Hi All

My car was running fine and was parked up at home 2-3 months ago and not used since other than to start the engine occasionally and let it come up to temp.
The battery is a year old and I have put it on charge regularly in the time it's been parked.

Today I got in and started, there was nothing but a "Er" on the climate display and lots of beeps.
The engine did start and sounded fine, so I let it run for 10 mins to bring it up to temp. When I noticed there is no display on the temp gauge, in fact no gauges. Rev counter etc too.
I scanned for errors and all I get is P1638.

Can anybody advise? Nothing has changed, in that nothing has been unplugged, nothing removed from the dash or instrument cluster.

I notice when dipping the accelerator there is a slight hesitancy in response, but it does rev, just an initial blip of nothing.

I have done a reset with the battery leads.

Any advice is welcome.
Thanks in advance.
James

 

Start with the basics and report:

1. What is your batter voltage with all things off/shutdown? What is the voltage while running?
2. Start with the simple/cheap items first. Have you checked fuses for gauges/instruments?
3. When you reset the battery, are the leads on snug?
4. Did you follow the proper procedure takeoff: - terminal off first, then positive, and when putting on, + first, then -?

 

Thanks, answers are:
1. 11.96v with the ignition in pos 2 no engine start, no measured while running, but as it has a brand new Denso alt it is probably in excess of 13.8v.
2. Cluster removed. Both multiplugs were checked. No bad solder joints as per Jag bulletin 413-S484. Sprayed electrical switch cleaner into plugs and sockets. The voltage on fuse f14 and F18 while in pos 2 is 11.96v.
3. Battery is not reset, the capacitive charge held in the modules is reset by connecting the 2 battery leads together while the battery is disconnected. Shorted together for 10 minutes with a secure clamp.
4. Having 35+ years of professional electronics experience I always take the negative off first, then positive. Wen reconnecting Positive then negative.

It's looking like a CAN token fault caused by a fault that has magically developed in the cluster.
If I plug in my Bluetooth OBDII I get rev and temp readings in Torque, so I am sure it's not the ECU, plus the engine runs.

Thanks again.

 

No other advice?

Nobody else seen these symptoms? :-(

 

Have you tried clearing the fault code and see if it comes back? If it does this document has a fault finding procedure, but it suggests the Instrument Cluster is faulty:-

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...ns-network.pdf

 

To my knowledge, the CAN bus needs termination, 2 separate 120 Ohm, one in the ABS unit and one in the IC, for a net 60 Ohm. You should be able to verify that at the diagnostic port as well as at the IC CAN pins. This is all documented in the electrical guide (check jagrepair.com).

OBDII operates on the ISO-9141 bus, which seems to be working.

 

The connections around the J-gate module can sometimes give trouble, and it sits on the CAN between the ECM and IP. The termination checks as mentioned by fmertz should show if there's an issue there.

 

Thanks for your input. I will get investigating more.

One thing to note is that a week or so before this happened some damp crept inside, possibly driver side door seal. Nothing is actually we (carpets dry) but the windscreen fogged over and wet from condensation. When we took the driver-side fuse box cover off the inside of the cover was quite wet with condensation. The fuses look to be dry.
I have left a couple of moisture absorbers in there at the moment.

Maybe it is related and the IC is not actually at fault.

Update in the next day or 2.
Thanks

 

Something else I have just noted also.

When the Er and beeping starts, the red lights on both the oil pressure gauge and the voltage gauge both come on. The stay on and do not go off even removing the key. I have to disconnect the battery to get them off. Re-connect battery and they stay off until the key is turned to Pos 2 again.
All other lights on the IC come on but go off again when the key is turned back and removed.

Thanks

 

The 'minor instrument pack' is driven by the IP, so I wouldn't be too concerned as the IP isn't entirely happy at the moment.

 

At this point, I find an issue.
S4 : CHECK THE CAN NETWORK FOR SHORT CIRCUIT 1. Measure the resistance between DLC, pins 06 (Y) and 14 (G). •Is the resistance less than 180 ohms?
The answer is no, it's an open circuit.

I will continue with the fault-finding, but running out of time as the car needs to be moved due to moving home.
Is it possible to undo the torx by the J gate and put it into gear to put on a trailer?

Thanks
James

 

I can't think of any reason why not.

Have you far to travel?

 

Following. I’m having a similar problem. The car was sitting for 3 months and the battery went flat (new battery last spring). Recharged the battery, car starts fine but will not go into gear and I have no gauges, warning lights, etc. I’ve tried the reset procedures with no result.

 

The order of removal of the battery leads ie Neg first is only a safety issue. If you do positive first and the spanner touches the chassis you will have a bad short and a red hot spanner. Spannering the negative and your spanner touching the chassis is not a problem. Once the neg is off there is no safety issue when you undo the positive.

 

Just a thought...

In the jam of both doors is a plastic threaded connector that brings info into and out of both doors. I believe there is CAN information carried thru this connector. I have had problems with water infiltration in both sides with this connector, opened it to find not only water but significant corrosion. Cleaned up the issue then locked it back in and wrapped both sides with self vulcanizing tape. Solved the water problem.

 

Interesting. Thanks, I will check that out.

 

If you fix it please feel free to update this thread with the progress etc. I have tried another fully charged battery and it fails the same. I am sure my problem is due to damp/moisture.
Thanks

 

The car was put on a trailer and moved about 25 miles. Seemed to be fine starting and driving on and off the trailer. Also drove it up to the top of the driveway about 30-40 yards.

More updates soon.

 

Remember, the XK8/XKR is an 'Electric' vehicle. I swapped all original gauges(Really just 'Idiot lights') to Real Gauge, direct reading gauges. Gives a real readout as to what is happening with your 'Baby'.

 

Quick update on this one.
The car has sat up since I moved home.
Situation has been the same, it starts but no life on the instrument cluster.

I removed the instrument cluster most of this time and have had it in the house next to some dry heat (several weeks).
Also had the car with an electric fan heater in it off and on for short periods.

Reinstalled the instrument cluster and it hesitated and fired up, moments later the instrument cluster sprang to life too. So at the moment that "seems to be ok/fixed" and it does look to have been a problem due to dampness and condensation.

One odd thing is I am still getting the beeps and the Er message on the HVAC unit, maybe that needs removing and drying out too........
Thanks
James