A-Pillars and Header
#1
A-Pillars and Header
Hey, Folks -
Just completed replacing all the hydraulics on our '03 convertible. What fun!
In the process, I discovered that not only are the A-pillars losing their grip on the upholstery, but the header is in even worse shape. The fabric literally fell off and the backing is completely disintegrated. I've seen several posts and videos on redoing them and I'm not really afraid of tackling this task myself. But just wondering about the process.
May sound strange, but has anyone tried painting the three pieces rather than reupholstering? I've cleaned up the header, and will be doing likewise to the A-pillars. And if reupholstering, is it wise to coat them with paint before applying new fabric; not sure if that would affect the bonding of the contact cement.
Thanks!
Mickey
Just completed replacing all the hydraulics on our '03 convertible. What fun!
In the process, I discovered that not only are the A-pillars losing their grip on the upholstery, but the header is in even worse shape. The fabric literally fell off and the backing is completely disintegrated. I've seen several posts and videos on redoing them and I'm not really afraid of tackling this task myself. But just wondering about the process.
May sound strange, but has anyone tried painting the three pieces rather than reupholstering? I've cleaned up the header, and will be doing likewise to the A-pillars. And if reupholstering, is it wise to coat them with paint before applying new fabric; not sure if that would affect the bonding of the contact cement.
Thanks!
Mickey
#2
I reupholstered both A-pillar pieces in February 2012, just a week after we purchased the car. My wife picked out the matching fabric at the local auto interiors and tops shop I have been going to since the 1980s. I also purchased the spray can of the proper adhesive there, based upon the owner's recommendation. No issues with these pieces since although I do have enough leftover fabric to recover both pieces a second time if needed....
#3
I have just replaced A pillar and header material I didn’t paint anything before material replacement. I used high temperature spray adhesive. I also have enough material to do the job again if required. Personally I think it’s easier to replace like with like. There is always the chance any paint used will affect the adhesive.
#4
#5
I believe I used alcohol to clean the pieces after pulling the old fabric off of them, but that was almost 11 years ago and I cannot remember....
Your best bet for matching the fabric is to go to a long-time-in-business auto interiors and tops shop. It is my wife's car, she wanted to pick out the fabric herself, and I bet she looked at more than 100 different rolls before selecting about 10 rolls to carry outside to the car in order to select the perfect match. I'm sure Tommy (the owner of this shop for more than 40 years now) was glad after the purchase was made for me to finally haul her out of there....
Your best bet for matching the fabric is to go to a long-time-in-business auto interiors and tops shop. It is my wife's car, she wanted to pick out the fabric herself, and I bet she looked at more than 100 different rolls before selecting about 10 rolls to carry outside to the car in order to select the perfect match. I'm sure Tommy (the owner of this shop for more than 40 years now) was glad after the purchase was made for me to finally haul her out of there....
#6
I have redone them twice now. The first time I simply removed the existing material then cleaned and ironed it before reattaching with new adhesive. Details with pics can be found here.
The first restoration lasted several years but eventually was getting dirty and the Oatmeal never matched anything in the rest of the interior. So I went for the ultimate redo and found Sable leather to match the dash. Details of the second redo can be found here. The leather is the way to go if you have the ambition.
It looked so much better and would last the life of the car I think. Damn now I am missing this car. Need to go sit in the XJ-L for a bit.
The first restoration lasted several years but eventually was getting dirty and the Oatmeal never matched anything in the rest of the interior. So I went for the ultimate redo and found Sable leather to match the dash. Details of the second redo can be found here. The leather is the way to go if you have the ambition.
It looked so much better and would last the life of the car I think. Damn now I am missing this car. Need to go sit in the XJ-L for a bit.
Last edited by rothwell; 10-26-2022 at 09:25 PM.
#7
I believe I used alcohol to clean the pieces after pulling the old fabric off of them, but that was almost 11 years ago and I cannot remember....
Your best bet for matching the fabric is to go to a long-time-in-business auto interiors and tops shop. It is my wife's car, she wanted to pick out the fabric herself, and I bet she looked at more than 100 different rolls before selecting about 10 rolls to carry outside to the car in order to select the perfect match. I'm sure Tommy (the owner of this shop for more than 40 years now) was glad after the purchase was made for me to finally haul her out of there....
Your best bet for matching the fabric is to go to a long-time-in-business auto interiors and tops shop. It is my wife's car, she wanted to pick out the fabric herself, and I bet she looked at more than 100 different rolls before selecting about 10 rolls to carry outside to the car in order to select the perfect match. I'm sure Tommy (the owner of this shop for more than 40 years now) was glad after the purchase was made for me to finally haul her out of there....
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#8
I have redone them twice now. The first time I simply removed the existing material then cleaned and ironed it before reattaching with new adhesive. Details with pics can be found here.
The first restoration lasted several years but eventually was getting dirty and the Oatmeal never matched anything in the rest of the interior. So I went for the ultimate redo and found Sable leather to match the dash. Details of the second redo can be found here. The leather is the way to go if you have the ambition.
It looked so much better and would last the life of the car I think. Damn now I am missing this car. Need to go sit in the XJ-L for a bit.
The first restoration lasted several years but eventually was getting dirty and the Oatmeal never matched anything in the rest of the interior. So I went for the ultimate redo and found Sable leather to match the dash. Details of the second redo can be found here. The leather is the way to go if you have the ambition.
It looked so much better and would last the life of the car I think. Damn now I am missing this car. Need to go sit in the XJ-L for a bit.
#9
I happened onto this post today and have a question. When sitting in my 99 XK8 with the top up, I have run my hand over areas that look stained. When I do so, it rains fine particles of fabric lent. I used our vacuum cleaner once to try to remove some.
Question(s): Is this just signs of the convertible liner wearing out? Is this normal for a 23 year old top? The outside fabric on the top seems in very good condition. Do I just need to use a stronger car wash vacuum?
Question(s): Is this just signs of the convertible liner wearing out? Is this normal for a 23 year old top? The outside fabric on the top seems in very good condition. Do I just need to use a stronger car wash vacuum?
#10
Those stains are essentially the factory glue holding the fabric in place breaking down and flaking off. You can keep cleaning it (some use brake cleaner as a solvent and have reported that it works well), or you can bite the bullet and replace it (which is a very big job to do correctly)....
#12
Age combined with heat (and probably not the best choice of glue on the factory assembly line). Most of the early convertibles eventually do what you are seeing on your interior top. I am hoping that by the time my wife's 2006 XK8 Victory Edition convertible was built (in May 2005, the final month of production for these cars), Jaguar had switched to a more robust glue. Time will tell....
The exterior top material is very durable and tends to hold up much better, especially with an annual treatment of Sunbrella 303 or something similar...
The exterior top material is very durable and tends to hold up much better, especially with an annual treatment of Sunbrella 303 or something similar...
#13
I happened onto this post today and have a question. When sitting in my 99 XK8 with the top up, I have run my hand over areas that look stained. When I do so, it rains fine particles of fabric lent. I used our vacuum cleaner once to try to remove some.
Question(s): Is this just signs of the convertible liner wearing out? Is this normal for a 23 year old top? The outside fabric on the top seems in very good condition. Do I just need to use a stronger car wash vacuum?
Question(s): Is this just signs of the convertible liner wearing out? Is this normal for a 23 year old top? The outside fabric on the top seems in very good condition. Do I just need to use a stronger car wash vacuum?
#14
FWIW
I recovered mine,July 2022. These are my personal notes as my memory is not that good:
Take existing photos if necessary
overthick matl 3/16" standard is 1/8" (watch for grain direction if necessary)
use pool table to square up cloth, straight edge, perm marker, tri square
(2) Pillars 8" X 24"
(1) Header 13" X 60" (54" min width)
-- mag tray for hdwe
Rmv pillar covers with large screwdriver at 3 white dots on backside blk rubber weatherstrips(my cheat marks). My Passenger side sensor post is broken, be careful and elec conn , remove 1 sensor screw, washer only.
Rmv Header pull ovhd console straight down(old plastic brkt may break)---visors first small flat blade for screw covers (make sure the two overhead conn are in their holders before reassy)
rmv visor elec receptacles-use straight pick to unhinge scr covers, rmv scr each side.
pull header straight down at receptacles just far enough to disconnect visor elec conns
Remove old cloth
Rub off old foam by hand,or scrape
wet 25 sq in area / laquer thinner (work in small areas)
scrape glue while wet with knife blade--discard residue on blade
wipe with laquer thinner soaked rag
Use 3M headliner spray (do not 3M 77 or old spray
Try to avoid and watch out for possible adhesive strings wrapping around onto finished side (use fine sewing needle to pick off)
Do pillars first (know adhesive tack time)
lay cloth face down on clean surface
place pillar cover face up centered on cloth
spray cover only (min overspray may be on foam)
lay aside cover and spray the foam side of the cloth
(do not be concerned with wrap around at this time)
Pat cloth from center out (do not poke with finger)
cut margins and cut form darts (stop dart cuts before edge 1/8"-3/16")
spray (brush) wrap around (do not concentrate force on face side(ie finger poke))
Header
Mark centerline on foam side of fabric
remark ctrline of header if necessary
place header face up on covered sawhorses
center fabric atop header-foam side down
fold left side of matl back on right side being careful to keep location
spray left side of header (top face only--not side wraps yet)
spray mating foam
Do right side similarly
starting at ctr line, glue rear (top latch side)side wraps later
then in turn do front side wraps
cut margins and cut triangular form darts (stop dart cuts before edge 1/8"-3/16")
spray (brush) wrap around (do not concentrate force on face side(ie one fingertip))
use straight pick thru ctr all holes, 2 slots
use x-acto knive blade to cut "X" in holes slots
fully cut out airbag sensor hole
I recovered mine,July 2022. These are my personal notes as my memory is not that good:
Take existing photos if necessary
overthick matl 3/16" standard is 1/8" (watch for grain direction if necessary)
use pool table to square up cloth, straight edge, perm marker, tri square
(2) Pillars 8" X 24"
(1) Header 13" X 60" (54" min width)
-- mag tray for hdwe
Rmv pillar covers with large screwdriver at 3 white dots on backside blk rubber weatherstrips(my cheat marks). My Passenger side sensor post is broken, be careful and elec conn , remove 1 sensor screw, washer only.
Rmv Header pull ovhd console straight down(old plastic brkt may break)---visors first small flat blade for screw covers (make sure the two overhead conn are in their holders before reassy)
rmv visor elec receptacles-use straight pick to unhinge scr covers, rmv scr each side.
pull header straight down at receptacles just far enough to disconnect visor elec conns
Remove old cloth
Rub off old foam by hand,or scrape
wet 25 sq in area / laquer thinner (work in small areas)
scrape glue while wet with knife blade--discard residue on blade
wipe with laquer thinner soaked rag
Use 3M headliner spray (do not 3M 77 or old spray
Try to avoid and watch out for possible adhesive strings wrapping around onto finished side (use fine sewing needle to pick off)
Do pillars first (know adhesive tack time)
lay cloth face down on clean surface
place pillar cover face up centered on cloth
spray cover only (min overspray may be on foam)
lay aside cover and spray the foam side of the cloth
(do not be concerned with wrap around at this time)
Pat cloth from center out (do not poke with finger)
cut margins and cut form darts (stop dart cuts before edge 1/8"-3/16")
spray (brush) wrap around (do not concentrate force on face side(ie finger poke))
Header
Mark centerline on foam side of fabric
remark ctrline of header if necessary
place header face up on covered sawhorses
center fabric atop header-foam side down
fold left side of matl back on right side being careful to keep location
spray left side of header (top face only--not side wraps yet)
spray mating foam
Do right side similarly
starting at ctr line, glue rear (top latch side)side wraps later
then in turn do front side wraps
cut margins and cut triangular form darts (stop dart cuts before edge 1/8"-3/16")
spray (brush) wrap around (do not concentrate force on face side(ie one fingertip))
use straight pick thru ctr all holes, 2 slots
use x-acto knive blade to cut "X" in holes slots
fully cut out airbag sensor hole
#16
Got everything back in place, but found that the smaller clip of the three on the overhead console is broken and it won't lock in place. Have checked several sources, but all say it's no longer available. I've been to hardware stores, checked online sources, but can't seem to find one small enough. Has anyone found one that will work? Or does someone have a spare?
Thanks,
Mickey
Thanks,
Mickey
#17
Sorry to hear about your broken clip I have one too. I could not find one anywhere. Although an obscure fix to give my overhead console a solid attachment I remanufactured the plastic bracket that holds the overhead console to the header rail in 18 SWG steel. I found this gave a stable base using just the two forward clips. The rear clip is now superfluous for me. The over head console kept coming loose before I completed this modification.
#18
Sorry to hear about your broken clip I have one too. I could not find one anywhere. Although an obscure fix to give my overhead console a solid attachment I remanufactured the plastic bracket that holds the overhead console to the header rail in 18 SWG steel. I found this gave a stable base using just the two forward clips. The rear clip is now superfluous for me. The over head console kept coming loose before I completed this modification.
I have to believe there's a spring clip available SOMEWHERE. Or maybe an alternative. I've considered slipping a bit of small diameter hose over the plastic tab to increase its size enough to hold it in its slot. As it is right now the front two clips are holding the console in place, so it shouldn't be an impossible task.
#19
Found 'em (I think...)! Looks like these will fit, in case anyone else is looking:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26587858606...RoC_L8QAvD_BwE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26587858606...RoC_L8QAvD_BwE
Last edited by MickeyR; 11-06-2022 at 07:30 AM.