do is go buy a new battery, stick it in the car, charge it, and go drive for a little bit and do a bit of praying.
If your prayers have not been answered, return the battery to the shop you bought it from.

If the hail mary on the battery returned no luck, the best next bet might be to buy a cheap can bus analyzer like i did earlier in the thread, and follow along with the instructions crbass gave me to try and see if you are having the same issue that I had.

 

The Autel scanner has instruction for ABS/SRS testing. I'm pretty sure I went through that series, but can't remember the exact results, except no codes showed up. I can run it through again, though. It makes me input my exact vehicle and then choose to analyze the ABS system. I'll do it again and make notes.

I'm sure my 15 month old battery is in fine condition. It reads at least 12.3-6 all the time, and I try to keep it up with a trickle charger. That said, it sure wouldn't seem like two moderate periods with engine off and lights on, and with 20 minutes of driving in between, should allow the battery to get low enough to set all this off.

I'd say "tested" is a more accurate description than "believed working".

GINO at MRP says I can send the ABS module back to him for a retest in his '99 XK8. No charge, but I pay shipping 2X.

Just tested at 12.75.

Ken

 

Groan! I finally got the Jag back on the road and am trying to put some miles on it so things will "reset".

But In have a problem and a question: Since the ODOMETER and SPEEDOMETER do not register any speed or mileage change, is driving the car going to do anything? I am pretty sure if I was trying to put miles on to get the EMISSIONS system reset for the test/tag, and the ODO didn't register any change in mileage, it probably would not be reset for SMOG testing. But I could be wrong.

SO....SHOULD I KEEP DRIVING THE CAR AND HOPE SOME OR ALL OF THESE NON-COMMUNICATING MODULES WILL GET BACK TO "NORMAL"?

HELP!

KEN

 

I drove my car just fine without the Speedo and Odometer for a while.

But the moment the speedo would go, the P1637 error code would get emitted.
That was the canary indicator for me that the error code was happening.

The emissions guy is going to want both the error codes gone, and also a functioning speedometer if he has to put the car on the dyno and hold it at a steady mph.
They had to do that for my car since it is a 97, I don't remember every year of car they do it for.

 

Do you have any idea why the speedo/odo is "harnessed" with the ABS module? Or, why a faulting ABS module throws so many other unrelated circuits/components into a frenzy?

I'll try driving the car as much as I can, but I wonder if the ABS module repair has gone bad???

Ken

 

https://www.thejagwrangler.com/uploa...ain_serial.pdf

 

Or, I can probably answer your question directly if you are not the kind of person to think reading white papers is fun.

The ABS module is primarily designed to read all four of the wheel speed sensors and use that information to detect tires locking under braking.
It also just so happens that other core vehicle functions are going to be derived from the data collected by the wheel speed sensors, vehicle speed, rpm of wheels, which is likely being compared against the rpm of the camshaft and crankshafts for sanity checking.
If the ABS module is not able to communicate on the network, either because the ABS module is not functioning properly, or the ABS module is running the wrong firmware and therefore speaking the wrong language so to say, then the rest of the car functionally pretends that the ABS module does not exist and continues to operate to the best of its ability without the wheel speed data. This will almost guarantee that some normal expected features are going to be disabled or crippled while the car is waiting for the ABS module to start working properly again.

 

OK. At this point I think I should putting more miles on the car (whether t registers on the, ODO or not) before I call the Module Repair Pro guy again. Or, pull the ABS again. OR...take it to the "thousand dollar $hop" for a wallet-busting attempt to repair it.

Ken

 

Thank you. I understand the system better now.

But I have a dumb question right now: I removed the batteries from the key FOB because it wasn't doing anything. I thought I had correct new batteries....but I can'rt be sure. I don't see any reference to the batteries. So....WHAT ARE THE CORRECT BATTERIES FOR THESE OLD FOBS?

Ken

 

Just a big FYI about these remote fobs: if the Jag one works like all the other vehicles I have, if you let them sit or don't use the transmitter for (some predetermined time) "awhile', the fob loses its connection memory. After you start or drive the car a few times the fob will start working again. Who would have known?

But back my ongoing Christmas tree instrument cluster. As you know, the ABS module AND the main ECU have been "rebuilt". The refreshed ABS mod worked great for a month ir so, then all the lights came back. After having the ECU refreshed, the lights/codes will not go off. I have driven the car twice for about 50 miles each time. Since neither the ODO or the SPEEDO work I have no way to tell how far or how fast. And, I do not know whether or not driving does anything to the modules because no mileage is registered with the missing signal.

Maybe one of you can answer that for me. Do I keep driving it,or do I have t pull the ABS module again and send it back for a checkup/redo?


Tired of this....next move is to sell the car.

Ken

 

CR; You were kind enough to lend me your scanner (CAN scanner?) in May. I apologize profusely that I have not sent it back to you yet.
My wife was recovering from a bout of chicken pox and two rounds of Covid when they discovered cancer in her right eye. They removed her eye about 3-4 weeks ago and we thought that problem was done, but last week her replaced kidney started to fail. She is in the Stanford U. hospital getting treatment and needs repeat reconstructive surgery on her eye "patch" (can't remember what that's called). She's doing as well as can be expected for now.

Anyway, I have only been able to get the car on the road twice...amounting to less than 100 miles total I think. I don't know if the driving is doing any good, but I'm taking my chances with an expired license tag (still cannot pass smog with the CEL on). I'm hoping I can get my son to go with me and we can try the scanner in the next 2 days while my wife is gone, but I can't even remember what I'm supposed to do or look for.

I appreciate your patience....will definitely need a tutorial.

Ken Koester

 

Ken,

I'm so very sorry to hear about your wife's daunting medical issues. Prayers for the best possible outcome.

Blessings,

Don

 

Thank you, Don.

She is now on full time outside dialysis. She gets picked up at 4AM every other day and the dialysis takes about 4 hours. We are discovering new things about the process every week....like when they took too much blood out and her blood pressure dropped so low we had to call an ambulance to get her into the local hospital. It doesn't take much to kick her system out of "sync". But, she is tough as nails and never complains even though she has lost all mobility. The good news is that I get to sleep next to her every night because our recliners sit together in our family room. We don't even go upstairs to the Mbdrm anymore. It's all good for now.

 

I want to (have to) try something new. I bought a correct part number module off eBay...already "rebuilt" and still attached to the pump. The seal tag is on the module so it hasn't been messed with. The Jag was hit from behind and they parted it out, and they just removed the whole assembly.

Looking at the pump/module assembly it looks like it must be much easier to R&R the whole thing. That begs the question of why have we been bruising our knuckles taking the module off the pump?

I don't think I can get back in there and do the R&R because of several physical issues, so I am thinking of handing the car and parts off to the allegedly-expert Jag shop up the street. I'm gonna guess it would take a competent tech about an hour to just unbolt the unit and hook up the "new" one. So, a couple hundred bucks and maybe I could have the car back on the road WITHOUT ALL THE LIGHTS.

What do you......ALL OF YOU......think about this method?

Ken

 

The largest reason that people leave the pump lines alone and just replace the module is so that you don't accidentally get any air in the lines and have to try and bleed air out of the brake system.

What do I think about trying another presumed working ABS module?
I am not averse to throwing new parts on the car and hoping for the best, that is how most people solve problems like this.
I hope that this fixes the problem for you, although I still have the same nagging feeling about the battery like I did before.
I can't get a battery to last longer than 3-4 months in my car before it starts throwing codes and lights.

 

Thanks.

I get the brake fluid issue. The last time I did the R&R on the module I lost so little fluid I didn't need to do anything with the lines. This unit I just got has the lines cut just above the compression nuts, so I guess it will have to be dumped out and refilled....maybe just at the unit I hope.

The battery situation seems to be a plague on all of us. You'd think Jaguar could design a system that doesn't have a constant draw on the battery. I start the car every week or so now, and it always fires right up....but I hear that's not enough. Maybe Jag never got over their "Lucifer Lucas" days.

Am I correct, though, that all it takes for me at this point is to remove the 3 or 4 bolts to the pump/module assembly to do the R&R (lines not being an issue until it's all bolted back in)?

 

Ken,

Thank you for the update. I'm sure you are both exhausted. You're a good husband! More prayers coming your way.

Blessings,

Don

 

Hi Ken,

If you disconnect the brake lines from the old ABS modulator and install the salvaged one, you will have to bleed the air from the entire brake system at all four brake calipers. I can't recall if the X100 supports bleeding the ABS module, but if so, bi-directional scan tools can force the pump to run and the valves to open to bleed air through the module.

You can avoid this by just replacing the ABS electronic module by separating it from the valve body without disconnecting the pipes. But check to see if the plastic case of the salvaged module has been sawn open and re-glued. If not, it probably has not been "rebuilt."

Cheers,

Don