Passenger door thinks its open
#1
Passenger door thinks its open
The passenger door is showing up as open even when it is closed. I can get the car to believe the door is closed for a few minutes. Then it thinks the door is open again and it is activating the alarm, all interior lights are on.
I overnight disconnected the battery so I could get some sleep.
Thoughts?
I overnight disconnected the battery so I could get some sleep.
Thoughts?
#2
#3
Glandaniel, what year is your car? I ask because ive found that micro switches control different things in different years. For my 1998:
bad door switch= red alert on dashboard display.
window keeps dropping each time handle is used.
puddle light lights
alarm will not arm.
that's all I can recall. Think it is the puddle lights that are different in later years.
guess I'm thinking that there will be a hard set of features that will think the door is open, that set can help you confirm the root cause.
anything I missed?(anyone?)
hope this helps you narrow it down. Last I looked, Digi Key sold the switches.
john
bad door switch= red alert on dashboard display.
window keeps dropping each time handle is used.
puddle light lights
alarm will not arm.
that's all I can recall. Think it is the puddle lights that are different in later years.
guess I'm thinking that there will be a hard set of features that will think the door is open, that set can help you confirm the root cause.
anything I missed?(anyone?)
hope this helps you narrow it down. Last I looked, Digi Key sold the switches.
john
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giandanielxk8 (11-04-2018)
#5
#6
Found it, $14 at Mouser electronics. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oswitch-52579/
part # in the thread.
John
part # in the thread.
John
The following users liked this post:
giandanielxk8 (11-04-2018)
#7
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giandanielxk8 (11-04-2018)
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#8
Found it, $14 at Mouser electronics. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oswitch-52579/
part # in the thread.
John
part # in the thread.
John
Are you referring to D2SW-3L2MS from Mouser? If so, that's perfect and I'll buy 2 to have a spare for when the driver's side fails. However, before I order, I will take Gus's advice and check to see if WD-40 solves my problem.
I checked the word document attached to that thread and they used, D2SW-3L3MS however that one required bending the lever arm, whereas D2SW-3L2MS did not. So, if anything, I should buy the latter rather than the former?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 11-04-2018 at 12:33 PM.
#9
#10
Do I just spray the outside door latch area, or do I remove the door card and spray in there as well?
Addendum: I tried the WD-40 spray from the outside of the door latch and that worked for all of two minutes. For $6, I would rather just buy a new switch. As soon as you can confirm the microswitch part number from Omron I will be ordering it from them.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 11-04-2018 at 12:58 PM.
#11
#12
Spraying the door latch on my wife's 2006 XK8 resolved the intermittent issue of her drivers door latch sometimes refusing to open from the inside. For the time being, at least. I ordered a D2SW-3L3MS microswitch back in August so if/when the issue returns, Wayne (cjd777) and I will replace that drivers door microswitch and hope that it resolves the issue....
#13
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giandanielxk8 (11-05-2018)
#14
Door Micro switch.
I just did this job the past weekend, using the 3L3MS switch, I am in Canada so went to a local Omron dealer. Got the part delivered overnight at a cost of $32.00 Canadian. I would suggest putting in just a hair more of a bend in the new switch contactor as I made mine the first time to match the old switch. I had to remove it all a second time to put in a little more bend. I have checked the old switch for continuity and cannot make it fail. I expect that the failure mode in mine was the contactor bend relaxing and not actually closing the switch. I checked it out before putting the latch back in the door the second time by hooking up the wiring, connecting the battery and then placing the latch over the lock post to make sure it was working. All is good now.
#15
Found it, $14 at Mouser electronics. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oswitch-52579/
part # in the thread.
John
part # in the thread.
John
#16
The microswitch finally arrived, I got the door latch out and lost no blood. Here's where I am lost, the word doc indicates that I should splice in the new switch using the common and normally closed wires. Does that mean that I pair Black with Black and Red with Green?
Lost no blood - a Jaguar door space is enormous compared to your working environment!
Graham
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giandanielxk8 (11-12-2018)
#17
Hahaha! That is true, and with the Jag, I can always disconnect the battery to prevent having my hand chopped off. To prevent being bitten, my only solution with a patient is sedation.
I paired the black wires together, and the red with the green, then I soldered them, put everything back together and tried it out. Problem solved. Unlike most who have said that their problem resolved itself as they were working on the door latch, that did not happen in my case. However, a new microswitch was the ticket.
PD. I used the 3L2MS as opposed to the 3L3MS that most everyone else has used. It, and the factory microswitch are nearly identical. The differences lie in both the wiring, and that where the factory microswitch has a lever arm, the 3L2MS has a roller at the end of the lever arm. As a result, the angulation of the 3L2MS is only about 0.3 millimeters off from the factory unit. I decided to leave it as is and not bend it.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 11-12-2018 at 04:59 PM.
#18
#19
Are you referring to D2SW-3L2MS from Mouser? If so, that's perfect and I'll buy 2 to have a spare for when the driver's side fails. However, before I order, I will take Gus's advice and check to see if WD-40 solves my problem.
I checked the word document attached to that thread and they used, D2SW-3L3MS however that one required bending the lever arm, whereas D2SW-3L2MS did not. So, if anything, I should buy the latter rather than the former?
I checked the word document attached to that thread and they used, D2SW-3L3MS however that one required bending the lever arm, whereas D2SW-3L2MS did not. So, if anything, I should buy the latter rather than the former?
The lever arm only needs bending slightly as you will see when you match it up to the original...and the middle blue wire is redundant...so it can be cut back and taped off.
They have been working perfectly. And I agree that you should buy two as the part is quite cheap...but the rather high minimum delivery charge would be the same for one or two items, thus saving money in the long run...as I found out to my own cost!
#20
The microswitch finally arrived, I got the door latch out and lost no blood. Here's where I am lost, the word doc indicates that I should splice in the new switch using the common and normally closed wires. Does that mean that I pair Black with Black and Red with Green?
Thanks
-Greg