Please help xk100 hood problems
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Hi Jim, Do you know what the correct readings should be ?
They all seem to function correctly to drop the hood as well which is strange
And do you know of the hose schematic? I have tried swapping latch hoses with no effect and I would have thought ram hoses are in the correct locations or it wouldnt retract?
They all seem to function correctly to drop the hood as well which is strange
And do you know of the hose schematic? I have tried swapping latch hoses with no effect and I would have thought ram hoses are in the correct locations or it wouldnt retract?
#29
You should be looking at 0.1 - 0.2 ohms for a closed switch and obviously infinity for an open one. Always best to test when disconnected from the rest of the circuit that way your readings will not be influenced by any electronic components.
You should be able to get a schematic from jagrepair.com and plenty of other info.
You should be able to get a schematic from jagrepair.com and plenty of other info.
#31
Take a look at that TSB and it will show you the open and close of all the switches. However you can test the switches from the plug in the header but you will need to pull the visors and liner from the header. Note that you have 2 white plugs that can easily be mixed up so the one to the left is for the switches in the header and the one to the right is for the center light. I hope that the person changing the hoses did not mix them up..
#32
Hi Gus,
That TSB you refer to is pretty much what I have been working from combined with the info on your site, thats how I came to the conclusion that when latch closed switch goes to open circuit, that is the point where power is cut. Which is then what led me to believe the SLCM is misinterpreting the signal somehow.
And in reference to the hoses, I would have thought by swapping them I have done all the checks I can on them ?
Thanks
That TSB you refer to is pretty much what I have been working from combined with the info on your site, thats how I came to the conclusion that when latch closed switch goes to open circuit, that is the point where power is cut. Which is then what led me to believe the SLCM is misinterpreting the signal somehow.
And in reference to the hoses, I would have thought by swapping them I have done all the checks I can on them ?
Thanks
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The fact that the roof will open properly and the latch parks leads me to believe that the switches are working properly in the header. The quarter windows lowering tells me that the top switch in the ram is working and the latch would not open if the bottom ram switch was not working. However, I do not know if the instrument pack is indicating the wrong speed of the car preventing it from closing. At the moment I do not have an answer on how that operates.
Give me a little time on this.
Give me a little time on this.
#37
First verify the latch hydraulic hoses are connected as below:
Top [uppermost] hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to LH fitting at Latch Cylinder [nearest to “A” pillar] in header assembly.
Bottom hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to RH fitting at Latch Cylinder.
[This hose should be marked with an “F” or a circled “F” for identification at each end]
*** Small paint dot instead of “F” noted – 2/25/09***
If those are correct, lower the roof lights and disconnect the white connector that goes to the latch microswitches. With that disconnected, see if the hood will power up and down correctly with the switch. Forget the latch and claw at this point, all we want to know is will the hydraulics move the top both ways while the switches are disconnected.
Report the results.
Unfortunately, I will be traveling this week so my responses may be spotty, but your results will give us a direction.
Cheers,
Top [uppermost] hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to LH fitting at Latch Cylinder [nearest to “A” pillar] in header assembly.
Bottom hose at Hydraulic Pump connects to RH fitting at Latch Cylinder.
[This hose should be marked with an “F” or a circled “F” for identification at each end]
*** Small paint dot instead of “F” noted – 2/25/09***
If those are correct, lower the roof lights and disconnect the white connector that goes to the latch microswitches. With that disconnected, see if the hood will power up and down correctly with the switch. Forget the latch and claw at this point, all we want to know is will the hydraulics move the top both ways while the switches are disconnected.
Report the results.
Unfortunately, I will be traveling this week so my responses may be spotty, but your results will give us a direction.
Cheers,
Last edited by xjrguy; 08-24-2016 at 11:02 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by xjrguy:
Gus (08-24-2016),
jamesholder247 (08-25-2016)
#38
Hello Steve,
Firstly, thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.
The hoses, I have followed as you suggest and identified they are definitely in the correct positions as you say, so I think we can eliminate them.
Onto the next tests
After undoing the white plug on the header that you suggested, I manually unlatched the hood with the petcock open and pushed it up slightly by hand so it was just clear of the catch. I then closed the petcock, started the car and pushed the hood down button, everything acted as it should do, the hood went down the latch retract and the front windows stepped themselves back up slightly to the fully up position when the hood was down.
When I then tried to put it up, there was a click sound, nothing moved and it said hood not latched on the display.
Thanks again for your help
James
Firstly, thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.
The hoses, I have followed as you suggest and identified they are definitely in the correct positions as you say, so I think we can eliminate them.
Onto the next tests
After undoing the white plug on the header that you suggested, I manually unlatched the hood with the petcock open and pushed it up slightly by hand so it was just clear of the catch. I then closed the petcock, started the car and pushed the hood down button, everything acted as it should do, the hood went down the latch retract and the front windows stepped themselves back up slightly to the fully up position when the hood was down.
When I then tried to put it up, there was a click sound, nothing moved and it said hood not latched on the display.
Thanks again for your help
James
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