Permanent manual conversion for convertible top
#21
03-11-2017, 05:45 PM
I don't mind at all. One thing I forgot to mention was that the hole plastic trim ring I purchase was slightly undersized. I drilled it slightly larger to fit the diameter of the allen segment. Drilling is delicate work on this small piece and the first attempt didn't go well. Since they are only $1 or so, I suggest picking up a few extra.
#22
03-28-2017, 04:27 PM
My experience with my semi-manual top latch conversion.
Just a quick statement or two about my experience with my semi-manual top latch conversion.
First , please don't think I advocate poor maintenance. However, I do advocate non-safety related options that lower the cost of ownership. Keeping costs down simply keeps more XKR/XK8's on the road and these cars are too beautiful to let go.
"Semi-manual " is probably a more accurate description of what Dennis 07 is referring to here: XK8 Convertible Top, Manual Latch Conversion . Read carefully as he describes the opening /closing sequence well.
What I have done as it relates to the top is:
1. I removedthe top latch from hydraulic circuit. and
2. I lowered the pressure available to the remaining hydraulic rams so as to still allow mechanical raising/lowering without subjecting the hoses and ram o-rings to the significant pressure build up ofthe latching cycle. Also note that by using the pump to raise and lower the top I still gently exercise the motor and seals.
In many convertibles (triumph, MG, Mustang etc) the forward latch must be done manually. I placed a short Allen wrench stub in the hole on the header above the windshield. This keeps me from having to fish the factory Allen wrench through the hole each time. Using an 8mm wrench in my glove box, I can quite literally unlatch the top faster than I could the two latches on a Ford Mustang.
As for lowering system pressure, I suggest turning petcock (T-handle) on the side of the pump ever so slightly open. How much? Open just enough that if you stop holding the button mid-way up, the top will slowly lower back down due to gravity. Open the valve too much and you end up running the pump longer than necessary. Use your best judgment.. What you are doing by turning the petcock is allowing high pressure to bleed off. The latch sequence can exceed 1600pounds of pressure while only a couple hundred pounds are needed to raise the top. By removing the top latch hoses and opening the petcock slightly the remaining system should last a very long time.
My sequence is this:
TO OPEN - Key on, car in PARK, open latch with wrench (100 degree rotation clockwise), rear windows lower automatically, push top down button only until top is down, rotate wrench counter clockwise to stow the latch.
TO CLOSE - Key on, car in PARK, open latch fully, push topUP button, stop pushing once top is up and entering latch, rotate latch to lock, push top up button again to close rear windows (pause and push again if rearwindows don't close first time..this just means that you latched manually a second off what the system expected. On the second push the computer sees that all is ok and allows the windows to close).
FYI - Since the factory latch hesitates slightly while building pressure, after doing this a few times you will find that you are able to latch and unlatch just as quickly.
First , please don't think I advocate poor maintenance. However, I do advocate non-safety related options that lower the cost of ownership. Keeping costs down simply keeps more XKR/XK8's on the road and these cars are too beautiful to let go.
"Semi-manual " is probably a more accurate description of what Dennis 07 is referring to here: XK8 Convertible Top, Manual Latch Conversion . Read carefully as he describes the opening /closing sequence well.
What I have done as it relates to the top is:
1. I removedthe top latch from hydraulic circuit. and
2. I lowered the pressure available to the remaining hydraulic rams so as to still allow mechanical raising/lowering without subjecting the hoses and ram o-rings to the significant pressure build up ofthe latching cycle. Also note that by using the pump to raise and lower the top I still gently exercise the motor and seals.
In many convertibles (triumph, MG, Mustang etc) the forward latch must be done manually. I placed a short Allen wrench stub in the hole on the header above the windshield. This keeps me from having to fish the factory Allen wrench through the hole each time. Using an 8mm wrench in my glove box, I can quite literally unlatch the top faster than I could the two latches on a Ford Mustang.
As for lowering system pressure, I suggest turning petcock (T-handle) on the side of the pump ever so slightly open. How much? Open just enough that if you stop holding the button mid-way up, the top will slowly lower back down due to gravity. Open the valve too much and you end up running the pump longer than necessary. Use your best judgment.. What you are doing by turning the petcock is allowing high pressure to bleed off. The latch sequence can exceed 1600pounds of pressure while only a couple hundred pounds are needed to raise the top. By removing the top latch hoses and opening the petcock slightly the remaining system should last a very long time.
My sequence is this:
TO OPEN - Key on, car in PARK, open latch with wrench (100 degree rotation clockwise), rear windows lower automatically, push top down button only until top is down, rotate wrench counter clockwise to stow the latch.
TO CLOSE - Key on, car in PARK, open latch fully, push topUP button, stop pushing once top is up and entering latch, rotate latch to lock, push top up button again to close rear windows (pause and push again if rearwindows don't close first time..this just means that you latched manually a second off what the system expected. On the second push the computer sees that all is ok and allows the windows to close).
FYI - Since the factory latch hesitates slightly while building pressure, after doing this a few times you will find that you are able to latch and unlatch just as quickly.
#23
03-29-2017, 06:22 AM
Veteran Member
First off, one would have to be completely wrong-headed to describe your work as "poor maintenance". I can't imagine any reasonable person suggesting this.
What you've done is sensible and well-thought-out. You don't need anyone else's approval for mods that are easily reversible, harmless, and fit your needs and budget.
As our cars decline in value, especially for owners who don't have the time, skills or funds (four figures if you can't DIY) to restore the latch's original hydraulic drive, a manual approach can be a good alternative. Let the mod police look elsewhere for something to grumble about.
What you've done is sensible and well-thought-out. You don't need anyone else's approval for mods that are easily reversible, harmless, and fit your needs and budget.
As our cars decline in value, especially for owners who don't have the time, skills or funds (four figures if you can't DIY) to restore the latch's original hydraulic drive, a manual approach can be a good alternative. Let the mod police look elsewhere for something to grumble about.
Last edited by Dennis07; 03-29-2017 at 06:44 AM.
#24
07-28-2023, 03:14 PM
Caps for top latch fittings.
The pump/motor is out AFAIK. I haven't really done any trouble shooting. When the top down button is pressed, it will chime, rear windows roll down, but nothing else happens. Pressing the top up button doesn't result in anything. I thought maybe it was out of sequence and I tried it a handful of times but couldn't get any of it to work. I had to pull the relays in the trunk and jump them to get the windows back up. I also checked the fluid level and it is fine.
Today I bought the caps to plug the hoses going to the latch. I figured if I did away with those hoses why not the rest? I'm not opposed to raising and lowering the top the way it was done back in the day.
That would make sense with the windows and seals, though I wonder how much it would really affect them. I can't get it to really budge with the top up. I thought I had seen someone post on the board a while back that they, too, were working the top by hand.
Today I bought the caps to plug the hoses going to the latch. I figured if I did away with those hoses why not the rest? I'm not opposed to raising and lowering the top the way it was done back in the day.
That would make sense with the windows and seals, though I wonder how much it would really affect them. I can't get it to really budge with the top up. I thought I had seen someone post on the board a while back that they, too, were working the top by hand.
#25
07-28-2023, 07:57 PM
Veteran Member
Last edited by Dennis07; 07-28-2023 at 08:05 PM.
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