A passage through the bulkhead?
#1
#2
Through the small rubber accordion attached to the bulkhead in the compartment with the brake master cylinder...you will need to cut a small hole in this rubber boot to pass the wire through, and perhaps attach your small wire to something stiffer for the pass-through process. It will take fiddling and some fairly uncomfortable moments with your head in the driver's footwell, but it can be done.
For photos, go to TheJagWrangler - Home - About Us, find the PDF instructions for installation of the RealGauge Oil Pressure Option. Scroll through the PDF and you will eventually see specific instructions and photos on passing a wire through the bulkhead at the point I'm talking about.
And hey...while you're there...buy the RealGauge! It saved my butt recently.
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For photos, go to TheJagWrangler - Home - About Us, find the PDF instructions for installation of the RealGauge Oil Pressure Option. Scroll through the PDF and you will eventually see specific instructions and photos on passing a wire through the bulkhead at the point I'm talking about.
And hey...while you're there...buy the RealGauge! It saved my butt recently.
.
The following users liked this post:
worrasf (09-13-2014)
#3
Yes, I'm in comms with Steve (JagWrangler) about his RealGuage having already installed a 3-guage conversion. Truth be told I am nervous about having to open up the instrument cluster etc and I don't have a way of accessing the oil pressure sender at home I'd have to take it to the mechanic
#4
Curious...what is the sensor wire you are routing?
In the RealGauge installation, the instrument cluster work seems a bit daunting when looking over the instructions...but once you have the pieces in front of you, it's really fairly simple and not as complicated as it first appeared. Steve is also very helpful (and available) if any questions pop up.
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In the RealGauge installation, the instrument cluster work seems a bit daunting when looking over the instructions...but once you have the pieces in front of you, it's really fairly simple and not as complicated as it first appeared. Steve is also very helpful (and available) if any questions pop up.
.
#5
I had some difficulty running the wire through when installing my RealGauge. Got really frustrated. I finally stopped trying to force it and did two things that made it work.
1. I set up a really bright light and lit up the footwell near the firewall. Then I just went towards the light while in the engine bay to run the wire.
2. Ran a somewhat stiff, but flexible starter wire through first and used it to pull the electrical wire in once I had established the route it had to take.
In my case, the issue was the insulation material on the inside of the footwell had shifted over the years and was blocking the entrance hole. If you look up and over to the side of the footwell you can see where the Jag wires (intentional pun) come in thru the firewall. That's your guide.
The instrument panel is a piece of cake. Took about 15-20 minutes start to finish, including removal and replacement. Just be careful of the plastic bits. They get brittle with age.
You can do this. Just requires a little patience.
1. I set up a really bright light and lit up the footwell near the firewall. Then I just went towards the light while in the engine bay to run the wire.
2. Ran a somewhat stiff, but flexible starter wire through first and used it to pull the electrical wire in once I had established the route it had to take.
In my case, the issue was the insulation material on the inside of the footwell had shifted over the years and was blocking the entrance hole. If you look up and over to the side of the footwell you can see where the Jag wires (intentional pun) come in thru the firewall. That's your guide.
The instrument panel is a piece of cake. Took about 15-20 minutes start to finish, including removal and replacement. Just be careful of the plastic bits. They get brittle with age.
You can do this. Just requires a little patience.
The following users liked this post:
worrasf (09-13-2014)
#6
It's an engine temperature sensor (ENGINE WATCHDOG TM1, TEMPERATURE SENSOR/GAUGE, LOW COOLANT ALARM, TEMP RECORDER | eBay)
I'm planning to hardwire the DC input and mount the display horizontal in the little coin cubby in front of the gear shift.
+1 for Steve's after sales support - I had some issues with the 3-guage which essentially came down to all 4 cluster bulbs blowing at the same time! He was very patient and helpful.
Looking at the PDF on his website it looks like on my RHD 2001 XKR I will need to remove the wipers and windscreen tray to get access to the rubber boot and electrical harness which is the way into the cabin - typical - nothing is ever straightforward.
Steve
I'm planning to hardwire the DC input and mount the display horizontal in the little coin cubby in front of the gear shift.
+1 for Steve's after sales support - I had some issues with the 3-guage which essentially came down to all 4 cluster bulbs blowing at the same time! He was very patient and helpful.
Looking at the PDF on his website it looks like on my RHD 2001 XKR I will need to remove the wipers and windscreen tray to get access to the rubber boot and electrical harness which is the way into the cabin - typical - nothing is ever straightforward.
Steve
#7
Possibly...but I sure didn't have to remove those bits on my LHD car. Isn't your rubber boot in the brake master cylinder compartment?
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#8
" Remove the windshield wipers and plastic cowl under the windshield. Follow the Jaguar instructions posted here: http://www.thejagwrangler.com/upload...rm_removal.pdf and http://www.thejagwrangler.com/upload...wl_removal.pdf
37. Pry loose the accordion rubber boot near the fender on the bottom of the ECM compartment
So I'm presuming this means it will take me into the passenger side footwell.
Looks like the brake master cylinder and ECM are on different sides on the LHD & RHD models
Anyway, lots of time to figure it out as the car comes off the road for it's 6-month winter layup at the end of the month
Last edited by worrasf; 09-13-2014 at 09:55 AM.
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